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Good morning

Felllmann, can't specifically answer your question but if I remember correctly on a Remington 870 the OD of their barrels vary by type from .830 to .890.

Not sure about the 590 barrels but suspect they vary also.

Regards
 
Felllmann, can't specifically answer your question but if I remember correctly on a Remington 870 the OD of their barrels vary by type from .830 to .890.

Not sure about the 590 barrels but suspect they vary also.

Regards
Doesn’t it look like it gets tightened on to the barrel with the 2 screws? That would seem like some adjustability is available within reason?
 
When you start seeing stars and your tungsten turns black from corrosion, you forgot to turn on the Argon!

Actually, that doesn’t happen until I return from lunch and pick up the torch again. Forget about a picture of that weld. Yuck!

I don’t have this whole frame welded up yet but I’m doing it on the floor, so there’s lots of out of position welding. Fortunately I don’t care too much about how bad this looks because it’s going to be under the floor and invisible.
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Mostly it’s just tack welded up right now, and I did a couple of little gap fills.


I am welding 1/16 tube to 3/16 angle and I think I may be at the Max practical heat for the type 17 torch, doing the fillets.

When I was welding a zig-zag fill bead at 80 Amps, it felt to me like the plastic was softening a bit.

I found myself wanting to take lots of breaks so I don’t melt the torch.

Anyhow I am learning to work the TIG, and discovering other things about welding that I really didn’t know.

I’ve never done much welding laying on the ground, and I figured out that if you don’t bend all your welding rods in advance, you can’t pick them up from the floor with gloves on. My welding table has an open grid so that is never a problem there.
 
Looking back at the topic, caddmann, you've done a lot of work on the roadster. When you get done, you should do a few laps around Beverly Hills just because you can. :)
 
Anyhow I am learning to work the TIG, and discovering other things about welding that I really didn’t know.

I’ve never done much welding laying on the ground, and I figured out that if you don’t bend all your welding rods in advance, you can’t pick them up from the floor with gloves on. My welding table has an open grid so that is never a problem there.

There is no substitute for time behind the torch. If you were to take a class, the instructor would have you laying bead upon bead upon bead. 100s if not 1000s. Practice makes better...

I cut my filler rods in half so they are less unwieldy...

They make a heat shield for your glove you might consider. One torch option you can try is to get a #26--I think it rated for 200A and is a little beefier but will eventually get hot--just not as quick as a #17.

heatshield.jpg
 
Good morning gentlemen. I think it’s time that I might start a Welding thread.

There is no substitute for time behind the torch. If you were to take a class, the instructor would have you laying bead upon bead upon bead. 100s if not 1000s. Practice makes better...

I cut my filler rods in half so they are less unwieldy...

They make a heat shield for your glove you might consider. One torch option you can try is to get a #26--I think it rated for 200A and is a little beefier but will eventually get hot--just not as quick as a #17.

View attachment 26014

If I had time to sit down and practice on more scrap metal I would do it, but I’ve got to get this thing together pronto. Besides, the members that I am repairing right now are going to disappear in the future because the frame design is hokey as hell. They don’t have to look any better than the rest of the welding on this car. LOL

BTW I always have to cut those filler rods in half and bend them before I can start. Now, I also have to grind about six electrodes because I know I will wreck five of them right away.

I am definitely not laying a straight bead here, as what I have is a tube fillet weld to a flat plate that doesn’t quite cover the end of it along one edge and has a bent edge that falls away from it too.

Doing this on the floor, and allowing for the weldment to be turned over twice, I was able to get 12 good tack welds on the bottom before I flipped it.

Most of them turned up beautiful, but a couple did not want to take and I blasted them in too long. I think this was a matter of electrode angle, although what try to do is the same thing I would do with the gas torch: point the heat at the thickest metal first, while shielding the thin metal with a filler rod until things come up to temperature.

Still I made a hole and a blob, but also 10 good tacks, which turned out to be plenty. I flipped it over and it felt solid and it was still square when I measured it.

Welding up the rest of it let me sit on the floor to do the gap fills, but I should’ve used a thicker filler rod, allowing me to shield the thinwall even more. The 3/32 rod was not up to the task.

