10mm reloading
- Thread starter oli700
- Start date
Hah!
The "women and pansy" one is a GREAT ripoff of the .45ACP vs. 9mm classic, right?
And the stick-man doodling done with with MS Paint was originally on The High Road.com about 10-12 years ago.
It was an instant cult classic!
Ahhhhh....... memories. The kids grow up so fast, don't they?
The "women and pansy" one is a GREAT ripoff of the .45ACP vs. 9mm classic, right?
And the stick-man doodling done with with MS Paint was originally on The High Road.com about 10-12 years ago.
It was an instant cult classic!
Ahhhhh....... memories. The kids grow up so fast, don't they?
Don’t know about any of that.....I saw them for the first time the other day and thought they were funny, the only thing I know about women and pansys is that they were the reason the fbi got rid of the 10 in favor of the 40S&W…..too many whiners bitching about recoil
GOT ME SUM
AA #9 !
200 Gold Dots !
250 XTP's !
1000 large pistol primers !
250 Starline brass !
GETTN' ME SUM
180 grain FMJ .......anyone ever use Everglades Ammunition & Reloading :?: :?:
they have 500 180 grain Full Metal Jacketed for 67 bucks shipped.....to me this seems like a good deal. If anyone knows a better deal for jacketed please share.
Also have 200 more Starline Brass on the way.....
AA #9 !
200 Gold Dots !
250 XTP's !
1000 large pistol primers !
250 Starline brass !
GETTN' ME SUM
180 grain FMJ .......anyone ever use Everglades Ammunition & Reloading :?: :?:
they have 500 180 grain Full Metal Jacketed for 67 bucks shipped.....to me this seems like a good deal. If anyone knows a better deal for jacketed please share.
Also have 200 more Starline Brass on the way.....
Bill~
Never have so far. I still have a coupld hundred plateds and jacketed to last me for now. Next year I might get a mould and give it a try when I get depleted.
I've read that shooting .40S&W ammo is not only "do-able" in an unmodified G29 but is pretty easy, so that might be a way to shoot my 29 really cheap instead of getting into casting and trying lead bullets. The case rim slides up under the extractor and the case mouth isn't required to headspace the cartridge so I'm gonna possibly try it.
Or maybe get a .40S&W barrel for a hundred bucks and skip the mould idea.
Never have so far. I still have a coupld hundred plateds and jacketed to last me for now. Next year I might get a mould and give it a try when I get depleted.
I've read that shooting .40S&W ammo is not only "do-able" in an unmodified G29 but is pretty easy, so that might be a way to shoot my 29 really cheap instead of getting into casting and trying lead bullets. The case rim slides up under the extractor and the case mouth isn't required to headspace the cartridge so I'm gonna possibly try it.
Or maybe get a .40S&W barrel for a hundred bucks and skip the mould idea.
nitesite said:
Interesting on the head space deal.......
Reason I am asking is because what I have gathered, it’s hard to beat the 200 grain hard cast for wounded bear killing, or any woodland problem one might encounter. I know I would need a different barrel.....and a mold. Probably would need to get serious with the alloy mix and harnesses too....I would love a 200g HC at 1300fps for hunting trips but the 180g XTP's got to leave a mark. Didn’t think the 10mm was going to open up so many choices, the cartridge really has so many application I can’t believe it’s not more popular…….as always thanks for the opinions and knowledge
nitesite said:
Dude you werent lying were you :shock:
This is a bull elk my reloading friends…..if you haven’t hunted one they are tough animals. This guy’s shot is familiar and one reason I packed my 12g/w slugs in brushy spots during elk season. Getting a scope on one in the brush at 20, 30 yards can be tough
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr2IG6t85Jg&feature=related[/youtube]
Not legal to do during rifle/elk here but I have a damage control tag for a cow elk in an orchard…I can use it there…
Dave , saleen322 or any other reloaders out there I am interested in what you think a good load would be for this :?: .
In the beginning of the video the guy shows some HP’s but who knows what he shot the elk with……I am really considering a 5 inch barrel and 200 or possibly 220g hard cast.
I have seen some gel testing of the 200 gr XTP and they do penetrate well and really remind me of what a good hunting slug should look like when recovered……but that’s gel and not elk bones :geek: .
Hickock45 has a Glock 10mm video on YouTube where he shot the WFNGC 230-gr hard cast load (think it was Buffalo Bore, may have been Double Tap). The bullet was too long to be stabilized with the factory barrel twist. He couldn't hit ANYTHING, and he had keyholing on paper at only 30-FEET!
