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AK trigger too light?

dieselmudder

dieselmudder

.30-06
Elite Member
"Philanthropist"
Took the DDI out today with a new optic, to sight in I was shooting prone from a rest. On two separate instances the recoil of the shot caused the trigger to reset, while I was still squeezing, resulting in unintentional double tap.

Looking for recommendations to cure this problem, I've thought of four possible solutions.

1) The stock is very short, maybe a longer LOP will change grip ergonomics, and prevent trigger reset.

2) Adding weight, So that it slows the recoil, and I can hold the trigger in the fired position, without resetting

3) Heavier hammer/trigger spring, less likely to squeeze off the next round unintentionally

4) Aftermarket, or adjustable trigger. This one has a mile of overtravel after the hammer falls. Less to no overtravel will prevent the reset of recoil.

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I have the RSI adjustable trigger in one of my AKs. It is a nice trigger an everything is adjustable. Which means it's also kind of like a Rube Goldberg device. Too many moving parts for my liking in battle rifle. Great trigger for a range toy, though. My second AK has a Tapco G2 trigger in it, which works great. It has a light pull and clean break. But like your DDI, it also has a crazy long amount of overtravel.

I'm not sure how you could add weight without swapping out most of your bolt carrier, gas piston, etc.

If you want to try slowing down the bolt carrier, the easiest and cheapest way to do that is with a stiffer recoil spring.


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DarkPassenger308 said:
I have the RSI adjustable trigger in one of my AKs. It is a nice trigger an everything is adjustable. Which means it's also kind of like a Rube Goldberg device. Too many moving parts for my liking in battle rifle. Great trigger for a range toy, though. My second AK has a Tapco G2 trigger in it, which works great.
Click to expand...

Sorry, auto correct from my phone. Meant to say I have the RAS adjustable trigger


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I am using an ALG AK trigger in one of mine, and a G2 in the other.

The G2 is a lot easier to bump, and between the two, I actually prefer the ALG.

The G2 was originally installed in my Npap. With all of the myriad of issues with the npap, I have changed the tapco hammer and put in a Bulgarian (I still have the correct number of 922 parts in case anyone is wondering).

I have kept the tapco trigger and disconnector/sear. This was mainly to address the known issue of mushrooming the tail of the carrier because the Bulgarian hammer has the "correct" profile and hardness on the face of the hammer.

I also installed an xtra power wolff main spring to slow the bolt down a little.

Not that it probably matters, but I also put in a fire control retaining plate instead of the shepherds hook just to ensure that nothing moves around and to help take some of the impulse off of the receiver pin holes.
 
My milled receiver, C39, I'm pretty sure has the Tapco G2. And although not the smoothest trigger, I don't have the issues like I am with the DDI. I'm seriously considering the ALG trigger. I like their products, and the price is good.

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I have kept the tapco trigger and disconnector/sear. This was mainly to address the known issue of mushrooming the tail of the carrier because the Bulgarian hammer has the "correct" profile and hardness on the face of the hammer.

John, could you possibly post a picture, showing the profile. I have heard a bit about this issue recently from other sources.

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It's the contact surface (face) of the hammer that I am referring to.

Tapco G2
AKS-024.jpg


Bulgarian

bulgy ak hammer.PNG
http://www.clearviewinvest.com/bulg...cestrigerdoublehookhammeranddisconnector.aspx
 
Wow, not really a discernable difference there. Ive heard mention of people "reprofiling" the hammer face. At only 8 bucks for the Bulgarian set, may be better off just to drop one in, or at least just the hammer. I wonder how much custom fitting would be involved? seeing as how AK's arent as "mil spec" as other battle rifles. Im straying off topic of my original post though. I know the C39 was bad about deforming the tail of the bolt carrier, partly due to a hardening process im sure, but if something simple as a reprofile, or Bulgarian hammer would alleviate part of the issue, theres no need to put a whole trigger set in it. As far as the DDI ive not revisited it yet. Im really considering the ALG. Ive been very pleased with all of their products so far. Waiting for the LPK for my current AR build.

Straying slightly farther off topic, ALG is the abbreviation for Amy Lynn Geissle. I can only presume that the products are made in the same place, with the same tooling as the higher end Geissle branded stuff.
 
The ALG is a good trigger.

I have one in my other AK. I like it.

But the trigger in my Npap was good, I just wanted the correct profile hammer. By now, everyone has heard of the carrier tail mushrooming on the Npaps.

Mine isn't terrible, and it happens in virtually every AK if you shoot it enough. I just want everything as "correct" as possible.

I didn't have to do any fitting. Just swapped the hammer out with the bulgy.

In order to still comply with that 922 parts count stupidity, my npap now has a US made muzzle device to make up for it. ;)
 
My Zastava M70AB2 came with the Tapco G2 Trigger Group...and runs like a raped ape.


sAlM1Hv.jpg
 
Not to be a jerk but it sounds like technique and no disrespect but I sense you are way overthinking things. Grip the rifle firmly, pull it back into your shoulder pocket, don't put too much cheek on the stock...light cheek pressure unless you want your cheek slapped, and squeeze off a round. Don't take any crap from it, show it who's the boss.

if you limp wrist it or try shoot it like a small caliber target rifle it could do what you are describing. It's a battle rifle.....shoot it as such. It's not a target rifle nor are they match rounds. Send those puppies downrange with vigor. Good luck.
 
I think the gun has potential to be a good shooter. Not a precision rifle by any means, but if I want to use it for deer, coyote, or hog hunting, I need to be able to make a well placed shot. As with all of my rifles, I like to know what it's capable of. I want it to be the best it can be. I know many scoff at the thought of an AK being a "good" shooter. There's no reason it can't be though.

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Both of my AK's shoot really well.

Maybe not as well as my long SKS, but I think a lot of the inaccuracy is the round itself.
 
I have the reloading dies, and brass to do X39, just havnt gotten to start making loads for it yet.

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Yeah I bought a few bags of X39 soft points and there is polymer tipped as well. Barnes, Nosler and Lapua (and perhaps others)make Boat Tail OTM bullets....Open Tip Match. It's possible Sierra has a good offering. I think AK's shoot quite well. It will be interesting to load to match grade for them and see how they do.....actually measure cases after fire forming and get the correct amount of shoulder setback as well as perhaps chasing the lands and doing load development as far as powder drop. It's not something I would spend a lot of time on, being as I have my hands full already with my 6.5 Creedmoor, .308 and .223 precision rifles.

But figuring out the chamber and seating depth is easy and then it's just a matter of bullet choice and powder drop. Even a small amount of effort should yield a better cartridge than milsurp and cheapy Chinese and Russian loadings.
 
I got a Rifle Dynamics AK to M4 stock adapter in today. I've got an M4 style, fixed stock laying around I am going to try out on it. The LOP on the DDI is shorter even than my Century. I will probably put an ALG trigger in yet this fall as well.

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Cheap inconsistent ammo that'll open a group up like nobody's business typically.

I need to stop reading AK threads...need another one bad. I might break down and get a WASR. I've got an ALG trigger waiting to go in a rifle...

For around 60 bucks, you can't argue. ALG/Geissele make awesome stuff.
 
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