how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light loads?
- Thread starter JamieB
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feegee
.410
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
I shoot a bunch of 3 gun, and all we shoot is low recoil slugs, buck, and bird shot. What you got to do is on the end of the gas port there is 2 rings make sure you turn the slots in them away from each other, and use some fine grit sand paper to smooth the gas tube, and finish it off with some scotch bright pads until it is baby butt smooth. Also run it with a little lube on the gas tube. With doing this I can run the 1100 fps pink Federal low recoil loads all day long. I can post some pics if you need me to.
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I shoot a bunch of 3 gun, and all we shoot is low recoil slugs, buck, and bird shot. What you got to do is on the end of the gas port there is 2 rings make sure you turn the slots in them away from each other, and use some fine grit sand paper to smooth the gas tube, and finish it off with some scotch bright pads until it is baby butt smooth. Also run it with a little lube on the gas tube. With doing this I can run the 1100 fps pink Federal low recoil loads all day long. I can post some pics if you need me to.
Sent from (NULL) Feegee's iPhone using Tapatalk
Mikey Idaho
Copper BB
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
Some pics would be great, getting 100% reliability with light loads is my goal with my new SPX Blackwater, only have less than 50 shells through it (the first 25 being heavy fast 3" hunting loads) but will get 100 through it this weekend.
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Some pics would be great, getting 100% reliability with light loads is my goal with my new SPX Blackwater, only have less than 50 shells through it (the first 25 being heavy fast 3" hunting loads) but will get 100 through it this weekend.
Sent from my Verizon Galaxy S III using Tapatalk 2
justin71105
Copper BB
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
Did this to mine this morning, going to try it out in a little while but also going to polish the chamber and gas port tonight.
--Still have 3 value packs of the Winchester universal shells I needed to get rid of so went and shot up one of them. Out of 100 shells I shot around 10 FTE vs around 40 out of my last 150 shells I shot.
Going to polish the chamber and gas port when I get time and go back out and see how it does. I did hit the majority of clays thrown this time though.
Did this to mine this morning, going to try it out in a little while but also going to polish the chamber and gas port tonight.
--Still have 3 value packs of the Winchester universal shells I needed to get rid of so went and shot up one of them. Out of 100 shells I shot around 10 FTE vs around 40 out of my last 150 shells I shot.
Going to polish the chamber and gas port when I get time and go back out and see how it does. I did hit the majority of clays thrown this time though.
breakingcontact
.410
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
Take off and clean the rings and piston if you haven't.
Take off and clean the rings and piston if you haven't.
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
what abrasives do you use to slick them up.on another note I've ported some Harley heads in my time and have different polishes from mag polish to jewelers ruse, any guide lines would be great. my main concern would be loosening the tolorances (sealing capabilities etc) loose gas piston in bore.take to much out can't put it back you know. is anything to worry about being too polished? thanks...
what abrasives do you use to slick them up.on another note I've ported some Harley heads in my time and have different polishes from mag polish to jewelers ruse, any guide lines would be great. my main concern would be loosening the tolorances (sealing capabilities etc) loose gas piston in bore.take to much out can't put it back you know. is anything to worry about being too polished? thanks...
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
I personally wouldn't use anything more abrasive than flitz or a light jewelers ruse. Not that it doesn't work but I just don't like removing too much material from anything on a firearm that benefits from a polish.
Unlike porting and polishing heads your not looking to change shape of anything and improve fuel/air flow but instead make metal to metal mating surfaces as slick as possible without removing any material of significance.
when folks take material in mating surfaces then you are in essence taking a couple years wear down in one swoop. It is a right now solution but if you can allow polished parts to wear into each other you will benefit in longer part and ring life.....think of it like rings seating into the cylinder instead.....you would never polish a cylinder and hope for a nice fitted seal of your rings
I personally wouldn't use anything more abrasive than flitz or a light jewelers ruse. Not that it doesn't work but I just don't like removing too much material from anything on a firearm that benefits from a polish.
Unlike porting and polishing heads your not looking to change shape of anything and improve fuel/air flow but instead make metal to metal mating surfaces as slick as possible without removing any material of significance.
when folks take material in mating surfaces then you are in essence taking a couple years wear down in one swoop. It is a right now solution but if you can allow polished parts to wear into each other you will benefit in longer part and ring life.....think of it like rings seating into the cylinder instead.....you would never polish a cylinder and hope for a nice fitted seal of your rings
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
again your getting my personal reasoning but when it comes to firearms mating surfaces, any drag is not desirable. I feel any mating surface on a firearm can benefit from polishing ....but be very aware that even if you round edges that are supposed to be square then it can change or compleatly render something inoperable, this especially applies the polishing trigger parts.
I see no reason polishing your mag tube would have a negative affect and I would think the shells would slid better.
Key to polishing is to ignore machining and tooling marks. If you try to remove groves from dull cutters or whatever, chances are you are approaching too much material removal. You can polish the ridges on tool marks on two mating surfaces and it will feel slick and smooth when functioning together, and as a rule of thumb keep edges square
again your getting my personal reasoning but when it comes to firearms mating surfaces, any drag is not desirable. I feel any mating surface on a firearm can benefit from polishing ....but be very aware that even if you round edges that are supposed to be square then it can change or compleatly render something inoperable, this especially applies the polishing trigger parts.
