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Adding length to a Barnett youth stock

John A.

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Yes, a Barnett.

Crossbow.

About 2 or 3 years ago, MikeD got us hooked on crossbows. And in that time, I've since bought another.

The latest is a Barnett Recruit Compound. I looked on their website and they offer several different versions of that bow now, but the one I have isn't even listed anymore. It was a youth stock, but with around 320 fps velocity, which is a lot greater than their current lineup of youth bows. But for the distance we hunt, 320 fps is more than adequate.

And tends to be easier on the arrows (or bolts if you prefer) than the very high speed bows are concerned.

Me and my youngest son usually fights over which one of us are going to use the recruit because it is lighter, and smaller width too making it a lot easier to hunt with, but when I get to use it, the youth stock is way short for my length of pull and it's hard to get a good sight picture with the scope that's on it.

I have been putting a padded shotgun stock slip on cover on it, which does give it about another inch, but it's still not really "right" for me.

So, I ordered some 1/4" aluminum rods and am going to replace the short (maybe 2 inch long) rods on the youth stock with two that are about 7 inches each. That should give me some room to adjust so both of us can use it more comfortably while subtracting the length that will be inserted into the butt pad and inside of the stock itself for support.

But I'll warn you ahead of time, if you try this mod, removing the old aluminum rods out of the butt pad of the crossbow is a royal pain.

Seriously.

Best I can tell, the factory rods are threaded on the end that are in the pad about 3/8" long. And probably 1/4-20 pitch if I were guessing.

BUT, the rods appear to be put in position in the mold then the plastic is poured around them.

What this does is anchors the aluminum pins/rods, but the pad won't be threaded all the way out. The pins will turn by using some pliers, but won't really back out without some gentle encouragement.

OK, gentle encouragement isn't really the right word.

You have to pull them straight out manually and forcefully like pulling teeth. After you work it some and get it started coming out, it's not so bad, but you don't want to rock the pins back and forth because you'll crack the thin plastic around where the pins go and then you'll end up having to use a lot of epoxy glue to fix it back. Yeah, you really don't want to have to do that.

Once you get the pins out, you can simply mix some epoxy glue and put down in the holes and seat the new pins in place. Or at least, that's the plan. I haven't gotten the aluminum rods in the mail yet, but I'll update once I do with a picture of how it turned out.

So far, so good.

barnett recruit 001.JPG

Here is a web photo of essentially the same bow stock.

78653-recruit-youth-100-tan-1.png
 
Just to complete the topic so to not have an open one floating around, here is the photo after I finished it this morning.

The new legs were cut to 7 inches in length, although 2 inches are recessed in the stock and the pad itself.

I initially installed the new aluminum rods in the appropriate holes and tightened the set screw against them, essentially dimpling the metal.

Afterwards, I used a starter punch in the dimples and drilled all the way through the new aluminum rods so the set screw will recess far below the surface and lock the rods in place to prevent them from being pulled out inadvertently getting snagged on brush or something while hiking to my spot.

Now the scope eye relief is perfect when I flop my head over onto the stock.

In hindsight, I may should have used steel rods. The aluminum may be fine, but steel being stronger may would be a better choice. Or perhaps even bronze. Time will tell. Worst case, I switch to a different metal down the road. This will get me through this deer season.


recruit 003.JPG
 
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