Well said.
Another 80% AR lower
- Thread starter John A.
- Start date
I know it's been probably too long to revive the thread, but I just wanted to add a quick note without starting a whole new topic for something this minor.
There are some lowers that are safe/fire marked. This one was not however. Which while I appreciate the plain wrapper, it's been bugging me that it's not marked. Not necessarily for my benefit, but for everyone else that shoots it that are not as familiar with them.
So, I thought of a way to mark it and used a 3/32 drill bit to just barely kiss (dimple) the surface just enough to make a little divot so I could color fill. Used the typical HK color code. White safe, red fire.
I know that I mentioned it earlier, but the anodizing was pretty thin, so I also put a coat of cerakote on it. All this has been put off and I finally stopped procrastinating today and did it.
There are some lowers that are safe/fire marked. This one was not however. Which while I appreciate the plain wrapper, it's been bugging me that it's not marked. Not necessarily for my benefit, but for everyone else that shoots it that are not as familiar with them.
So, I thought of a way to mark it and used a 3/32 drill bit to just barely kiss (dimple) the surface just enough to make a little divot so I could color fill. Used the typical HK color code. White safe, red fire.
I know that I mentioned it earlier, but the anodizing was pretty thin, so I also put a coat of cerakote on it. All this has been put off and I finally stopped procrastinating today and did it.
I completed machining this lower a long time ago, thanks to your help. I don't recall the timeline, but it was several hours behind the controls because I took pains with it trying to do the best I could. I don't think I even completed it in the same day, but that was by choice.
I have used it some, but it's not generally one of my first grabs because of the lack of selector markings, which again, was not really that ideal for people who are not very familiar with the AR.
But that's probably going to change now. I can foresee it getting used a lot more often now.
While I suppose each of my guns that I have worked on have some form of sentimental value, I think I have a little more pride in showing this one off.
I have a few I want to finish off. Mine are unfinished (i.e silver, no black anodizing) so I would prefer to spray and bake them all at once.
I have a whole list of projects but cannot seem to get enough time to get far on any one of them.
I have a whole list of projects but cannot seem to get enough time to get far on any one of them.
From this experience, the anodizing was really poor on it. It had a lot of shiny spots worn through just from the jig and the milling process, which shouldn't have had any bearing on it whatsoever, but it did.
And why I painted it.
Cerakote is the best finish, next to anodizing that you can put on it Mike. There are 2 types. the kind that you have to mix with a hardener and bake afterwards, or air cure. The air cure is pretty tough in its' own right on scopes and plastic and such that you wouldn't want to bake. But the 2 part/bake is a little better overall.
A 4 oz bottle will do many lowers. Or complete guns and accy's too for that matter.
And why I painted it.
Cerakote is the best finish, next to anodizing that you can put on it Mike. There are 2 types. the kind that you have to mix with a hardener and bake afterwards, or air cure. The air cure is pretty tough in its' own right on scopes and plastic and such that you wouldn't want to bake. But the 2 part/bake is a little better overall.
A 4 oz bottle will do many lowers. Or complete guns and accy's too for that matter.
I'm familiar with bake cure cerekote. I used it on my 835 a while back. I figured a quick blast with the sandblaster would give the lowers enough texture to make the cerekote stick. It's still holding up on the 835.