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Bolt on the 930 won't close fully forward?!

Dirtweed

.22LR
Hey Guys,

OK I'm not that versed in tearing down Mossberg's like I am an 1100, but when I put it back together after I had it dipped in camo when I load a shell and close the bolt and the shotgun is on it's side the bolt will not move all the way forward and it will give me a light strike on the pin and not fire the round. If I move the handle back a bit and then forward the gun will fire. Now after I load it and if I close the bolt with it held in the orientation I would to fire it the bolt closes all the way and it will fire.

I've torn it down a couple of times and made sure all was good inside and it seemed fine, but it acts the same...I've also tried with the original bolt handle and with the JM-like handle I bought.

Thanks

Darrin
 
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seems like it is getting hung up on its way into battery. are the rails, bolt and slide properly lubricated? Is there any burrs or obstruction in the receiver hanging up the bolt or slide?
 
It is lubed, I'm using G96 on it. I'll tear it down tonight and run cheese cloth on the interior to see if I get any
hang ups on the rails or the moving parts.

Battery....that is the term I was looking for. :)
 
Just trying to diagnose this problem only started occurring after you dipped it in camo correct?
 
When you take it down again, I would pay particular attention to the trigger assembly.

There may be something out of place or even missing that is preventing the slide and bolt or lifter mechanisms from moving freely. If you don't see anything next time you have it apart, post up some pics and we'll have a look...
 
Yes this didn't happen until I got it back from Color and Camo, but the trigger stayed with me and didn't make the trip to Illinois for the dip and I didn't see any parts
on my desk. I'll post pics when I get it apart. Picked up my new 2014 Ram 1500 tonight so no time to play with the shotguns.
 
Do you have a rail or sight mounted on top of the receiver? If so, it's possible that the screws are a bit too long and protruding into the receiver.
 
Nothing on the receiver at all. (I did have that happen to my 10/22 the other day though)
Still haven't torn it down yet. Trying to get to it this afternoon.
 
something must be causing friction in the receiver. It might be the coating. If it is you will probably have to cycle the firearm manually for a while to wear down the coating so it will run smoother.
 
Just tore it apart and there doesn't seem to be anything in there blocking it and the only coating is the original
stuff in there from the factory the camo is not on the inside. I will pull apart the bolt tonight to see if there is
anything in there and the trigger looks OK to me. Maybe you are right and it just needs to be shot a little
more to break in.
 
Has anyone else had this issue? This recently happened to me as well, but it happened after I put about 300-450 rounds through it (maybe not even that much)... I purchased the Duck Commander Edition, so it was already dipped. Are there any other fixes out there? I have taken it apart several times and haven't noticed anything wrong with it, and it is well oiled...
 
I have not experienced this but am curious.

When you tore it down to have it dipped did you remove the stock and buffer tube? Could they have when they dipped it? If anything gets in that tube and affects the forward motion of the spring plunger it could cause the bolt to not have enough forward momentum to close all the way.

If you do take it apart be careful. I removed mine a short time ago to replace the spring plunger with a OR3GUN part. Mine had horrible burs where the holes were drilled for the retaining pin. It did not affect operation but it scored the spring plunger when I attempted to remove it.
 
I don't have an answer for you -but over the years I have torn down many a gun ; only to have problems when I put it back together . This is a fact of life for me .
Fortunately ............I can come here and seek the advice of some very knowledgeable and helpful folks .
 
Has anyone else had this issue? This recently happened to me as well, but it happened after I put about 300-450 rounds through it (maybe not even that much)... I purchased the Duck Commander Edition, so it was already dipped. Are there any other fixes out there? I have taken it apart several times and haven't noticed anything wrong with it, and it is well oiled...
Several things can cause this on a semi. To cover most of them in a single session:

Detail strip your weapon.
  • Use a needle file to lightly chamfer the edges of the locking lug where it plugs into the barrel extension.
  • Use 200 grit wet/dry paper to lightly polish the barrel extension where the lug engages. (When you reassemble, place a dollop of grease in this area.)
  • Lightly chamfer the leading edges of the bolt rails, where they meet the receiver rails.(Apply a modest amount of grease to the rails on reassembly.)
  • Remove your spring and plunger from the mainspring tube.
  • Cut a patch from a green 3M pad and engage it with a 12g wire-loop jag. It should take slight effort to get it into the tube, when sized correctly.
  • Chuck the end of the cleaning rod (attached to the jag) in a hand drill, drizzle penetrating oil (Marvel, or similar) down the tube, and spend the next 2-3 minutes running the patch up and down the length of the tube at "mid-range" speed.
  • Spray degreaser down the tube to flush it out, clean with a patch, and apply a VERY LIGHT coat of oil.
Lots of folks run their 930s really wet. I'm at the other extreme- I use dry-lube everywhere except the bolt/receiver rails and the bolt lug/recess. Nary a problem. YMMV, etc., etc..
 
Several things can cause this on a semi. To cover most of them in a single session:

Detail strip your weapon.
  • Use a needle file to lightly chamfer the edges of the locking lug where it plugs into the barrel extension.
  • Use 200 grit wet/dry paper to lightly polish the barrel extension where the lug engages. (When you reassemble, place a dollop of grease in this area.)
  • Lightly chamfer the leading edges of the bolt rails, where they meet the receiver rails.(Apply a modest amount of grease to the rails on reassembly.)
  • Remove your spring and plunger from the mainspring tube.
  • Cut a patch from a green 3M pad and engage it with a 12g wire-loop jag. It should take slight effort to get it into the tube, when sized correctly.
  • Chuck the end of the cleaning rod (attached to the jag) in a hand drill, drizzle penetrating oil (Marvel, or similar) down the tube, and spend the next 2-3 minutes running the patch up and down the length of the tube at "mid-range" speed.
  • Spray degreaser down the tube to flush it out, clean with a patch, and apply a VERY LIGHT coat of oil.
Lots of folks run their 930s really wet. I'm at the other extreme- I use dry-lube everywhere except the bolt/receiver rails and the bolt lug/recess. Nary a problem. YMMV, etc., etc..

Amen to the dry lube. That's really all I use on my 930 SPX. Horandy's one shot is the cats meow.
 
If they put the return spring on the wrong side of the pusher assembly the bolt will bounce back and not fully close.
Open the bolt and if the pusher assembly rods are extending into the receiver, there's your problem.

I ain't saying how I know this.
 
Remove the trigger group, let the bolt close.

If the bolt does not fully close. remove the barrel, spacer tube, recoil spring, and pusher assembly.

Place barrel back in the receiver, push the bolt into the barrel.

Does it lock up properly?

If so, place the trigger back into the receiver and pull the bolt all the way back and push it back towards the barrel, does the bolt lock up correctly?

If so, reassemble and test again...

If not, let us know.
 
If they put the return spring on the wrong side of the pusher assembly the bolt will bounce back and not fully close.
Open the bolt and if the pusher assembly rods are extending into the receiver, there's your problem.

I ain't saying how I know this.


This is my guess. Long shot beat me to it. O yeah, don't ask me how I know bout the spring/plunger mixup either.
 
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