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500A Rolling Thunder

express

.410
hi everyone, great site!

i recently acquired a rolling thunder on a trade. my original intent was to resell it but i only have a few dollars into it so i have decided to keep it for HD. I plan on purchasing an ATI stock & forend as well as a Brownells safety which are both no brainers.

what i need help with (because i am a shotgun novice) is getting more rounds in the tube. it is supposed to be 5+1 but the tube will only accept 2 shells. i am assuming there is some type of restrictor plug in the tube. maybe a state law requirement? the gun did come from a different state. i'm sure its an easy deal but id like your opinions and what parts if any i would need to get it back to full capacity. i'll try to post pics. thanks

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welcome to a great site. yes there is a dowel plug from the factory. just do a search on dowel removal.
 
Take the barrel off and point the mag tube down and shake it.
The dowel will fall out.
It is in there to keep you legal while hunting.
 
So, out of morbid curiosity, can someone enlighten me as to what the can on teh end of those is supposed to be for. I find some of the mods and models coming out of Mossberg these days kind of baffling. This one of course, and the model with the big Barrett type muzzle brake on it,... what/who are these things supposed to be for?
 
it's listed as a "barrel stabilizer". I have been told by a few people that it is intended for a quicker, more accurate follow up shot as it helps keep the barrel down. one guy told me that SWAT uses these and calls them "door busters". he claimed they can hold them right against a deadbolt to blow it out without fear because all of the muzzle blast exits through the holes in the stabilizer. not sure how true that is.

I like the stabilizer because it gives me a great place to mount a light but I don't think i'll care for the overall length after I add an adjustable stock to it.
 
Light Options

ok i took the restrictor dowel out and now it's time to add HD accessories.

first up is a light. i'm thinking about going with the solarforce L2N. for the money i can't pass it up. "jimmycrackcorn" speaks highly of these affordable hosts/drop-ins in another thread. i want a single mode, bright & long lasting light on my Rolling Thunder

http://www.lighthound.com/Solar-Force-L ... _4146.html

for a new guy this stuff can be kind of confusing. and with a not so informational website i need help choosing the right drop-in and battery combo. the only drop-in i found with a lumens listing is the 350. does anyone know where i can find the lumens for the "unlisted" drop-ins? 350 is bright but if i can get brighter then hey why not? but run time is also important. i would like the light to have a decent beam. the many options for batteries is also overwhelming (two CR123"s or 16340's or one 18650) 3.7v vs. 3.7-8.4v etc. i understand that the more mAh the longer run time but i really just need someone to shed some light on this for me (no pun intended)
 
350 may be overkill for indoors.

You're gonna get enough light reflecting off of interior walls and surfaces to impair your own vision. The set-up I'm fond of is the ITAC-TFL2. It has 120 lumen output and runs off a single AA battery. Lights up a room in an instant and I haven't had to replace the battery in well over a year. I've got another 130 lumen light that runs off of a CR123 Lithium battery and I've had to replace the battery three times in the last year. I rarely use the lights, but the CR123 batteries still loose power much faster than most...
 
thx lazy! you make a great point on the self blinding effect. that is exactly why I don't want a strobe option on a gun light. my fenix has strobe and I find it difficult to stay focused. i'll have to check the lumens on it for comparison. i believe some of the solarforce drop-ins will run on either two cr123 or one AA.

is there a thread dedicated to tac lights here? I have searched and only found random mentions here and there.
 
Hi express,

In reply to your pm, If your having a hard time navigating Lighthound, I would suggest using the search feature. Looking for a drop-in... search ''drop-in"(with the dash). The bar is extremely small & its about half way down the left side of the of  every page. I just searched it & got exactly 50 different drop-ins. I don't have much knowledge on AA & AAA lights because I just don't have any

As far as your choice of "P60/D26" drop-ins.

XRE-R2: has lower lumens, max about 290lms w/a straight beam for throw not much beam spill. Used in a wide variety of older Streamlights & Surefires.

XPG-R5, S2: has mid range lumens, max about 350 for the R5 & 500lms for the S2 w/a straight beam with adequate beam spill. Now replacing the XRE in most of the name brand lights as they play catch up with the Chinese companies in the lumens game.

