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simple, efficient reloading for 12 ga

Ttutt

Ttutt

.270 WIN
I just want simple. I'd like to have a middle of the road recepie for slug and 00 buck such that they share as many component types and powder as possible. the idea is that I won't have to go broke duplicating stuff.
I've tried researching it myself, but I don't know which components are equivalent. I hear of equivalencies, then I hear strong warnings to not work outside of established published data.

eventually I'd like to do some casting, but for now I'm looking at buying everything.

how likely is it to find data for slug and buck that use same hull, wads, powder and primer?
 
I am in the same boat as you! I am waiting for a reply from Oli. He may pull through for us! I am looking for primarily 00 Buck right now but if someone has information on Gualandi slugs that are sold by BPI, I'd explode with purchases of components haha
 
Whilst awaiting the return of Oli, I have purchased, with my Cabelas Club Points, this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/266146 ... ing-manual


Cabelas didn't have the current image to identify what I bought. But it was technically free for me to get with my points. It says Buck Shot and Slugs right on the front cover, so I sprung into action and bought it! I will share the information once I receive the manual :D
 
You did good. I haven’t used that but data from a book is where you want to start.

As far as components that work for for all…..it is possible but hear this out. I decided against it because I want to be able to tell my slugs and buck apart at first glance, that way it is just one more step in place so I don’t mix them up.

So although I don’t recommend one thing for both I have mine narrowed down to two type hulls , two powders one primer and three different wads……as far as going broke it won’t happen , especially if you have a way to cast the lead. Casting aside, all my hulls were scrounged from two gun clubs and the woods, free. The powder cost about 16 to 20 bucks a pound, roughly enough for 175 hot slug loads or 290 mid power 00 buck. The primers are Winchester 209 , they are about 30 bucks for a thousand. Wads are less than 10 bucks for 500.

As far as data, I am no longer using published data for only one reason. The cast stuff doesn’t fit in the hull the same as the factory shot. So I had to start to figure out loads that would let me fit all the components together and still have a good patterning load. For the slugs, I also am using “my” load based off of published data . Reason for that is I needed more room in the hull so I could put a hard nitro card under the slug to separate the slug from wad , much more accurate. So you see I can’t really just hand out my particular data unless you are using the same stuff as me and having the same problems as me, shooting from the same gun as me…….I think if you guys start reading data , play with loading and use factory made shot and slugs you can get it narrowed down and have great success using published data to a tee. I will help you get through anyway I can.

For now all my slugs are going into Remington gun club/premier sts/nitro 27(all the same construction hull) using Blue Dot and all my buck is going into Federal Gold Medal and top gun, not the same construction but I carefully have made a load that works in both well using Herco powder.
 
I am going to read through this manual and get a good idea of what it takes to load slugs. I understand Buckshot reloading pretty well, pretty much the same as Bird Shot. I am new to Nitro Cards and stuff like that so I need to learn some more on what the applications are for them. When to use them, when not too, etc... Thanks for the reply too Oli!
 
thank you my brother, have only had time to log on and read a little lately......










itsricmo
I use the nitro card under the Lee Key Drive cast 1 oz slug. It is not recommended by Lee, or any reloading manual. I learned by word of mouth that using this technique gives a clean separation between the wad and that slug. The key drive slug has a “key” across the base opening that engages the wad when shot. The reason is for shooting these slugs from a rifled barrel…..the riflings grip the wad and the wad grips the slug. Great idea that can be shot with reasonable accuracy inside 50 yards with a smoothbore. Using the hard nitro card under the slug prevents the key from engaging the wad and that in turn gives a clean separation of wad and slug giving the Lee slug much greater accuracy from a smoothbore.
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So these are the types of thing a manual wont provide. If you are using every component in a recipe to the tee including the shot you should not have to improvise, but if you do remember never go heavier in charge or payload. Also not all hulls are created equal, charges act different in them, lyman 5th edition shotshell manual has cross sections of most hulls or you can ask here.
 
Awesome! Thankyou for the quick tutorial!! I have 17lbs of lead that needs made into something.. im stuck between the lyman 1oz and the lee 525grn molds. Im probably going to wait for that manual to see what it uses. Hopefully something gives me good accuracy. Have you ever reloaded sabots?
 
the Lee comes with some data for most popular components. The lyman 5th has a lot of data for Lyman cast slugs. I havent done sabots but any slug that goes into a wad can be argued to be a sabot...but a sabot is solid so ??
 
Lol ill just stick with the 525 grainer if this manual i ordered has info in it! Seems to get plenty of great reviews. Thanks again for all the help, ill probably hit you up for some tips and tricks later :)
 
sounds good, I will also give you some data from the Lyman 5th on the 525 when you are ready to load. post some pics when your underway
 
I do the fold , but I would roll crimp if I had the stuff.....it fix some of my fit issues because the fold crimp was not staying shut.....but I did it the hard way instead
 
haha Alright! Thanks for the quick reply! I may get the equipment to do the roll crimps if I get good enough results from the slugs. I see a lot of stuff saying that the roll crimps are tricky at first but improve results really well
 
Got that reloading book today

Got that reloading book today in the mail:

Initial review, everything is very easy to read, although it is definitely photocopied instead of printed straight from a computer. It has a TON of loads, and sorted by Hull Type (example: Winchester AA, Federal Gold Medal). I have yet to find the loads for Slugs or Buckshot, but my understanding is that you have to do it by weight not shot type. So 9 pellets of buck shot is 1-1/8 ounces and a slug is 1 ounce... I am unsure of the 525 grain though, maybe Oli can enlighten a bit:


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I understand that a slug makes more pressure than shot.....same with buck. Shot absorbs more energy than a solid slug so that ups the chamber pressure, buck is somewhere in between the two. I would look for data specific to the payload you want, it will help with the fit of it all into the hull as well
 
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