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AR-15 and Variants

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Franklin also has a "binary" trigger.

But I like the fostech a lot better.

I like the internal design.

 
Yes it does require a special technique.

Pull

Release

Pull

Release

reload

Pull

Release
 
What can I say.... what started as a "simple" carbine light enough for my wife to feel comfortable with... took a life of it's own. While the paint job is "tacticool" everything was built with weight in mind. I coulda dropped a few more ounces had I gone with a pencil barrel, but I had this chromed FN Gov't profile barrel from PSA and it's a good shooter... why change it! SLR solo ultra light rail is sweet... super light and no picatinny other than for the front sight. With the hefty Elzetta she come in at 6lbs 10oz unloaded.... not the lightest ever, but certainly good enough!
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Parts include...

Upper:
PSA blemished
PSA marked 16" FN chrome lined barrel 1/7 twist (good ole A2 out front)
SLR 12" solo light M-Lok rail
BCM BCG
Standard parts and charging handle
Some magpul mlok rail covers

Lower:
Anderson stripper lower
Mil-spec parts kit
MFT Minimalist stock
ALG ACT trigger

Optics:
Aimpoint T2 Micro
Magpul BIUS
 
What I can find on the M&P 15 Sport is that the buffer tube is mil spec. So should be an easy swap.

I'd still wait for the more knowledgable guys to come along and offer more experienced advice.
 
LaloCurax got this one. Just an A2 receiver extension, buffer and spring.

I'm personally more fond of the Ace Skeleton stock myself for several reasons, but the magpul isn't too bad of a concept. Just that the magpul doesn't have "the look" that I'm used to seeing.
 
A carbine length gas port will function just fine with a rifle stock.

Softer and more enjoyable shooting too.

They're better that way than midlengths are.
 
Well my AR screwed up on me today at the range. The bolt release button jammed up and would not engage or release. I managed to pry it up with a pick and keep shooting.

But I'm tearing it apart now and I find the little roll pin that holds that bit in place was jammed in and smashed over. I'm having a problem getting it out so I can clean the button and spring assembly.

I've already bent my .090 drift.

I've made a hard pin from a broken drill bit and I'm going to try and punch it through with that.
 
After making a pin to drive the roll pin out, and then making another pin to get that pin out, I finally got the the bolt release off, and I found it to be bent.
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I straightened it out and I want to put it back in with another pin and see how things go.

This thing appears to be Die Cast alloy and it's wimpy. I'm wondering now if someone makes a Billet steel model?
 
Well, amazingly, I straightened out that latch without breaking, it and put it all back together, and it works.

Not only does it work, but it works better than it has ever worked!

All of this which leads me to believe that the thing was a little bit bent from day one and I just bent it worse.

The guy that put this gun together clearly had trouble getting that pin in place and after doing it myself I can see why. There's not much clearance to hit it in, and I had to make a special bent drift to access it properly.
 
Thanks John. Didn't want to end with a issue.
you still might, all depends on your gas supply.
You can have a carbine gas system under gassed or just properly gassed not move a rifle buffer far enough to shuck a round. A rifle buffer(5.1oz)is heavier than the standard Carbine buffer(3.0oz). A carbine gas system done right is designed to move a 3 ounce buffer
You might get lucky, most barrels are coming over gassed. If you are too over gassed and want to slow down the BCG and you have a rifle buffer system, you will need to rebuild the rifle buffer yourself or use an adjustable gas block or gas key.
If you want to slow down the BCG and you have a carbine buffer system you have a couple heavier choices before you have to rebuild....H3 is a tad heavier than a rifle buffer and a 9mm buffer is heavier yet......then you have all the B5 system buffers and tubes
 
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