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Hogdon titegroup powder question

John A.

John A.

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I have a really good recipe for 147 gr 9mm subsonic using ~3.2 gr hogdon titegroup.

Is there any 12, 16, 20 gauge recipes using it?

Main reason being, I would rather just buy 1 type of powder to load shells, 9mm, and 40 SW and maybe 38/357 if possible just to make my life more simple. At least at first.
 
OK thanks.

I ordered a lyman 5th edition shotshell handbook to go along with the Lee load-all.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around all the different "everythings".

All the different wads at ballistics products mainly. I'm not entirely sure which wads I need to order, but I will be loading for 12 and 16 gauge, though I have shells from about every one. Rio, Winchester, Federal, Hornady, Remington, Centurion, etc etc etc.

I would just like to get a good wad for hunting with #6. It shouldn't be that darn difficult. But seems like from what I am seeing, every different hull needs a different wad.

Good grief Charlie brown.

I compare it to needing a different brand 223 bullet for every different brand of brass ?????

That's an exaggeration, but really. Why can you take 5 different 12 gauge hulls and need 5 different wads for the recipes?

What am I missing here?
 
John A. said:
OK thanks.



All the different wads at ballistics products mainly. I'm not entirely sure which wads I need to order, but I will be loading for 12 and 16 gauge, though I have shells from about every one. Rio, Winchester, Federal, Hornady, Remington, Centurion, etc etc etc.


That's an exaggeration, but really. Why can you take 5 different 12 gauge hulls and need 5 different wads for the recipes?

What am I missing here?
Click to expand...

once you get the book it will all make more since

mostly the different wads are for two things. Different payloads and different powders

the powders all take up a different amount of space in the hull. The wads come in different lengths to accommodate the space taken by the powder

Also the payload weight and make up. Heavy field loads are going to want a stiffer petal and maybe more room.

Since you want to use one particular powder just look for that powder in the weight payload you want. The book will go into much more detail on the hulls

You will be limited by the hulls , the Euro hulls all take a Euro size wad......and sometimes a slightly off size Euro primer. They are mostly not woth the trouble and data is limited.

Stick to the data as much as possible unless dropping in payload weight or powder grains because there is little room for error as the shotgun chamber and barrel wont put up with too much experimentation
 
I've never used Titegroup for 12-ga shotgun but it obviously can work well based on Hodgdon's load data. I bet it meters really consistently.

Shotgun shell loading can be finicky at first but if you settle on using just one brand of hulls it gets a whole lot easier. I stick with Remington because they are all one-piece plastic and the same wad works across the board throughout all their plastic hulls (STS, Nitro 27, Premier, Gun Club...) with the same powder charge for a given shot weight. And the plastic survives quite a lot of crimps before they crack.
 
Thank you both for the replies.

Most of my 12 gauge is Federal Field and Target. (The cheap low brass walmart bulk pack). I'm really stocked well on it, though I'm uncertain if there are many loads in there for them or specifically for low brass, but I think I'd like using them for a few reasons. They still get more than 1200 fps, and less kick, and should need less powder per pop, so all things considered, will be more stingy on components.

I was able to find this online from Federal, but I'm uncertain about the data and rather they are for the Federal Field and Target low brass, although it is listed by name and I think they are the first set of recipes (3 dram).

Federal 12 gauge reload data.JPG

I do have some remmy xpress and Winchester super x for the 12's too, so I'm not married to the federal field and target, but I do have much more of it.

16 gauge I mainly have federal hi-shok and remmy game loads for it. And a full case of Rio that I picked up a while back because I got a good deal on it.

My buddy gave me two 25lb bags of 6 shot, so I'm set there for a while. Plus, #6 is my favorite hunting load anyway.

I am holding off on picking and ordering the primer/powder and wads until I get the manual so I can look through it and find the one that looks like it takes the least charge and powder that will work equally well for 12 and 16, though 20 and 410 may be in the future too but the 12/16 gauge will be first.

The biggest thing holding me off on the 410 is Lee doesn't sell an adapter for the loader, though I may get a Lanes brand 410 kit and do it by hand. Not really a big deal, at least for the small volume of 410 that I go through. http://www.lanesreloading.com/410.html
 
here is where its weird . There are many hulls and many names. You can have one hull labeled with 5 names. What you will need to do is take a hull and cut it lengthwise in half

In your manual there will be illustrations of all the manufacturers base hulls with most the different associated names listed for that particular hull

Just make sure to compare your cut hull with the illustration and description in the manual, regardless of the name on the hull it will carry data universal to all the names because the hull is the same construction and crimp

I had a bunch of that post around here somewhere...
 
OK. I can take a few shells and shoot and dissect them.

The book and loader probably won't be here for about a week anyway. And even then, it may be next month before I am able to get powders and primers and wads anyway, so there's no big hurry.

How do you recommend that I cut them? Dremel, hacksaw, ???
 
regardless of model just match Remington with Remington, Federal with Federal and so on



The other thing is tapered vs. straight wall hulls......and that's another thing about wads, the need to be for one or the other.
 
Looks like the Federal gold medal and the field/target hulls are the same.
 
that gold medal is paper....there are a couple more federal hulls you'll see when you get the book and if it isn't exact just drop some powder grains and work up, its where a chrono is nice
 
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