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Cleaning a 185D-B

Woodstock

Woodstock

.22LR
Hi all,

I'm in the process of inheriting a 185D-B (bolt action 20 gauge)

I'll be the third generation in my family to own it but the first to consider it's maintenance. It still works fine due to regular use but I want to get started on preventative maintenance. Anyone know where I can find one of those cool "exploded" parts manuals? I've done some google searches but nothing has shown up for this model specifically. Should I contact Mossberg?

After some superficial cleaning I'd like to take it apart this winter (very methodically of course) and clean the gun from top to bottom so that it may last another three generations or more.
I'll probably be asking some questions about cleaning when I get started on that project.

And not trying to be snarky but I already know that Havlin and Numrich offer spare parts. Maybe they would have that manual though?

Thanks
 
Congrats on your taking over a family gem.:)

Here's a pic that might help you in your project,,,,,
185D.jpg
 
Thanks! This will give me something to familiarize myself with the gun and its parts before I go taking it apart.
 
Bringing this thread back to life!

I am going to go take some photos of the gun and various things I have questions about. Post them up here in the next bit and start asking.

I will also inventory what gun cleaning solvents and lubricants I have. It is all hand-me-downs so while I have an idea of what the different stuff is about I don't know for sure.

Hope you are still with me @ripjack13
 
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Woodstock said:
Yeah and I couldn't see a way to delete it. I have figured it out though. These photos will be posted!
Click to expand...

You should be able to edit any of your posts....but if you want, i can delete it...
 
Last edited:
Alright! I'll post the photos with some descriptions first then ask the questions.

Here it is broken down.

Breakdown.JPG

The makers stamp
MakersStamo.JPG

The stock
Stock.jpg

Underside of the barrel just forward of the receiver, what I imagine is close to the original finish
OrigBlueing.JPG

Side view of the barrel highlighting the amount of original blueing that is gone.
BarrelTarnish.JPG

Some wear marks just below the action
Action.JPG

The bolt
Bolt.jpg

Cleaning and care solvents
Cleaning.JPG
 
First question/concern is the blueing (or lack thereof) on the barrel/receiver.
I've read that there are three different ways to blue. Some may be easier but less effective than others? Or is this something I should leave for a professional? I've done a fair amount of rust removal/refinishing on axe heads and other less sensitive tools, is this a manageable step up in complexity?

Secondly, on the stock there is water damage. I've done a lot of woodworking and refinishing but I'm curious what is recommended for wooden stocks... I have lots of BLO!

On the photo of the receiver/action there seem to be some "chattering marks" where the blueing has been worn away. I imagine the re-blueing process will fix this but am curious what would have caused it.

The bolt - Can I shine this up with 3-1 oil and a scotchbrite pad? Would the Remington oil or Hoppes #9 be good for scrubbing it too?
 
I have never recovered anything quite that bad as far as the metal is concerned. Some I have bought had lots of rust though and I used a Big45 Frontier pad to take the rust off without taking the bluing off. Yours however looks to need re-bluing. I will probably get someone to do my re-bluing for me as I have a few friends with tanks. Cold blue I have done on spots to touch up. Not sure yet about the stock stain. I have a 151M with a similar stain that I haven't got at yet. I will be watching to see how you make out with the stain. I have a 185KA which I haven't shot yet. I have shot my 195 and one of my 200 pumps. Both are nice handling firearms.
 
@John A. May be able to help with the blueing....

As for the stock, sand it down. Then use some pre stain conditioner. I can get a pick of the brand can I use.
That keeps the blotching from appearing.
 
Luckily, most of it looks like surface rust and not pitted deep. That's good.

If you're going to reblue it or refinish it with one of the airbrush paints, I recommend going over all of the metal parts with a metal brush to get the majority of the rust off, then go over it with some fine grit sandpaper.

Z0rBuuncpEx_.JPG


Brownells Oxpho Blue is probably among the best cold blue out there. I also like Birchwood casey gun blue paste too.
 
It's important to get off all the rust but some rust you just can't get too mechanically.

Ospho make some very good rust converters, which will get into the microscopic pits that wire brushes and sandpaper cannot reach without overstanding the metal. I also use Jasco metal prep, now called Jasco Prep and Primer. Both of them have phosphoric acid which will convert any unreachable rust into hard black iron phosphate.

This is for rust in pits and rust in cracks between parts that you cannot disassemble yourself. You need to get off whatever you can mechanically before you put the conversion product on.

IMO, It's much better to leave tiny converted pits under the bluing then to sand too much metal off of the gun trying to get it perfect.

It's hard to judge that by photographs alone so you kind of have to determine when enough is enough.
 
Hey all,

Thanks for the replies. Things have gotten a little crazy on top of my dad taking the gun back over to his house so my project has been set back a little time wise. I'll still be sure to read all of this great information, digest it, and slowly but surely get to work! In other news I have taken stewardship of a Remington 581-S that is keeping me busy for the time being... oh boy!
 
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