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what type lube??

i have torn down my maverick 88, to fix the elevator catching on the cartridge interceptor. i think i have it fixed, i will be reinstalling everything tomorrow. do i use grease and oil inside?, just oil or grease? if so which one and where? i have hi temp red grease, rem oil, and hoppes gun oil, this is all i have at this time. thanks for any help.
 
Slip 2000 for me.

A high quality synthetic motor oil is better than most of the average gun oils out there.

Rem oil is useless IMHO it burns off at the first sign of heat and just plain disappears the rest of the time. It's better than nothing but there are a lot better options out there,
 
Tip the oil can you put into your car upside down and into a bottle and get that last few drops of motor oil. There is no such thing as "gun oil". There's no reason to ever pay for such. Common baby oil (mineral oil) is perfect if you can stand the scent on your manly guns. If you can't, pure mineral oil is avail at your local pharmacy-type store. You can even make a workable cosmoline-type of grease from Vaseline and heavy motor oil. Good old 3-In-One oil has even been military issue as gun oil before. WD-40, much maligned, works perfectly on guns.
 
Grease will catch debris and I think is better for storage.
Rem Oil, Breakfree CLP, etc stay wet enough to no jam a pump shotgun.
Y'all will laugh and more than likely flame the S out of me, but lately I've been using 3-IN-One silicone lube spray on the action pieces. I like it because it doesn't stay wet but it leaves a slick film. It's marketed for RV slide outs. Safe for metal, rubber, and plastics.
I still use CLP etc to clean, but I'll spray down inside the receiver, and the action pieces with the silicone lube, let it dry then reassemble. No failures to report thus far. I've even used it on a semi auto pistol. No issues there either.
 

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I often use oils and grease.

I don't mind using grease on my bolt(s) either.

Yes, grease does catch fouling, but seems like the fouling helps keep everything slick and smooth anyway.

Least for a while.
 
Not sure if I agree with the author about some of that.

I prefer to oil my wooden stocks with murphy's oil soap occasionally. On the same note, even expensive wooden furniture needs to be treated and cared for occasionally. Otherwise, it will dry and crack and split and warp and everything else.

If you never clean or oil a wooden stock, it will dry out and crack too.

Predominantly somewhere near the receiver or around the buttpad. Usually the receiver side.
 
My guns don't get the heavy-duty workout that some others do. That being said I've always had good results with 3-in-1 oil for those areas that "rotate" and wheel bearing grease for areas that slide. The grease is applied with a Q-tip (very slight amount) and then wipe off excess so it is coated but not really any visible amount, just so it is "there". I clean the guns several times a year so this works for me, may not be so good for heavy-duty use or prolonged intervals between cleanings.
 
Not sure if I agree with the author about some of that.

I prefer to oil my wooden stocks with murphy's oil soap occasionally. On the same note, even expensive wooden furniture needs to be treated and cared for occasionally. Otherwise, it will dry and crack and split and warp and everything else.

If you never clean or oil a wooden stock, it will dry out and crack too.

Predominantly somewhere near the receiver or around the buttpad. Usually the receiver side.
I concur. Why wouldn't anyone take care of the wood!? It seems ridiculous to think it's a bad idea to not treat it with something now and again. I have my grandpa's old Remington .22 from the 30's and it looks like crap. The stock is dried and cracked because it wasn't taken care of.
I did try the frog lube the other day on my 88. I cleaned off the Rem oil and the silicon spray then, then I let all of the action pieces soak in the frog lube over night in bags, wiped them off and reassembled. I'm not sure how well it is as a cleaner, but the action is a lot smoother with it vs Rem oil. It also smells like mint.
 
My guns don't get the heavy-duty workout that some others do. That being said I've always had good results with 3-in-1 oil for those areas that "rotate" and wheel bearing grease for areas that slide. The grease is applied with a Q-tip (very slight amount) and then wipe off excess so it is coated but not really any visible amount, just so it is "there". I clean the guns several times a year so this works for me, may not be so good for heavy-duty use or prolonged intervals between cleanings.

I've used 3n1 oil a lot on guns too. While it runs off if you put it on too thick, and burns off rather quickly, it has never harmed any of my guns.
 
Well fellas I went ahead and re-Frog Lubed my Maverick 88, but this time I heated up the parts in the oven at 195* F for 8 min or so prior to oiling. The end result as far as action smoothness far exceeds my expectations. We'll see how clean it stays and if it continues to stay smooth, and how easy it is to clean after shooting. I also did my PX4 .40
 
Well shoot.. I just did some web browsing and about 50% of the people are reporting that Frog Lube gummed up after sitting for a period of time, causing some semi autos to jam. The other half accuse the others of using too much.
I'll report my findings. I hope I'm in the better half.
 
i went to my local wal mart tonight to pick up a few things and ended up at automotive and sporting goods:), their rem oil was up to $7 a can. i went across and looked at oil and remembered about people liking mobile 1, i looked and most was$8 - $10 a quart, then i saw some on clearence, i hope this is ok cause i bought a quart of mobile 1 advanced full synthetic 15w50 for $3, the salesman said that weight didn't sell good. then i went by camping and found wd40 specialist silicone 11oz spray on sale for $2.50, was told 3 in 1 out sells it even tho its made by the same company. are these good lubes for not only my shotgun but also for my lcr handgun? thanks
 
I went to get some break free clp today but they didn’t have any. So I opted to try Hornady One Shot clp. I had already cleaned the barrel prior to having it so I don’t know how well it cleans the dirty end. But I cleaned everything else with it and seemed to do well enough. One thing though it says to apply liberal and wait 30 sec before wiping to clean. However, the majority of it is evaporated prior to 30 seconds.
I haven’t reassembled yet so I can’t speak for how silly smooth the action is or isn’t.
I hope this product works out. I’m not a fan of guns leaking oil. At least I didn’t have to bake my weapon in the oven this time.. PS: the FL left a little bit o’ teal goop.:mad: I blasted it off with Hoppes Blast n Shine prior to the One Shot.
 
By far the worst lube I ever tried was Rem-Oil.

I'm happy with Mobil-1 20W-50 and crimson grease, and Ed's Red for carbon and crud cleaning, and Hoppes #9
for copper fouling, and Ballistol for wood and metal preservation.
 
By far the worst lube I ever tried was Rem-Oil.

I'm happy with Mobil-1 20W-50 and crimson grease, and Ed's Red for carbon and crud cleaning, and Hoppes #9
for copper fouling, and Ballistol for wood and metal preservation.
You use the Mobil 1 on the action pieces? Do you use ballistol inside the barrel? Do you clean copper fouling or crud first from inside the barrel?
 
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