I see no reason polishing your mag tube would have a negative affect and I would think the shells would slid better.
Key to polishing is to ignore machining and tooling marks. If you try to remove groves from dull cutters or whatever, chances are you are approaching too much material removal. You can polish the ridges on tool marks on two mating surfaces and it will feel slick and smooth when functioning together, and as a rule of thumb keep edges square
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
oli700 you're a smart man. Your last posts are dead on and great advice.
On the 1911s and other toys I have tuned over the years polishing any surface where metal moves on metal is the first step. I wore out a couple of dremels learning these process' on hand guns. Next step is getting the gun to function 100% with the load you want to shoot by polishing feed ramps and any surface where the round travels through the system. Then find the right spring rate for for the load you are shooting. But... if you change the load you may have to change to spring. You can clip coils off of springs to lighten their rate but it's best to use the right length spring with a different weight (wire diameter). On my 45 I ran a 13 pound mainspring. Don't forget to bevel the loading wells and generally dehorn the exterior.
Then (in the handgun world) you can start playing with the different lubes to fine tune your tuning even more. Faster cycling is generally a good thing, but I used a heavier grease concoction that I mixed up on my slide rails to slow my slide down. It didn't slow me down in overall shooting time, it saved wear and tear on the guns and most importantly because of the reduced felt recoil it shrunk my split times for my second shots and made me overall faster. It wasn't much but it was something.
This is typically how the tuning process works, at least in my experience.
oli700 you're a smart man. Your last posts are dead on and great advice.
On the 1911s and other toys I have tuned over the years polishing any surface where metal moves on metal is the first step. I wore out a couple of dremels learning these process' on hand guns. Next step is getting the gun to function 100% with the load you want to shoot by polishing feed ramps and any surface where the round travels through the system. Then find the right spring rate for for the load you are shooting. But... if you change the load you may have to change to spring. You can clip coils off of springs to lighten their rate but it's best to use the right length spring with a different weight (wire diameter). On my 45 I ran a 13 pound mainspring. Don't forget to bevel the loading wells and generally dehorn the exterior.
Then (in the handgun world) you can start playing with the different lubes to fine tune your tuning even more. Faster cycling is generally a good thing, but I used a heavier grease concoction that I mixed up on my slide rails to slow my slide down. It didn't slow me down in overall shooting time, it saved wear and tear on the guns and most importantly because of the reduced felt recoil it shrunk my split times for my second shots and made me overall faster. It wasn't much but it was something.
This is typically how the tuning process works, at least in my experience.
Re: how do the speed shooters get there guns to run light lo
Thanks, your post was just as cool. I can relate directly to what you’re saying……one think I forgot to mention is to be careful on some parts that might have a surface hardening ……don’t want to polish through any hardening on sears or high wear parts because it will wear out and turn to crap pretty quick.
I know right what you mean about little tweaks to the guns, especially springs.
I have had both great success and great failure with springs
My most recent was a G29 recoil spring…..I was amazed what it did for the entire shooting experience going from a 17# to a 21# .
Since I have had it I really struggled to like it , love the 10mm round but didn’t care for the pistol.
The heavy spring made a big difference to me , first off I could find most of my brass and it ejects more consistently and doesn’t launch them 50ft , still a little crazy on direction but I have not once got hit in the face with brass since the change which I hated, it feels like it’s being easier on the pistol and not slamming the slide back as hard on ejection, and it locks the pistol up tighter and it just feels a lot more solid in general, as solid a super loose tolerance pistol can feel I think……between that , polishing those flat pieces of metal Glock calls trigger parts, and a ton of trigger time, and basically adapting to it , I really like it a bunch.
Recently added a CT railmaster to it and had another small improvement in grouping, don’t know why but using the laser in conjunction with the irons helped me learn a little better where the front sight wants to be held even after all the rounds I have shot through it.
The only other thing it could be is that it keeps me from wrapping my index finger around the front of the trigger guard……maybe that was hurting me too
Thanks, your post was just as cool. I can relate directly to what you’re saying……one think I forgot to mention is to be careful on some parts that might have a surface hardening ……don’t want to polish through any hardening on sears or high wear parts because it will wear out and turn to crap pretty quick.
I know right what you mean about little tweaks to the guns, especially springs.
I have had both great success and great failure with springs
My most recent was a G29 recoil spring…..I was amazed what it did for the entire shooting experience going from a 17# to a 21# .
Since I have had it I really struggled to like it , love the 10mm round but didn’t care for the pistol.
The heavy spring made a big difference to me , first off I could find most of my brass and it ejects more consistently and doesn’t launch them 50ft , still a little crazy on direction but I have not once got hit in the face with brass since the change which I hated, it feels like it’s being easier on the pistol and not slamming the slide back as hard on ejection, and it locks the pistol up tighter and it just feels a lot more solid in general, as solid a super loose tolerance pistol can feel I think……between that , polishing those flat pieces of metal Glock calls trigger parts, and a ton of trigger time, and basically adapting to it , I really like it a bunch.
Recently added a CT railmaster to it and had another small improvement in grouping, don’t know why but using the laser in conjunction with the irons helped me learn a little better where the front sight wants to be held even after all the rounds I have shot through it.
The only other thing it could be is that it keeps me from wrapping my index finger around the front of the trigger guard……maybe that was hurting me too