OMCHamlin
.22LR
Yeah, and this one's "bolt related" also. Actually, this is an older, derelict gun that a sharp young lady where I work part time has asked my help on, and in turn, I find that I need help with it also.
The gun as given to me had a non-functional safety and the striker (firing pin?) would follow down on bolt closure nearly 100% of the time.
I have worked on this old coot a good bit, and I have resolved the safety by adding a drop of weld on the safety blocking pad and dressing it down so that when engaged, there is metal under the rear of the trigger blade, blocking upward movement.
I then turned towards the issue of not staying cocked by looking at the striker "tooth" that engages the trigger hook at the forward, upper nose of the trigger, ensuring the face of the tooth was square and sharp as it relates to the trigger hook when installed. I did note that the trigger hook angle seemed sharply undercut, not square to the striker tooth.
So after dressing both of these surfaces only to the extent of cleaning the edges and dressing them true, I reassembled and tested, only to find that a moderate smack to the action was still enough to get it to fire, so figured "back to the drawing board" and also began to look at the little coil spring that provides the trigger tension and powers the detent pin that the the safety lever rides across. When I stretched that original spring, the trigger felt better (less like a "hair trigger") and was resistive of following, but it gradually weakened and began to be able to be "fired" or snapped by a sharp rap to the bottom of the action. I presume that this was a combination of two things;
1. The spring returning to it's "pre-stretched" length and being old and weak anyway.
2. The striker/trigger hook surfaces hardness being compromised by dressing through the outer hardness layer?
Okay, the only other thing I did was to replace the trigger pivot pin with a larger diameter pin to reduce some of the extreme looseness and wobble that the trigger had. It now moves freely, but with less side to side slop.
Any ideas? Anybody? Are there other critical attributes to the trigger / striker measurements that I should know or anything else to check?
The gun as given to me had a non-functional safety and the striker (firing pin?) would follow down on bolt closure nearly 100% of the time.
I have worked on this old coot a good bit, and I have resolved the safety by adding a drop of weld on the safety blocking pad and dressing it down so that when engaged, there is metal under the rear of the trigger blade, blocking upward movement.
I then turned towards the issue of not staying cocked by looking at the striker "tooth" that engages the trigger hook at the forward, upper nose of the trigger, ensuring the face of the tooth was square and sharp as it relates to the trigger hook when installed. I did note that the trigger hook angle seemed sharply undercut, not square to the striker tooth.
So after dressing both of these surfaces only to the extent of cleaning the edges and dressing them true, I reassembled and tested, only to find that a moderate smack to the action was still enough to get it to fire, so figured "back to the drawing board" and also began to look at the little coil spring that provides the trigger tension and powers the detent pin that the the safety lever rides across. When I stretched that original spring, the trigger felt better (less like a "hair trigger") and was resistive of following, but it gradually weakened and began to be able to be "fired" or snapped by a sharp rap to the bottom of the action. I presume that this was a combination of two things;
1. The spring returning to it's "pre-stretched" length and being old and weak anyway.
2. The striker/trigger hook surfaces hardness being compromised by dressing through the outer hardness layer?
Okay, the only other thing I did was to replace the trigger pivot pin with a larger diameter pin to reduce some of the extreme looseness and wobble that the trigger had. It now moves freely, but with less side to side slop.
Any ideas? Anybody? Are there other critical attributes to the trigger / striker measurements that I should know or anything else to check?