XML-T6, U2: has high lumens average about 450 to 800lms w/a floodier beam, big hotspot & very adequate beam spill. Some companies are pushing it to 1100lms.

"New''
XP-G2: Newer brother of XPG-R5 & XPG-S2. Same beam profile but higher lumens & a good neutral white. I haven't seen any in single drop ins yet. Seen it quoted around 560lms, I think..

As far as lumens go in any of these LEDs, its all about how hard they are driven. -amps.

These are the main three cree LEDs you will see on Lighthound or elsewhere. Not to confuse but there is different versions of each of those listed LEDs too.! Cool, neutral, warm, thus the different Bin tags like R5, T6 or S2, but I won't get into that, its too confusing as it is.

Candlepowerforums.com is a HUGE community of flashlight junkies & the word plethora doesn't even begin to explain the amount of knowledge to be learned on there. I suggest you check it out if your dipping your toes in building your own & trying to save moooolah cuz if you don't get it right you'll end up having to return, ship, buy, you'll be over a hundo before you know it & at that point you might as well have bought a new SF Fury an Elzetta or an tricked out Malkoff.

Batteries...
Cr123's- very long shelf life. 10yrs. Downside is, they can get pricey. But bulk ain't too bad. 3volts each. Some ppl argue availability in a SHTF situation but there around if you know where to get em, plus buy bulk & store for ten years, pretty impressive if u ask me.

Alkaline- cheap, readily available. Downside not a lot of juice & runtime to power the higher lumen lights, 2AA's end to end makes for a longer light host & might be too big for certain ppls preferences when talking the little real estate available on a SG forend. Alkalines have a 1.5 voltage, put two together you have 3v, YAY.. I can ADD HAHA!! In the drop in world, most drop-ins labeled "low voltage" mean for the use of ONE lion cell which means no more than 4.2v. You need to find something with a lower high end rating & an extremely low cut off voltage if you want those AA's to work with it.  As far as I know you will not get that 350 out of that drop-in using AA's or AAA's. It kinda works like this, http://www.lighthound.com/Lighthound-AA-Flashlight-Cree-U2-LED-_p_4130.html READ THE RATINGS BELOW, it might help explain differences. The 14500 is a AA sized lion. (Not to be confused with a energizer "lithium", its totally different) In other words you need disposable or rechargeable lions to achieve your 350 max unless your buying a complete dedicated AA light from some other company. Uggh this is confusing.. I know, explaining the best I can.:???:

Rechargeable Lions- When talking about a light that will be used everyday I would suggest these. & Yes rechargeable battery options, its just as mind boggling as the led versions.. Solarforce lights are generally produced to use 18650`s or CR123's. 16340' are rechargeable CR123's & so are RCR123's. Most rechargeables you will be putting into the light will have a 3.7volt nominal voltage. You will see the single 18650 cell drop-ins rated above 3.7 because when fully charged & hot off the charger the lions are usually 4.2volts so they produce the led driver to be able to handle that higher fresh of the charger voltage. So when deciding on what drop in you want you have to take what & how many you will be running into consideration. Rechargeable lions & IMR's will give you the most runtime & power out of any flashlight battery. Also, for a noob ( its ok..we all were once), I would only buy protected Lions, not unprotected. Disadvantages.. If you over discharge unprotected ones & then recharge, they have been known to have issues & become unstable. Lions whether they be protected or not, self discharge after so much time. I believe the amount of time were talking is months (someone correct me if I'm wrong please, I've just never tested the theory where as I use em all the time so I charge em all the time.)

In my opinion I would go with CR123's in a weapon light that might sit for years unused. Nailbender makes good drop-ins & ones dedicated for CR123's, but they can pricey... Another good Modder but not on Lighthound is a dude named Vinhguyen, you can find him on the candlepowerforums. Again, a really good place to learn everything I'm stating.

P60 HOSTS/BODIES
There are all sorts of configurations,
AAA
Built in a normal P60 size & use a special cradle to stack batteries inside of a the host.
AA
They are built longer than normal to accommodate the longer length. If they are not longer then the company will usually sell an adapter.

CR123/16340/RCR123/18650
These will be your most common host. Two CR123's are generally speaking the same length of an 18650. The diameter is just wider on the 18650, thus the reason they rattle inside of most Solar force hosts. The rattle is usually only a problem with the nit picky. Lol.