It would definitely have been easier up on the table but I would’ve had to move the whole table, plus the floor is flatter.

I’m going to go stand it up now and finish the welding, So I can get it bolted on the car and put my fenders on.

I was going to take it for blasting and powder coat but on this go around I don’t think I will even bother with that. When it belongs to me, I’ll worry about how bad the bottom looks.
 
Looking back at the topic, caddmann, you've done a lot of work on the roadster. When you get done, you should do a few laps around Beverly Hills just because you can. :)

Thanks, but maybe not likely to happen before California outlaws gasoline.

I had a friend online from the East Coast and he would write and say, “I’m gonna be in San Francisco, why don’t you stop in and see me?”

He had no clue that San Francisco was 3 1/2 hours by car from Clovis.

Anyhow, I am about 3 1/2 hours from Beverly Hills as well, and I have absolutely no interest in those folks.

My wife convinced me to visit Hollywood and SanDiego and Disneyland and Catalina once, but that’s all just a big PITA to me. I prefer big trees and twisty roads.

If the state of California decides I’m going to be allowed to drive this car on the public streets, which is not a foregone conclusion at this point, I will be touring through the local Sierra Nevada.
 
Is that because of the "vaccination rule" ?

Edit: Yes it is.. forgot to read the text

Its sad :(

Unfortunately, this is happening across America. October 18 is a day that many will remember. Our medical doctors and nurses have care for Covid patients for the last two years only to find they are no longer "needed". We have many military warfighters facing the same situation. Several police forces in major population areas will lose a majority of their officers.

Yes it's sad but could be easily avoided!
 
Good morning gentlemen. I think it’s time that I might start a Welding thread.

Welding up the rest of it let me sit on the floor to do the gap fills, but I should’ve used a thicker filler rod, allowing me to shield the thinwall even more. The 3/32 rod was not up to the task.

Maybe a weld thread but think of the number of "missed" posts there would be... :(

What you will find with a thicker filler rod (I think 1/8" is the next size up), is that it may require too much heat to melt and/or it will cool the puddle too quickly and "stick" to the work. A thinner rod like 1/16" you can feed in faster and help cool the weld to prevent burn-through. What you are doing REALLY requires a variable hand control since you would have trouble manipulating a pedal. I'm not talking about the button they gave you although it could function acceptably if you have the ramp up/down set correctly and through trial-and-error you should be able to put down a decent spot/stitch weld. SSC didn't show anything variable.
 
Most of the time I am using 3/32 filler, but I pulled out the fat stuff to patch that big gap.

I had the amps about 95 and it all stuck like glue.

Today I beefed up the floor edges and got the rear body on square with the front . . . Finally!

I added two short struts to take the rear subframe loads off the floor pan, and into the VW rear torsion housing. I made two long ones to hang the rear subframe crossmember tips from the forged upper suspension mounts.

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I will make two longer ones tomorrow, to take the rearmost corners of the rear subframe up to the same forged mounts.

Then I will decide if I need to X-brace the rear suspension assembly.
 
Good Morning Mossies.

Last night I spent a little over an hour watching a "green worm" crawling across my TV screen.

My 17 year-old grandson was making his first night flight with his instructor and I watched the trip unfold using FlightAware.
He took off from Lawrenceville GA just before 9pm and landed about an hour later. Made 3 touch-and-go landings at Winder GA and a few pattern after arriving back home.

The Experimental Aviation Association just gave him a scholarship award for his work with the Lawrenceville chapter. That was a BIG deal for him.

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This is his final pattern taken live.

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Wow, that’s quite a milestone Scoop! I remember the first time I got to handle the controls in a small plane. It was a Beechcraft Bonanza, which is a sporty little craft all right.
 
Haven't been on in a while, mostly been dealing with some personal stuff and haven't really had time for hobbies. Looks like I showed up at the right time too, I just started trade school for welding. We bought a Lincoln Electric 125 when I was in high school that I've done some good projects with, now I'm picking up the other processes pretty quickly too.


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Zoomed in really far to crop out the really messy cuts that I didn't do:

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I did this one with TIG last week, I've gotten a bit better since then. In retrospect I should've used more filler but I think it'll do.

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