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Good morning

@Bobster It got hot because I Was trying to shoot 100 Amps into that.
I just about melted the whole thing on the floor.

That “one amp per thousandth” rule is OK if you have a large part, but if you have a small part you might only need half of that. I think I ended up finishing that at 55 Amps.

And I had problems because of the geometry. I needed to use more stick out on the tungsten and turn the gas up because I was trying to sort of weld down in a crotch.


This is the first weldd I did with the new auto darkening welding helmet, and it really works well.

The only problem I have is that I’m not used to it and I keep trying to lift it and drop it manually. I haven’t done that much electric welding, And I have done almost 0 electric Welding in 45 years, but still the force of habit is a strong thing.
 
Good morning Mossberg Owners.

I started out in the wood framing business as an assistant engineer. I never drew anything over three stories, made of wood.

The tallest wooden building I’ve ever been is 10 stories. And I was on the eighth floor of that, in a hotel room. But because of the fire codes it had to have concrete elevator towers and concrete stair towers for egress.

I spent a lot of time working on the car yesterday, and the brake system is working solidly.

I got the firewall installed and aligned and bolted in place with one bolt & a rope. After a little more alignment and some temporary bracing and another bolt, I will be able to glue it inside the fiberglass body permanently which is what this car always needed desperately.

Because there are gaps to fill, I will need some epoxy filler, And then I will go over that with layers of fiberglass cloth to create the final connection. I will use the filler Sort of like tack welding, but I’m not going to putty up the entire perimeter of the firewall. It will get several coats of fiberglass to make sure that it is integrated with the body. This also means that the sides can never be unbolted from the cowl again. (I am wondering if this stupid phone will ever learn to spell the word cowl or towel correctly as it always tries to make it a different word or a proper name like Howell.)

While my epoxy filler is curing up I will start wiring the tail lights. I’m going to need some epoxy, more wire loom, and some heat shrink tubing before I proceed though.

So I’m off to go shopping at the hardware store and I will check you all later.
 
@Bobster It got hot because I Was trying to shoot 100 Amps into that.
I just about melted the whole thing on the floor.

That is what the pedal is for--initial heat then you back off. If clamped in a vise and you overheat, the vise will help to suck up the heat and cool the part down to less melty temps. I didn't mean to say that part would require 125A. I probably would have started with 80a because you are welding an "edge" and there is no where for the heat to go...
 
Oh I forgot to mention that I did not use the pedal. This was my first attempt using the finger switch.

My theory was that fingers are faster than feet. Plus I was just going to try it and see how it worked.

It works.

Anyhow I was just pulsing the torch with my finger and not using the pulse control on the machine at all. If I had started out about 50 to 60 amps with 1/8” more stick out I think it would’ve come out much nicer.

The truth is that I knew that I could do this but I didn’t know how good it would come out and I didn’t really care, because I’m gonna get rid of these parts in the near future. So this was just kind of a test coupon for me. I knew if I screwed it up I could just make another hook and weld it on.
 
Oh I forgot to mention that I did not use the pedal. This was my first attempt using the finger switch.

Is that an on/off switch or a variable? If an on/off, you set your parameters, hit the switch, ramps up to selected amps or pulse, hit switch again it ramps down. Variable would work just like the pedal, only controlled by your finger or thumb...
 
Is that an on/off switch or a variable? If an on/off, you set your parameters, hit the switch, ramps up to selected amps or pulse, hit switch again it ramps down. Variable would work just like the pedal, only controlled by your finger or thumb...

Just a switch AFAICT.

It does 2T or 4T with the trigger switch. I only tried 2T of course, for such a short weld.

I gave it some ramp time, as you describe, plus a lot of post flow to cool the weld.
 
Good morning guys.
Well I got the parts to repair my boat, but right now I’m on another job.
B50494B8-16EC-4988-82CD-6EB3E676B707.jpeg

Today I’m trimming the VW floorboards because I was afraid to trim enough when I trimmed them originally & now I have to trim them 2 to 3 times anyway . . . bleah.
 
That propeller came from Ohio and I got it in three business days.
:cheers:
I’ve always gotten a kick out of the disparity in shipping various items..I’ve had it take 2-3 weeks to get little items, but 3 days for my tankless water heater from New York and a set of custom magnesium wheels for my Triumph from London UK…are you gonna try the TIG on the old prop?..
 
Today I’m trimming the VW floorboards because I was afraid to trim enough when I trimmed them originally & now I have to trim them 2 to 3 times anyway . . . bleah.

You know the old adage: "Measure Twice--Cut Once" or was it "I cut it twice and its STILL too short..." :D
 
Plastic propellers are not the greatest but you have a lot less chance of bending your prop shaft when you hit something.
Makes sense. Your pics didn’t register a scale to me, so I just equated it to the big “ power prop” we had on our Mercruiser 120 as a kid..
 
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