590A1 Hammer Spring Question

[#1Buck4me]

Looking for thoughts and advice on reducing the racking effort on my 590A1. It definitely takes more effort to cock and chamber a round on my 590A1 than on my 500 or 88. The gun has been thoroughly cleaned and fired at least 400 rounds. The parkerizing on the bolt and other innards seems to be wearing in nicely.

Have read the thread about trigger springs, but I am pleased with the trigger just as it is; I even like double action revolvers. There is not quite as much difference if I rack the guns with the hammer cocked, so I am thinking that the hammer spring may be the main difference. As a side note the safety is difficult to engage, but not a real problem as I have never needed it. If I chamber a round then it is time for it to go bang.

So should I just be happy with my mil spec shotty or is there a solution that will not affect reliability?

 

[Rossignol]

This is kinda a new one to me. So the action is difficult (too strong a word maybe) to cycle? It shouldn't feel sluggish or gummed up or even take significant effort. I wouldn't think hammer spring only because there should be more than enough leverage to overcome it.

Does the effort it requires stay consistent all the through or does it get tighter as it goes?

I don't know if I'm saying all this the right way so bear with me and we'll see if we can get it figured out.

 

[#1Buck4me]

It is the initial movement that gives the most resistance when the hammer is not cocked. Then the rest of the stroke is somewhat stronger than my 500 or 88.

 

[Rossignol]

I can't help but suspect there's something else rubbing. When you had it apart, what kind of wear did you observe on the action bars and even inside the receiver?

 

[#1Buck4me]

I can't help but suspect there's something else rubbing. When you had it apart, what kind of wear did you observe on the action bars and even inside the receiver?

The action bars look fine, very similar to the 500. There was was a little more wear on the top of the receiver. Kinda similar pattern, but extended further to the rear.

Swapped the bolt and bolt carrier but the 590A1 was still more resistant so I swapped them back.

Probably just need to shoot a couple a hundred more clays and see what happens.

 

[590guy]

I experienced a similar issue with an ATI foregrip on my 500. The action was so stiff that I had to swap the grip out for something else. I do t know why that particular grip would do that, but after I changed it I have had no issues with the action.


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[Rossignol]

I experienced a similar issue with an ATI foregrip on my 500. The action was so stiff that I had to swap the grip out for something else. I do t know why that particular grip would do that, but after I changed it I have had no issues with the action.


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This is a good point, what does the wear look like on the magazine tube? Not saying it's the forend, but something in the action or at least along the path of travel including possibly the magazine tube.

 

[#1Buck4me]

I experienced a similar issue with an ATI foregrip on my 500. The action was so stiff that I had to swap the grip out for something else. I do t know why that particular grip would do that, but after I changed it I have had no issues with the action.


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Good info. I put a Hogue forend and stock on the 590A1 as soon as I got it. Will swap to the 500 forend next chance I get.

 

[Rossignol]

Good info. I put a Hogue forend and stock on the 590A1 as soon as I got it. Will swap to the 500 forend next chance I get.

It could very well be the forend. The Hogue is a tight fit and on a 590A1 with the heavy barrel, it could be rubbing. Good thinking @590guy

 

[Patch700]

The extra resistance you are feeling is to be expected due to the "Cock on opening" design (heavier fp springs would definitely be a factor here) I would say that so long as once it is cocked you don't notice a huge difference as compared to your 500 you are fine.
Case in point , if you removed the trigger group and with shotgun upside down cycled it.. you would notice an effortless cycle.. no cocking because the trigger group is missing.

 

[blacksmith]

Click Here To Tune The 590A1 Trigger

And if that doesn't work.

First place I'd look is the forend as others mentioned. The heavy barrels are bad about rubbing on the bottom.

Second is the ejector. If the ejector is bent out too far it will jam up the action bad.

Third is the firing pin return spring. These are way too strong on late model guns. This makes the locking block hard to operate. Ironically this doesn't seem to be a problem while operating the gun though.

In regards to the safety, you may want to cut that spring down too.

Come to think of it, there are a lot of springs on Mossbergs that are just too much