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Frog Lube... Time will tell..

Bathrobeman

Bathrobeman

.270 WIN
Ok so I've been messing w the frog Lube. First I just put it on cold, then I read it was recommend to add it to hot-ish temps (200* f or so). So I went back and re-did it that way. Then I read that it's known to gum up if the weapon sits idle awhile.
So I take a look at my handgun and I realize that it is still a little damp even after rubbing it off and drying over night.
So I decided to pop the pieces of my .40 back in the oven. When they came out the areas that were previously dry were now wet. So I wiped and put them back in. I did that a few times until it came out dry. This time I was only baking them at 180* for 8 minutes.
Anywho it's no longer wet, but the surfaces are still slick.
I hope I didn't get the okie-doke. But I think it'll probably work out fine. I didn't mess with the Maverick again though. It felt pretty dry and I can't imagine it gumming up so bad that it wouldn't eject a shell from a pump action.
 
I looked at the guide rod on my .40 and it had a little it blue/green coating of sorts on it so I did my best to remove most of it. Then I went to an indoor range and it worked without issues. I'm out of town and it is in my car and the temperatures have dropped to freezing or just above and it's raining cats n dogs.
I wish I could see how it would perform in this weather. I haven't taken it apart to clean it yet since shooting. I wonder how gummy how it is or isn't? I don't have any cleaning supplies on hand but maybe I'll take a look see anyway.
The Maverick is at home stored away. When I get back I'll take a look to see if it has any blue residue and if it still cycles smooth. I've never had it cycle better than after I first applied the Frog Lube, I hope it lasts.
 
Water Monkey said:
I used it. I found over time not used it gummed up my guns. I tossed it. I degreased and everything several times. heated the firearm parts.

Nope.
Click to expand...
I'm out of pocket and don't have any cleaning supplies, but I disassembled my .40 and gave it a wipe down with a t-shirt.
The parts weren't super tacky or gummy, but some areas had light film. Like where breakfree CLP would've been wet, this was more like a grease.
I was able to wipe of carbon off fairly easily with the t-shirt. But I'm not sure which way I'm going to go as far as cleaning it when I get home.
How long did yours sit before they were gummy? Days, weeks, months? Was it so gummy it caused failures?
Are you supposed to heat it up for every cleaning? That's a hassle.
 
Water Monkey said:
I used it. I found over time not used it gummed up my guns. I tossed it. I degreased and everything several times. heated the firearm parts.

Nope.
Click to expand...
Before you quit using it did you use froglube for each subsequent cleaning? Like you did it the first time then you'd use the CLP to clean after each time you shot?
 
Barhrobeman said:
Before you quit using it did you use froglube for each subsequent cleaning? Like you did it the first time then you'd use the CLP to clean after each time you shot?
Click to expand...

I treated the firearms (yes multiple) 3 times before use and used the froglube for cleaning as well after shooting. It smelled great. But I had a firearm sit in the safe for over a month and then went to use and when I racked the slide it was all gummed up.
 
So at first you think its fine.......just fine, its not special for all the crap you have to go through to properly apply ......but then you realize you have nothing special at all. Just a pain in the ass......but then it changes . As it accumulated in my AR lower, it seeped into the fire control. it sat , then it changed . It fouled the springs by taking too much room in the diconnector spring coils...I was getting failures to reset on a CMC 3.5# trigger. I know its not milspec , might not affect mil spec but there is an affect . Whether it stops your gun who knows but just seeing how it acted, and realizing it brings nothing to the table but a long process compared to traditional lube let alone something like Slip 2000......I tossed the rest , cussed Water monkey and moved clp back in .
 
oli700 said:
So at first you think its fine.......just fine, its not special for all the crap you have to go through to properly apply ......but then you realize you have nothing special at all. Just a pain in the ass......but then it changes . As it accumulated in my AR lower, it seeped into the fire control. it sat , then it changed . It fouled the springs by taking too much room in the diconnector spring coils...I was getting failures to reset on a CMC 3.5# trigger. I know its not milspec , might not affect mil spec but there is an affect . Whether it stops your gun who knows but just seeing how it acted, and realizing it brings nothing to the table but a long process compared to traditional lube let alone something like Slip 2000......I tossed the rest , cussed Water monkey and moved clp back in .
Click to expand...

I agree. Your experimentation was based on my assessment at the time. And I take full responsibility for that. It was solid at first. Time went on and it was sub par in lubrication and maintenance. It has tremendous anti rust abilities but I need my firearm to actually function properly without thought.
 
I used it and will never recommend it. I went shooting with some friends in early January. It was 28 degrees. The AR sat long enough to have cooled to the temp. When I went to chamber a round the bolt went forward in slow motion and stopped completely more than an inch from finishing the job. It's gone.

As a humorous side note, when I lubed the gun I forgot and left the lid off. Mice ate it until the cat did his job. How good can it be if it's edible?
 
