hombre243
.30-06
Verry interesting. The hammer is keeping pressure on the bolt so the bolt is in contact with the receiver. It would not take a lot of buffing to make the relief.
I Just Joined the Club
- Thread starter hombre243
- Start date
Verry interesting. The hammer is keeping pressure on the bolt so the bolt is in contact with the receiver. It would not take a lot of buffing to make the relief.
Perhaps more than buffing. I think you'll have to file a 1/8" notch.
It does NOT need to be full width of the bolt though, because the hammer isn't as wide as the bottom of the bolt.
Also the top of the hammer might be relieved a bit too. It just has to contact hard enough to cock, but the bolt pushes it somewhat farther back than that.
It does NOT need to be full width of the bolt though, because the hammer isn't as wide as the bottom of the bolt.
Also the top of the hammer might be relieved a bit too. It just has to contact hard enough to cock, but the bolt pushes it somewhat farther back than that.
hombre243
.30-06
Knowing how companies are about patented designs Mossberg probably had to change the design in enough areas of the 464 so they didn't infringe on Winchesters protected (unique) designs, but still stay with the basic look alike-ness for consumer appeal. IMO: After the sale whatever a consumer does, even if he/she reverse engineers and modifies their rifle to be exactly like a 94 they would not be infringing. Go for it...let me know how it works.
I am loading today whenever I can muster up enough want-to to do it. I have 6 powders and 2 different bullets to load for. I think I will use the IMR-4198 like I started with and use Alliant Rx10 for s&g. I have not used that yet and I have a new jug. After doing the deep cleaning I am almost giddy with excitement. But still not excited enough for Depends.
hombre243
.30-06
I got a msg from my friend and he said he could not remember where the lines were located. I guess it is not that important though because the rifle is more accurate than I can shoot, even with the lines. Maybe I should go shoot a few just to make sure.
hombre243
.30-06
Anyone shoot lead? I probably will need something to do this winter and I am thinking i may start pouring 30 cal bullets for the 30-30. I am thinking 170 or 180 gr gas checked bullets, Lee molds and about a hundred pounds of good lead I have here just sittin on the floor for me to stub a toe on.
If you use it and like using lead, let me know what ya like about lead bullets per se. If not, let me know why that also. I am wondering about barrel leading and velocities and bullet lube type...all that fun stuff that makes shooting lead so "enjoyable."
Thanks in advance.
h
If you use it and like using lead, let me know what ya like about lead bullets per se. If not, let me know why that also. I am wondering about barrel leading and velocities and bullet lube type...all that fun stuff that makes shooting lead so "enjoyable."
Thanks in advance.
h
hombre243
.30-06
"..........the rifle seems to prefer a slightly soiled bore".
That statement is very important. For years, shooters have been oiling their bores with Ballistol after cleaning. When you wipe it out, prior to shooting, it acts like fouling to give a more consistent POI, especially with the first shot. That is, the first shot is not so much of a flier and is closer to the group made by following shots. It is not AFAIK, a long term rust preventive. We shot weekly and it was more than sufficient in our humid, salty climate.
The JB will be Difficult to remove. I used to go to extremes to avoid leaving some in my precious bore
Good luck hombre. Hope it all goes well and look forward to your results.
"For years, shooters have been oiling their bores with Ballistol after cleaning."... Never heard that but makes some kinda sense. Now you have me wondering about EEZOX and Frog Lube, which coats the surfaces a bit. I wonder if that will help. I know about cleaning with alcohol to get all the oils out. I have both products so now i have to decide which to use after I shoot a few out of a spotless bore.
OH!!! Someone sent me a link about a cheap bore scope that works. Amazon has some 5.5 mm scopes and also ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-1-5M-5-...hash=item35f38a1f6c:m:mdmjLJQX3qUovPlP4X4jYIw
http://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Wate...oliid=IJFPGJ370QONC&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl
This could be fun. I also found chore boy copper scrubbies on Amazon which are all copper and very useful for lead removal from your barrels.
http://www.amazon.com/Chore-Boy-Cop...liid=I1BBKUFMQS9ZEP&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl
PS I didn't have any problem getting the J-B out of the rifling. Using Kroil oil seemed to flush it right out with 2-3 wet patches.
alcohol
After using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol?) to clean out rust preventive oil in the bore, results were pretty nasty for the first 2 or 3 shots at least. After you wipe out the Ballistol with 1 or 2 patches, some of it is left behind. That "residual" is what acts like fouling, to reduce the first-shot-flier.