P60/D26 is an industry standard size for modular lights. Its a 34mm bezel size. I beleive it originated with Surefire & their 6P light which was modular, it stuck as the clones started to appear.

Oh yeah, I'm not a 100% sure but the L2N you mentioned in the PM doesn't take AA as far as I know. At least not without some adapter. I could be wrong though.

Here are some simple battery, light breakdown & drop-in breakdown w/the pill out of reflector comparisons for you. Biggest to smallest is 18650, RCR123, CR123, AA, AAA. All bare reflectors are P60/D26. Lights are Dereelight DBS w/a 46mm head & a custom screw in 1000lm XML-U2 pill, wicked old Surefire G2 w/a Lighthound XPG-R5, Surefire G2X w/a XP-G2 320lm, Solar force L2T w/a custom 1000lm XML-U2 drop-in.

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As you said you read some of my other posts about lights, Im actually eating my words & bought a Tan Single mode Surefire G2X. Reason being is because they recently upgraded it to a somewhat respectable 320 lumens, was selling at a great price point of $66 & matches nicley with the existing Tan on my 590a1 & breaks up the black.. You can get the older 200lm versions for almost $50. That's pretty cheap for a Surefire. Only catch is, they are not rated for weapons like they're brother the 6PX, but if I was to bet, I would say they will hold up better than the Solar force on a weapon, especially a 12ga. Don't get me wrong my solar forces are awesome for there ''lego-ability'' & option to mod w/a1000lm drop in, through SF that kind of output would probably equal $600. Lol.

Also, I beleive I have the $14 Lighthound XPG-R5 drop in you are thinking of buying but in a CR123/18650 rating. Its suppose to be rated at 350lms. In comparison to the XP-G2 that is in my upgraded Surefire G2X. I personally think the G2X is brighter even though its rated less. Its also a more pleasant beam, its a neutral white compared to a cool blue with the XPG-R5. All said & done you'll probably spend about $50 - $70 after shipping & adding things you want but don't need to your cart.:grin:
So maybe that Older G2X will work for you if you looking at price points.

I'm not sure if these pics will post & I apologize for the quality, just snapped em real quick in my basement with a crap cell cam. All are P60/D26 drop-ins

Here's a $14 XPG-R5 drop-in. Supposedly 350lm.
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Here is the new Surefire G2X with the XP-G2, notice the color difference. Nice neutral tone. SF Rated 320lm.
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Here is a VihnGuhyen XML-U2 driven to its full potential @4.2amps somewhere around 1000lms. (According to vendor)
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Here's the link for the drop-ins if you haven't already found it.
http://www.lighthound.com/search.asp?keyword=drop-in&search=GO

Here the Surefire G2X I just bought.
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/SureFire-G2X-Tactical-Single-Output-LED-p/sf-g2x-c-tn.htm

Heres its less expensive 200lm version
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/SureFire-G2X-Tactical-Single-Output-LED-Tan-p/sf g2x-a-tn.htm

Oh yeah, one more thing Express, Are you confused yet:lol:? Not trying to, just a lot of options when DIY'ing. It overwhelming most the time. How are you planning mounting the light & how are you planning on activating the light? I figured these two out the hard way after purchasing all the products I needed. Are you going to use a tape switch to connect way up there to a mount on the muzzle break? Or are you going to use a railed forend & activate w/your thumb? Are you going to use an offset mount to get a comfortable angle or a straight one with a tape switch. I've found that trying to manipulate the light when its on the opposite side of my cycling hand to be really tricky, never mind in a high stress situation. Same goes for having it directly under the for end right in front of my knuckles. I found it best for me to mount it with an offset up high left side easily accessible by my thumb.

Well that's all Express, my brain is taxed for now. If this didn't help any, I would suggest calling Lighthound & asking for a tech. They have an actual store down in TX & could probably explain all that in about 2 secs as oppose to reading about it all.

If anyone would like to add to what I have said or can correct me on anything, please do as I am no guru & what I discussed really just scratches the surface of options when it comes to what Express is trying to do.

