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49buc 80% glock

Discussion in 'Hot Deals' started by Djcala, Aug 31, 2017.

  1. Djcala

    Djcala .30-06 Supporter

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  2. John A.

    John A. I'm "THAT" guy Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator

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    Yeah, I looked into one just to say I made it, but by the time you bought the components to complete it, I'd be in it for about $600, which is not appealing to me at all.
  3. Djcala

    Djcala .30-06 Supporter

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    You can build one now for about 425 give or take abit. Which is what a new blue label glock seems to be running and i see used ones for 325 to 400 pretty regular. So its definetly not something everyone may want to do from a dollar stand point.
  4. John A.

    John A. I'm "THAT" guy Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator

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  5. Djcala

    Djcala .30-06 Supporter

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    One of the lgs here had a couple ar 80s in couple weeks ago. They were sitting right nest to to 45.00 Anderson lowers but he wanted 75 bucs for one ? I just couldnt wrap my head around that im sure there have to be decent ones for a more competative price for what your getting. Did you do a poly or an aluminum? Id think poly easier with basic tools but possibly easier to screw up too. What say you @John A.
  6. John A.

    John A. I'm "THAT" guy Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator

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    Skip the plastic 80%'s.

    Several of us here made the mistake of buying some a few years ago and they were "substandard" to say the least.
    ripjack13 likes this.
  7. Djcala

    Djcala .30-06 Supporter

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    Ok good to know.
  8. John A.

    John A. I'm "THAT" guy Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator

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    I missed your question.

    I did one of each actually (plastic and poly).

    The plastic was demilled due to out of spec fire control part pin holes being out of spec.

    By demilled, I mean it was torch cut and melted.

    The aluminum lower however, turned out correct and proper and like it should've.

    But there are differences in the lower jigs.

    Whichever jig you get, make sure the fire control pin hole markings are on both sides of the jigs rather than the jigs that only have holes on a single side only because the ones that just have holes drilled on one side, you can easily use that hole, but the bit not be straight and cause an issue of it not being perfectly straight when it drills through both sides of the lower.

    If you notice, this one is bad and only has the trigger/hammer/selector hole on one side of the jig
    [​IMG]

    This one has the fire control holes on both sides of the jig and is the better style to use. It's a few dollars more expensive, but eliminates hours of work lost and a billet wasted.

    [​IMG]
  9. Ak47Lover

    Ak47Lover Copper BB

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    Last edited: Apr 29, 2018
  10. MikeD

    MikeD I'm Your Huckleberry Staff Member Global Moderator "Philanthropist"

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    The quality of the jig is a big factor in the quality of the end result.

    If you only plan on finishing one it will.cost you a lot more than just buying a serialed lower.

    But if you want an unserialed lower it may be worth the price for you.

    It becomes more cost effective the more you complete.

    I completed a polymer lower in my jig and it came out good, but the jig positioned the holes in slightly different spots than were marked on the base blank. The only flaw was due to operator error as it was my first go at it.

    I just orderred a second jig only because I need to be able to finish a project my original jig cannot do.

    It's definitely fun to make you own.
    John A. likes this.
  11. Bobster

    Bobster .30-06 Supporter

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    There is a farcebuk group "80%builder" I belong to. Lots of good info (and typical FB nonsense comments) from members of the group regarding all manner of converted paperweights... ;)

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