• Mossberg Owners is in the process of upgrading the software. Please bear with us while we transition to the new look and new upgraded software.

I Just Joined the Club

Here is something interesting...but...if this is optimum, why is it not used. (Why a 1/10" twist?)

If one believes this, a 170 grain bullet with a length of 1.022" (Sierra FNSP) requires a twist of 1/13.9". A 125 gr bullet of .725" requires a twist of 1/19.6".

It is the Greenhill Formula: 150 (or 180 for over 2800 fps) (constant) x bullet diameter squared / bullet length.

A 1/10 twist seems a bit fast for anything but a huge 220 gr bullet. I do not have any of those so if someone has a 220 gr .308 bullet and can measure it please post the length here. I am real curious about the twist required.

Here is a calculator that may help see the calculations in action:

http://kwk.us/twist.html

Oh, PS, I cannot believe this calculator is worth much because if it was true to it's word, 3030 barrels would have a twist rate slower than 1/10.
 
Last edited:
I dug up my targets from the first range trip with the new 464. I remembered the way they looked but I could not remember the recipes for the loads. Then I found the target with the load data in the file names.

50 yard sight in_4_10_16 3030_150 gr Fed Factory Flat Nose_copy.jpg 50 Yd_5 Shot 3030 125 Gr  Sierra FNHP 25.5 gr IMR 4198_copy.jpg150 gr Xtreme_23.6 H4895.JPG

As it turns out, the 150 grain loads were factory Federal Power Shock FNSP. The 125 gr Sierra loads were homegrowns charged with 25.5 gr IMR 4198. Only difference with the loads I put together today was the primer. I had used Federals before but this time I used fresh Winchester LR. I found a recipe for the 150 gr Speer Flat Points: 33.0; 33.5; 34.0 gr. H4895. The load at 34.0 gr is supposed to generate 2390 fps. but, I am sure it will be less. I chose this load because the velocity matched the Federal factory velocity.

The factory loads I shot were very good...the first time out. Now I hope i can duplicate that load. I will also take some factory loads from the lot I used the first time out. Now I can have kind of a side by side comparison.

I have several low velocity loads ready for testing also. 165 gr lead flat nose lubed with LsStuff ALOX-like stuff but better; 165 gr FN lead with the red coating; and 150 gr Xtreme FN Plated. The target on the right above with the little pasted on bullseye at the bottom is a plated Xtreme 150 gr bullet with 23.6 gr H4895.

Something just HAS to work.

Fingers crossed.
 
The Smith Shop Flip Side.jpg Magazine Follower _Edited.jpg
I also posted this in "Metal Follower" thread from 2014.

M464 Stainless steel Follower and the replacement plastic sent from Mossberg.
 
Last edited:
Didn't know where else to post this...

Olympics Outrage!!!
Just in..... Dothan Alabama athletes have just been BANNED from participating in the Olympics! They showed up at the fencing event with post-hole diggers.
 
One more little item I have been wanting to get is a neck size only collet die for the 30-30. I know these are not recommended for some rifles but I need them for a special purpose. Occasionally I have to pull bullets out of a loaded cartridge. Since all the cases have been full length sized before reloading I know they fit the chamber perfectly.

But, when a bullet is pulled, the neck inside diameter is not tight enough to keep the bullet from sliding into the case too far...even all the way...so, I need something to use to tighten the neck. I don't want to ruin a primer but I want to size the neck to hold the bullet. I also got the flaring tool for bottleneck rifle cartridges for use with lead bullets and tight fitting flat based bullets.

Now all I have to do is pull a bullet, pour the powder into a bowl, if I want to reuse it; or pour it back into its original container. Then I make sure the case is the correct length, trim if necessary and necksize. Flaring the case mouth makes sliding the lead bullet in without skinning off lead, and after recharging the case I seat the bullet and crimp.

One adjustment I make to the necksize die is to the depriming mandrel. I have to break off the pin that punches out the primer. By not attempting to deprime a good primer I don't worry about the primer going off. I think it is a good safety measure. And, because neck sizing only is not recommended for lever guns I am not tempted to neck size a big box of cases, although all it would take is to swap the mandrel with the broken pin for a new mandrel with a primer punch.

I got the set of collet dies for this purpose. But I intend to try a few neck sized only cartridges just to see.

I have been cleaning out a storage room for the last couple weeks making the 30 mile trip to load my little tiny car and haul the stuff back home, so I have not had much time for shooting all these test loads I have ready to go.

Besides that, my legs, knees, hip and back have been giving me fits so I just do as little as possible. I load the car from storage and drive home. By then I am wore out and unload the car the next day. but now that is done and I have to unload the car. But before that I cannot get any more into my apartment...it is as small as the car. The shelves I got should help that out. Hopefully, by Saturday I can get out. Rain or shine. But now I have to decide if I want to shoot squirrels or paper targets.

