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AR-15 and Variants

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if your not too stuck up this scope will shoot with most of them but it has a better reticle than all of them.....the reticle is based off Primary Arms engineer Dimiti's ACSS . The ACSS was bought by and now is being put in a model of Trijicons ACOG.
http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-...56-reticle/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-acss-hud-dmr-5.56/


what you give up with this scope is low light capability and a life time warrantee. The scope wont detract from it , it just wont add to it. They are not real light gatherers......however the glass is clear as a bell , magnification true, adjustments positive, durability .....

this is a first focal plane scope. Meaning the reticle magnifies when you twist it up. This biggest benefit to the FFP is the zero remains the same at all magnifications. With a second focal scope you are really only dead on at the magnification you zeroed at. So at the same yards your POI will shift with only magnification changes
Running this one on my 308 bolt gun. Very happy
 
With the 6~9x I really start noticing the need for FFP. At 4x, it's there but not so much it becomes a nuisance. At 9x it seems to.
it will shine on that 14x

There is a genius to having them in 4x and 6x variable scopes.

The genius is in the reticle.

A BDC reticle with a horse shoe dot and a drop tree.

HOWEVER with FFP the tree is invisible to the eye almost, looks like a faint line....less than a hair

Therefor you can have closer to red dot performance due to the glass being less cluttered with the tree and ranging tig if equipped.

as you need to go further in distance, you dial in magnification brining the tree big enough to utilize at distance, at the same time magnifying the horseshoe big enough that it is now out of the picture.......and you are zero through the entire magnification range......so there is a place on low power variable for them
 
Hmmmm, makes sense, but I'd really have to spend some time with one before dropping that kind of money on one. And I stand corrected, my buddy has the PA 1-6 SFP scope. The PA 1-8 FFP jumps to $1300.
 
Hmmmm, makes sense, but I'd really have to spend some time with one before dropping that kind of money on one. And I stand corrected, my buddy has the PA 1-6 SFP scope. The PA 1-8 FFP jumps to $1300.
I have the 1-6, only down sides are not great at light gathering and it is heavy
The 1300 dollar 1-8 surpasses Vortex per price point and matches the warrantee. They are coming from Japan with the best Japanese glass from one of the top Japanese factories.
That may sound cheesy to some but those that know.....the glass is as good as 95% of American companies ......yes the top dollar companies.

Japan is no China by no means, some who's opinions matter believe the Japanese top shelf stuff is as good as our top shelf stuff . Your seeing almost Swarovski level glass for a fraction of the price
 
And that's what keeps me coming back to the SWFA, Japanese glass and build quality. But I have to admit, I just watched a video of the 300blk specific 1-6 going over the chevron reticle, and it's pretty bad ass. I already have my mount, so I don't have to worry about that. The extra cash would pay for some of my reloading gear, dammit I hate these decisions.
 
. . . Your seeing almost Swarovski level glass for a fraction of the price

I've never held a Swarovski, but I was very impressed with the glass in that Nixon Prostaff and Viper vortex I have tried.

I've owned Japanese cameras forever, and the lenses have always been good, so I would worry far more about the mechanicals myself.

I start the grandkids off with the Chinese Tasco, then the Simmons, the Bushnell, then finally the Leupold; and they really appreciate the difference at each step.

I started with the 4x All-Pro 15mm, but I won't inflict that on them.

allpro.jpg
 
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Official range report:

I ran another sixty rounds through the AR 15 today, and it ran very well but I did have one serious problem.

When I slapped my new plastic HexMag magazine into place, I rounded off the lug that stops IT from going into the receiver too far.

So when I cycled the bolt it jammed into that plastic magazine and hung the action.

The bolt wouldn't let the mag drop and the mag would let the bolt cycle.

We had to split the gun in half to get it to release, then the bolt shot home and the magazine came out easily.

It was easy to see where the stop was rounded off, and where the bolt had gouged into the back of the plastic magazine.