So I would feel good with around 200-gr as a MAX with a stock barrel.
Now, with an aftermarket barrel with a faster twist he had no problem accurately shooting the long/heavy bullet. But those barrels inhibit maximum achieveable velocity (some say) because even though aftermarkets generally have tighter chambers the GLOCK rifling still allows a higher velocity.
So I would feel good with around 200-gr as a MAX with a stock barrel.
Now, with an aftermarket barrel with a faster twist he had no problem accurately shooting the long/heavy bullet. But those barrels inhibit maximum achieveable velocity (some say) because even though aftermarkets generally have tighter chambers the GLOCK rifling still allows a higher velocity.
No, I'm not so sure of that. I think if I could TRY a 200- or 210-gr hard cast in a stock barrel for accuracy I would. Yeah, land and groove rifling would help to spin the heavy lead bullet maybe a little better. I hear that some aftermarket barrels have faster twist rates but I've never really looked into it, oli. The barrel twist rate isn't because of a bullets WEIGHT needing to be stabilized, it's because of its LENGTH.
The problem is getting only a couple dozen heavy cast WFNGCs to try without buying a crapload of 'em, like 250 or so!
And if after trying heavy hard cast bullets in an OEM barrel didn't work the way you wanted, I'd just drop the idea for now.
Then, I would really put my faith in a 200-gr XTP going as hard as SAAMI specs allow in a GLOCK OEM barrel and just call it good.
Really, getting 10~20 more grains of cast lead bullet to go maybe <100-fps faster than an XTP is not that big a deal.......
The problem is getting only a couple dozen heavy cast WFNGCs to try without buying a crapload of 'em, like 250 or so!
And if after trying heavy hard cast bullets in an OEM barrel didn't work the way you wanted, I'd just drop the idea for now.
Then, I would really put my faith in a 200-gr XTP going as hard as SAAMI specs allow in a GLOCK OEM barrel and just call it good.
Really, getting 10~20 more grains of cast lead bullet to go maybe <100-fps faster than an XTP is not that big a deal.......
saleen322
.410
Penetration is the critical factor when selecting a round for large game. This is the same reason that heavy rifles for African dangerous game like the 577 Nitro Express, the 460 Weatherby Magnum, etc most often use a solid bullet like those made by Barnes. Since the bullet doesn’t expand and it holds together properly, the highest velocity yields the best penetration. However the rules change with expanding bullets. Manufacturers design a bullet jacket to perform within a specific velocity range. Go slower or even faster than the design limits, the penetration is usually less. I took a 165 bullet and shot it out of a .308 Winchester and a .308 Norma Magnum. The Norma hit the wet catalogs in spectacular fashion and tore a huge hole but the Winchester actually drove a small hole deeper as it expanded slower so it was not pushing as much surface area.
Well to use the same principle for handguns the fastest is not always the best for penetration. I would do some testing with various velocities using a controlled expanding bullet like the Hornady XTP or a cast bullet. The term hard cast can be misleading as well. I once lost a silhouette pistol match because my cast bullets had so much antimony in them to make them hard so I could shoot them faster but they shattered on the ram and would not knock them down. Good cast bullets should be in the Brinell Hardness 15 – 16 range, lower or higher is not better. Go for penetration first, accuracy second and velocity third. Just my 2 cents and I hope this helps.
Well to use the same principle for handguns the fastest is not always the best for penetration. I would do some testing with various velocities using a controlled expanding bullet like the Hornady XTP or a cast bullet. The term hard cast can be misleading as well. I once lost a silhouette pistol match because my cast bullets had so much antimony in them to make them hard so I could shoot them faster but they shattered on the ram and would not knock them down. Good cast bullets should be in the Brinell Hardness 15 – 16 range, lower or higher is not better. Go for penetration first, accuracy second and velocity third. Just my 2 cents and I hope this helps.
Thanks my friend
I shot some more today and I am feeling real good with the pistol at this point. Just out using different rests like trees and downed logs, shooting prone. I am improving for sure.....this pistol throws brass all over hell, lost 4 today :x
Can’t wait to get my fmj’s, load me some AA#9…..some gold dots, just so much to look forward to. So far the 10mm has been a great adventure
I shot some more today and I am feeling real good with the pistol at this point. Just out using different rests like trees and downed logs, shooting prone. I am improving for sure.....this pistol throws brass all over hell, lost 4 today :x
Can’t wait to get my fmj’s, load me some AA#9…..some gold dots, just so much to look forward to. So far the 10mm has been a great adventure