Season opens on Sept. 3rd and I like squirrel hunting about as much as I like eating ice cream with hot fudge and chopped nuts, caramel swirls and chopped up Reece's candy bars.

Well, that's my story and I'm stickin to it.:rolleyes:
 
I used to go squirrel hunting with my Sheridan Blue Streak pellet rifle.

Eight pumps with that gun and you could put a pellet right through a squirrel.

Now I haven't shot at a squirrel in almost 50 years.

But I smacked this possum in the head with a big stick, and as I don't like possum much at all, I didn't feel in the least bit sorry for the little varmint.

20160627_074147.jpg
 
I used to go squirrel hunting with my Sheridan Blue Streak pellet rifle.

Eight pumps with that gun and you could put a pellet right through a squirrel.

Now I haven't shot at a squirrel in almost 50 years.

But I smacked this possum in the head with a big stick, and as I don't like possum much at all, I didn't feel in the least bit sorry for the little varmint.

I started hunting way back when I was about 12 with a Sheridan Blue Streak. 5mm. You're right...it is a squirrel getter.
 
Last edited:
You can fix that post if you move the term [/quote] in between our words.

If you type anything above that [/quote] it screws up your post.

Dad bought me the bluestreak about 1965. I sold it at the Sunnyside swap meet in Fresno about 1980, and I regret it to this day.

We only had ground squirrels in the desert, and they are like gophers: Varmints.

Now you can't shoot one without a sealed dispensation from the pope.

I've never shot a tree squirrel. By the time we moved to tree squirrel country I was only hunting large game, and then very rarely. Then we moved back to the desert and it was ground squirrels & jackrabbits again.
 
You can fix that post if you move the term
in between our words.

If you type anything above that [/quote] it screws up your post.

Dad bought me the Bluestreak about 1965. I sold it at the Sunnyside swap meet in Fresno about 1980, and I regret it to this day.

We only had ground squirrels in the desert, and they are like gophers: Varmints.

Now you can't shoot one without a sealed dispensation from the pope.

I've never shot a tree squirrel. By the time we moved to tree squirrel country I was only hunting large game, and then very rarely. Then we moved back to the desert and it was ground squirrels & jackrabbits again.[/QUOTE]




Thanks for the tip. When I deleted the picture I failed to check to make sure everything was in place.
 
Sorry, somehow the wrong link was on my clipboard.

It's a thread called another blast from the past and it's in the photographs section.

I gotta get out of here I don't have time to look right now.
 


A friend of mine who works on guns recommends "Evapo-Rust" from Harbor Freight. Removes rust and other unsightly stuff from inside and outside of a barrel. All metal parts can be soaked and cleaned easily.

BTW: the nipple appears to be stainless steel. Most stock kits did not provide stainless steel nipples. Those were extra. Also, it would not hurt to pour a few drops of penetrating oil into the nipple mouth to make sure no unstable but still burnable powder is sitting in there under a ball. If it was from the 70s it probably used black powder rather than a substitute bp like Pyrodex.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-quart-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96433.html
 
My plastic follower bit the dust today.

I got it good and hot at the rifle range and I think the combination of a hot gun and WD-40 anti-corrosion lube cause the plastic to swell and it is seized in the tube.

The rounds were just rattling around in the magazine tube loose, and I had to gravity feed the receiver by pointing the gun at the Moon and jacking the action.
 
My plastic follower bit the dust today.

I got it good and hot at the rifle range and I think the combination of a hot gun and WD-40 anti-corrosion lube cause the plastic to swell and it is seized in the tube.

The rounds were just rattling around in the magazine tube loose, and I had to gravity feed the receiver by pointing the gun at the Moon and jacking the action.

Time for stainless steel.
That's what mine did second or third time out. It got sticky but didn't seize completely, luckily. Once I got it out and cleaned the tube and dried it of all excess oil, I slid the stainless steel follower in and it went through like cheese through a goose.
 
Last edited:
One thing I forgot to mention: After I cleaned out all the oil from inside the tube, then sprayed it inside with BrakeKleen, I soaked some cotton patches in Super Blue and swabbed the inside of the tube down. I let it set a couple minutes and swabbed it again. Then I rinsed it with watered down patches and made sure the bluing was out of the tube. Next came a quick spray of water displacing/rust preventing oil, not WD40, and then I wiped out the excess. It has been a couple weeks and so far no rust and the follower is still smooth.
 
To get mine out I had to stuff about 10 rounds up the tube and that finally forced it through.

I cleaned it up, deburred it and tried to stick it back in. It got about 1-inch and stuck fast.

I'll screw a little puller in there and yank it out.

I was going to make a follower but I may just order that stainless one. I guess I'm not really in a hurry.
 
Back
Top