So no more disposable plastic magazines for me! o_O

Oh by the way I did spend that money, but I bought a Leupold scope for my .30-30 instead of the Primary Arms for the AR.

I really like the scope I have on the AR now, if it were only more powerful. I do plan to buy that Primary Arms scope.

I like everything about it so much that the fact that it's not Leupold is no longer important.
 
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Thanks bud

Maybe I just smacked it in too hard.

Watching too many war movies...
 
Just FYI, I've never had that issue with Magpul...

I heard they make good stuff, but I didn't know their magazines were plastic.

That being said, there's good plastic and bad plastic. There's good design and bad design.

The design of the hexmag reminds me of an inexpensive toy. You don't need to save weight on something this small. A loaded magazine is all about bullet weight.

The designers of the hexmag were trying to save plastic because it's expensive.

You save labor by molding plastic magazines instead of making them from Steel. It's a lazy way to make a magazine. The material costs more but by comparison you do no work.

All the work is in making the molds and the molding machine.

But except for the spring, they won't corrode, or cause a galvanic reaction with the ammunition.

That can be a big deal in bad environments.
 
Just FYI, I've never had that issue with Magpul...

I have.

Multiple times.

I had one 20 rounder that I had to sand the sides down because after keeping it loaded for an extended period of time, the body swelled enough that I had to sand the sides of the mags some so they would drop free.

And most recently, with the blackout.

After loading 29 rounds, the follower was hanging which caused the bullets to be seated from the tension, but mostly loose and could be shaken out of the top simply by holding it upside down and shaking it real hard. Worked fine when I was testing it because I was only loading up to 10 rounds at a time in it. But when I got it home and loaded up a mag to keep at the ready, was a no-go.

I like their anti-tilt followers, but in metal magazines. I'm not a big of a fan of their magazines honestly even though I used to be.

I'm not a big fan of any plastic magazine much these days. I've had too many positive experiences with good metal mags like D&H. Colts, etc. and more bad experiences with plastic mags like magpul, Israeli orlites, zytel Mac mags, etc.
 
Yes, unless I moved to the tropics or a swamp, there will be no more $14 plastic magazines for me.

20160320_112507-1.jpg

Bye bye Hexmag.
 
By the way, my Atlas clone bipod stayed clamped very well to the Weaver rail but the Weaver rail did not stay very tight on my fore guard.

I'll put some Loctite on it this time and see what happens but it may be the plastic giving out a little bit. I'll probably need a bigger back up plate.
 
I took some close-up photos of the damage to the hexmag.

this is where the bolt hit the top of the magazine
hmag-1.jpg

This is the stop that rounded off.hexmag8.jpg
 
wonder why you couldn't just pull back on the charging handle to release the pressure on the bolt , releasing pressure on the mag ?

I know this happens when the bolt is on the catch and the mag is smacked way to hard or the rifle is dropped

The proper way to load is push/ pull. Keep a tight grip on the mag push till audible click, pull to make sure it is in....overly easy on a bolt that is open, not so easy with some mags loaded with 30 on a closed bolt

the only reason to ever smack an AR mag is when you are running through a malfunction .....only reason it is acceptable is either that the bolt will always be in the way or there will be an obstruction of cartridges not allowing the mag to be shoved up.

but since you just built it and not knowing what kind of force was applied I would look at it to make sure you mag release tension is OK and all is well with the catch surface itself....not the mags fault really , it happens in the military all the time with metal mags , operator error ......both the rifle and the camera
 
and how did you break the rifle in half ?.......BCG stuck behind the mag would prevent the rifle from take down

and how did the BCG slam home if the rifle was "broke in half"....no buffer spring pushing on the BCG when the rifle taken down

really curious how this went down because I like learning about these and you situation sound unique
 
You could pop both takedown pins together separate the halves, and then launch the bcg when it comes apart
 
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