Later Y'ALL!!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 
DAMN JIMMIY! I never expected this much info. Thx I really appreciate it! yes my head is spinning just a little bit. i'll need to read it over a few more times before it sets in but at first glance it might be best if i forget the builder lights and just go with a surefire for simplicity. that may change once i have time to read up a bit more. that VihnGuhen custom does look like something i "need" to have around the house!

as for where i plan on mounting the light, i thought the best location would be up front on the rail under the stabalizer. that way there are no shadows in the beam. seems to me that a side mounted light would always shadow some part of the weapon. now to activate it i have been going back and forth between tape switch and push button on the light. not sure if i can comfortably reach it way up there. i just want an on/off with no strobe and no two-level garbage. do the tape switches stay on or do you need to press the whole time?


options options options........... i need sleep................thanks again Jimmy
 
Hey no prob dude! I know I was dang confused with it all when I first started learning it.. Hell I still am. I stopped following it for a we months & BAM.. there a whole bunch of new tech out. Eagle Tac has some really cool lights too!

This is how I have my Surefire rigged up.
Easy them activation with a cheap mount I got off amazon for dirt cheap. Its surely not a tuff as a top teir brand would be but I'm also not clearing buildings on the daily like some guys on here are.

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Uggh.. need to paint that silly "UTAC" emblem!!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 
express said:
i just want an on/off with no strobe and no two-level garbage. do the tape switches stay on or do you need to press the whole time?

On an attempt to answer you question about the way the switches work, personally I've never used one, but of I was to guess I would say you could get them in any flavor you want depending on who you buy it from. With the limited research I did on it I did however get the vibe that you get what you pay for with the lower end ones & they are riddled with malfunctions. But on the other hand, that was just 5 mins viewing ratings on lighthounds multiple SolarForce brand tape switches. IMHO, I don't think I'd buy a solar force tape switch for anything other than some sort of novelty purpose. I'd ask Rossi Or Les, they would prolly have a more knowledgeable answer for ya.

So once you figure out your light & tape switch compatibility, your most comfortable mounting position & the light mount you need to get all that to come together your gunna need a way to mount the switch end of things. If you forsee a railed forend in the future you might want to consider one of these. They are made by Egro grips & they fit directly on a pic rail. They came in all the different designer tuff guy flavors too, Black, ODG & Dark Earth.. dang they don't got pink! Browse the site a bit, they got some cool stuff for SG. They also got wire looms to hold the wire in place but it doubles as a rail cover. Especially cool is their railed forend. Rossignol has one on his beloved 590, its pretty sweet.

Here's the link
http://ergogrips.net/products/rail-accessories/ergo-tactical-light-switch-mount-dark-earth.html

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thx again Jimmy! i will continue to research and get it narrowed down to less than 10000000 options soon :lol: it all depends on what mrs. claus puts under the tree this year. she's the type to get me at least one or two things from my list and she makes me give her several ideas in an attempt to fool me. but this year everything on my list was either for my glocks or shotty :cool: she hates the fact that i can guess my gifts. i do know that the one present under the tree resembles 300-500 rounds of 40 s&w so hopefully shotty accessories are next....
 
went to fleet farm the other day and the wife and step son were acting pretty funny when I was checking out the ATI stocks! LOL like I said she usually gets me a few things from my xmas list :D I then tossed a light mount in the cart and said "stocking stuffer" as she smiles at the boy. I know it's the giving season and I am a very generous man but I can't help but shop for myself a bit this time of year ;)
 
my wife gave me a couple nice xmas gifts this year. an ATI Talon stock/forend (A.1.10.1145) and a UTG flashlight ring (#860). i installed the stock which i am really happy with. the fit and finish is top notch and the grip feels amazing in the hand. i did not expect that at all. the material used on the backstrap area feels like the most comfortable pair of shoes you've ever worn and i'm sure it absorbs a bit of energy. WAY TO GO ATI!!! i did however decided against the forend. nothing wrong with it i just really like the way the factory one feels in my hand along with the strap. i also decided against installing the cheekrest. again nothing wrong with it but this is a HD gun so no need for it. not much to say about the light ring other than it seems well made and solid and i need to find a light for it.

the gun now measures 40 7/8" fully collapsed and 44 5/8" fully extended. a bit longer than i'd like and i may look for a different barrel in the future.

pics aren't the best

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What kind of light did you end up with? Kinda reminds me of a Fenix or Eagle-Tac AA series.? Am I close?

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