What are those bulk skeet shells good for?
- Thread starter John A.
- Start date
Greg B
.410
Tried casting a few slugs today. This is the first time I've cast anything, so obviously results aren't the greatest.
But without further ado:
Looking at my attempts, and recalling what has been written before, I can see where I was having problems.
Mold too cold, lead too hot, mold too hot, etc. It's a lot to keep track of for a first timer. But I'll get there.
Sometime while pouring, my pot developed the dreaded drip, and I think screwing around with that kind of kept me from getting a rhythm going.
Another question, if I may, got a bit of lead stuck to the center pin of my mold.
What is the best way to remove it? or do I need a new one?
But without further ado:
Looking at my attempts, and recalling what has been written before, I can see where I was having problems.
Mold too cold, lead too hot, mold too hot, etc. It's a lot to keep track of for a first timer. But I'll get there.
Sometime while pouring, my pot developed the dreaded drip, and I think screwing around with that kind of kept me from getting a rhythm going.
Another question, if I may, got a bit of lead stuck to the center pin of my mold.
What is the best way to remove it? or do I need a new one?
Last edited:
I'm not sure what you're talking about the center pin. But if there is some excess lead that's preventing you from using it, just remember that lead melts at about 600 degree's Fahrenheit.
Your castings look really good. I can tell from the shine of a few of them that the temp was off, but they'll still shoot just fine, so don't throw them back in the pot or anything.
That's just one of the things and is part of the learning curve. Nobody is born knowing how to do this stuff, and I would say that yours were better than my first ones for sure.
Well done.
The pot drip is from the stopper in the handle not going all the way down on the spout on the inside, probably from some slag or some other impurity. I've used a long paperclip bent in an L shape and push it up inside of the spout while it's hot and that will dislodge any contaminent floating around in there that will let it close.
But you do need to be aware that it's hot and not to let it get on you while you're doing it, but I don't think you need me or anyone else to tell you that.
Your castings look really good. I can tell from the shine of a few of them that the temp was off, but they'll still shoot just fine, so don't throw them back in the pot or anything.
That's just one of the things and is part of the learning curve. Nobody is born knowing how to do this stuff, and I would say that yours were better than my first ones for sure.
Well done.
The pot drip is from the stopper in the handle not going all the way down on the spout on the inside, probably from some slag or some other impurity. I've used a long paperclip bent in an L shape and push it up inside of the spout while it's hot and that will dislodge any contaminent floating around in there that will let it close.
But you do need to be aware that it's hot and not to let it get on you while you're doing it, but I don't think you need me or anyone else to tell you that.
Greg B
.410
Ordered some 1/8 & 1/4 20ga felt wads. The 1/4 was too thick. The 1/8 seems to be a perfect thickness under the slug for the star crimp.
However, I noticed where the crimp starts to fold over is kind of lumpy, and tends to hang up a bit when loading into the magazine tube on my JM Pro.
I'm not sure if the lumpy area is causing the binding, or if the shell is getting wedged up on the magazine follower. The shell seems to have no problem loading into the chamber.
I think I need to slightly taper crimp the end of the shell as a separate step after star crimping to smooth it out.
However, I noticed where the crimp starts to fold over is kind of lumpy, and tends to hang up a bit when loading into the magazine tube on my JM Pro.
I'm not sure if the lumpy area is causing the binding, or if the shell is getting wedged up on the magazine follower. The shell seems to have no problem loading into the chamber.
I think I need to slightly taper crimp the end of the shell as a separate step after star crimping to smooth it out.
In my short experience of reloading shells, if there is too much space taken up in the hull, the crimp will try to open back up.
But, at the same time, I don't really know what the hulls look like after prying them open.
But, at the same time, I don't really know what the hulls look like after prying them open.
Malagamarksman
.270 WIN
For your first attempt I have got to say they look SUPERB.
I really would not worry about them looking perfect. When the mould and or the molten lead is too cool you will get a wrinkly finish. If the mould and or molten lead is too hot you will get a frosted kind of finish on the slug.
We are not talking about casting match handgun bullets here. Wrinkly or frosty you will find it it won't make a jot of difference to the slug's accuracy, they will perform just fine.
I really would not worry about them looking perfect. When the mould and or the molten lead is too cool you will get a wrinkly finish. If the mould and or molten lead is too hot you will get a frosted kind of finish on the slug.
We are not talking about casting match handgun bullets here. Wrinkly or frosty you will find it it won't make a jot of difference to the slug's accuracy, they will perform just fine.
I have seen so much worse, those about as good as it gets for a slug, the rest it cosmetic, might be a touch on the hot side
Greg B
.410
All credit should go to all of you whom have put this info out there. It really helped me be aware of what was happening as I was making the slugs. And mostly react accordingly.
Photo of the first shell I assembled, next to a factory birdshot load. And per Malagamarksman, I wrote "slug" all over it.
You can see my crimp is not quite what I'd like it to be. I think maybe the slug should be just a touch higher in the shot cup. Perhaps a .025 cardboard shim would be just about perfect.
I also think I kinda loosened up the powder charge by shaking the shell to get the slug out while trying to determine proper payload height. I can hear the powder shaking around in there under the shot cup.
Photo of the first shell I assembled, next to a factory birdshot load. And per Malagamarksman, I wrote "slug" all over it.
You can see my crimp is not quite what I'd like it to be. I think maybe the slug should be just a touch higher in the shot cup. Perhaps a .025 cardboard shim would be just about perfect.
I also think I kinda loosened up the powder charge by shaking the shell to get the slug out while trying to determine proper payload height. I can hear the powder shaking around in there under the shot cup.
Blood_Trail
.270 WIN
If your was column is too short, try using bulkier powder or a nitro card under your slug. You should be doing that anyway for a more solid base.
Have you tried roll crimping? I've been reloading Lee Key slugs for a while. I roll crimp most of mine. I recently bought a hammerhead slug mold. They fit in SPW sabots made by SlugsRus. Accuracy has been super even with slower burning magnum powders.
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Have you tried roll crimping? I've been reloading Lee Key slugs for a while. I roll crimp most of mine. I recently bought a hammerhead slug mold. They fit in SPW sabots made by SlugsRus. Accuracy has been super even with slower burning magnum powders.
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Greg B
.410
I'm not messing the powder or wad. As John A. noted early on, I'm just dumping the shot, turning it into a slug, and stuffing it back into the shell.
What I did do, trying to adjust payload height, was punch some 5/8" diameter x .020 cardboard discs. I put those under the 1/8" 20ga felt wad under the slug.
I made up a couple each with 1,2 or 3 cardboard discs under the felt. And I'll see how those work next time I get to the range.
I have ordered a roll crimp from BPI, and am planning on giving that a go sometime in the future.
Blood_Trail
.270 WIN
BPI sells nitro cards pretty darn cheap. That would keep u from punching ur own.
You using a smooth or rifled barrel?
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You using a smooth or rifled barrel?
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Greg B
.410
I ordered some 20ga overshot cards from BPI also. Am planning on using them spacers so o don't have to punch them myself.
I just have the standard 24" smoothie that my JM came with.
Doc McGlock
.22LR
After 24 pages, I'm still confused. Why do you need nitro cards? To adjust the height of the slug and make it more secure in the hull? I'm hoping to remove the shot, melt, cast a slug and then return to hull and crimp.
Why the extra steps?
Why the extra steps?