Water Monkey said:
I agree. Your experimentation was based on my assessment at the time. And I take full responsibility for that. It was solid at first. Time went on and it was sub par in lubrication and maintenance. It has tremendous anti rust abilities but I need my firearm to actually function properly without thought.
Click to expand...
live and learn
 
carbinemike said:
I used it and will never recommend it. I went shooting with some friends in early January. It was 28 degrees. The AR sat long enough to have cooled to the temp. When I went to chamber a round the bolt went forward in slow motion and stopped completely more than an inch from finishing the job. It's gone.

As a humorous side note, when I lubed the gun I forgot and left the lid off. Mice ate it until the cat did his job. How good can it be if it's edible?
Click to expand...
lol
 
Yeah, that stinks.....
I just got back home and I cleaned my pistol with the frogsht. Either I got the bulk of the carbon off last night when wiped it down w a dry t-shirt, or it doesn't clean all that well.... Last night when I wiped it down I was able to get quite a bit of crabon out of the slide, but tonite when using the lube, not so much.
That's horse-crap about the gumming.. Has anyone ever told the mfg that their product is BS? I think I might have read somewhere on the FAQ's that it might not be suitable for some climates. But then they claim It's good to -40*F. I suppose gun safes are the wrong climate.
I don't think I'll be shooting for a bit, so I guess as my part of the experiment I will check periodically and document when you getting occurs.
What were the advertised benefits again?
 
So far so good but it hasn't been that long. I haven't fired anything yet but my .40 is still cycling normal (by hand). My mav is torn down and the pieces are in ziplock bags while I'm waiting for a new mag tube to arrive. I've been out of town for a few days so they could be covered in gunk as I type, but they weren't when I left.
 
I have it all put back together and guess what, the action isn't anywhere near as smooth as when I first applied the FL. It hasn't "gummed up" or anything it's just harder to pump than it was when I first applied.
So yeah, I guess it sucks.
 
I bucked the system. I sprayed all of the action pieces with Rem oil while it was still assembled and I racked it quite a bit. It still not as smooth as it was.
I'll let y'all know if it turns into an apocalyptic mess.
 
I'm a dummy..
Y'all know why it's not as smooth? I think it's just the outsside finish of the new tube isn't as smooth as the old one yet. As I've been working it the finish is wearing off some and it's smoothing back out.
There weren't any adverse affects by spraying Rem oil on surfaceas that had previously been "treated" with Froglube. But I guess my test is now skewed.
 
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Alrighty, back in business.
I took 'er apart and I took some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sanded the finish on the mag tube where the fore end rubs. It would've done it on its own with use but I just helped it along. After sanding and cleaned of debris I heated it and hit it with the FL and wiped off all the residue to where it was dry. A little while later I waxed it with a few coats of Rennisance Wax. The mag tube is now smooth to the touch. I also sprayed the inside of the fore end with 3-In-One RV Care Silicon Lube. They market it for rv slideouts but it's safe for plastic and it works well on the inside of the fore end. I let it dry before I put it back on but it still feels slick. Y'all should give it a whirl.
I had a little Froglube left so I heated the receiver and I put some on the "rails" where the action bars ride and I did the same with the elevator. Were y'all running it wet or dry? I let it sit a min then wipe it off. Then I'll even reheat it and wipe some more to make sure it's dry. I wiped off all the Rem oil residue that I added yesterday but I didn't degrease it prior to adding frog crap. I didn't mess with the bolt and all I did to the carrier is wipe off the Rem oil. It might be early in the game, but I'm not having any gummiyng issues thus far. Also, still no ill effects noticed from spraying Rem Oil on parts that had previously been treated with Froglube.
It's all back together and the action sounds like a typewriter again. I put the Mcarbo mag follower in the new tube and it works. I'm not sure if I notice any difference or not though, but maybe.
I did shorten the LOP a little while it was apart. I have the Limbsaver recoil pad and it has an adapter plate that you have to use so the screws line up with the holes. The adapter plate attaches to the plate that the rubber pad is glued to and both plates are about the same thickness. Instead of using the adapter I drilled a hole in the recoil pad and plate itself to where the screws would line up. The LOP wasn't real bad for me prior, but it fits me a little better this way. I hope the pad is still as effective.
 

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For what it is worth, about 12 months ago, I totally cleaned and lubed my 590A1 with Frog Lube; I tried to absolutely follow the instructions to the point of having a "heat gun" heat the parts to the optimum suggested temperature. My 590A1 is only a home self-defensive tool which I keep in a safe, hoping that my "un-safed" pistols and revolvers will allow us to fight to the safe if the SHTF. Anyway, I "un-safed" the 590A1 to check on it and found it was so totally "gummed up" that I could not cycle the same. Quickly, I am stripping the same and taking all my solvents to the 590A1. The Frog Lube goes in the "garbage." I would not want Frog Lube to "touch" any weapon of my ever again. I just hope the solvents I have will get rid of any residue. The only tool I have that I applied Frog Lube to is the 590A1. Lucky me!!
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