After using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol?) to clean out rust preventive oil in the bore, results were pretty nasty for the first 2 or 3 shots at least. After you wipe out the Ballistol with 1 or 2 patches, some of it is left behind. That "residual" is what acts like fouling, to reduce the first-shot-flier.
hombre243
.30-06
FYI The Amazon scope I got is similar to the EBAY scope but does not have the angled tip attachment. It has poor resolution. The EBAY scope has good res but the angled mirror tip that is a screw on attachment won't fit in a .224 bore. The straight tip works fine. When I get some dirty barrels to clean I will post pics clean and dirty. (Dirty but PG-13)
Since reading this thread I've been much more careful about cleaning the bores, as I do shoot lead all the time.
Also I noticed that my Henry 357 lever rifle has a relief under the bolt when you cock it all the way back.
It happens to be right where the two piece firing pin meets. The design is considerably different than the Mossberg or Winchester 94 in that respect. And of course the tube loads from the front.
Also I noticed that my Henry 357 lever rifle has a relief under the bolt when you cock it all the way back.
It happens to be right where the two piece firing pin meets. The design is considerably different than the Mossberg or Winchester 94 in that respect. And of course the tube loads from the front.
hombre243
.30-06
If I get another rifle it will probably be an AR. If i decide I want a different 3030 I will trade the Mossy for a Henry. But I haven't had the best of health lately and the doc says it could be because of COPD. I was never diagnosed prior to last week so we are not sure if it is that or a heart problem. He is giving me inhalers to see if that helps, but I think (as I told him 2 times now) I think I should get heart tests done. He is a brand new doc, as my old VA doc retired and this was my first consult with the new guy.
I am hoping I can get some energy back, which should help me with the overall mental and physical function. I want to go shoot guns but the best I can do is type about them, and, occasionally hit the range.
I will also be paying a lot more attention to the cleaning. I think all rifles have a favorite load combination and my rifle likes 150s better than 125s, so maybe 165 gr lead or 170 gr jsp will be more to its liking. I will know as soon as i get to the range later this week. It rained here a bit yesterday so the range will be muddy, skeetery and hot. I will get there and let y'all know what I found.
I loaded 60 rounds with the 170gr and IMR 4064. I would have bought IMR 3031 but the dealer was out. IMR 4064 according to Lyman is the recommended powder for the accuracy load, and i have test loads that start at 28.0 and go to 30.5 gr. This is at the max for this data, but I have seen higher. (31.7 in the Lee Manual)
So far the AR-15 has not been my most reliable gun.
I've managed to jam the magazine, and I've bent the bolt catch twice.
The adjustable buttstock is too wobbly for accurate shooting.
It shoots fast as hell, however, and rarely jambs or fails to fire.
The range officer had to chew me out for shooting too fast.
I've managed to jam the magazine, and I've bent the bolt catch twice.
The adjustable buttstock is too wobbly for accurate shooting.
It shoots fast as hell, however, and rarely jambs or fails to fire.
The range officer had to chew me out for shooting too fast.
hombre243
.30-06
I was considering an AR before I got the 464 but I had so much reloading components for the Marlin i decided rather than take a huge hit by selling off the components for a nickle on the dollar I NEEDED another 30-30. The AR I am still Considering is a Mossberg MMR...not dressed in black. I like the idea of a semi auto .223/5.56 so that may be my next purchase, unless I decide I MUST HAVE a Henry.
hombre243
.30-06
I know some of you have mentioned these possibilities, of things that could affect the accuracy of our rifles.
I emailed Paco Kelly and told him what we were doing, and asked his opinion and advice. Here is his reply:
"
RON.. THERE IS A NUMBER OF THINGS THAT WILL CAUSE STRINGING. A WEAK HAMMER SPRING HITTING THE PRIMERS DIFFERENTLY EACH TIME CAUSING DIFFERENT PRESSURES.
THE WOOD OF THE FOREARM IF IT'S CHANNEL HAS A HIGH SPOT: I WOULD TAKE IT OFF AND SAND THE CHANNEL VERY WELL.
IF THE LOADING TUBE IS SO TIGHT THAT, AS THE BARREL HEATS IT CHANGES THE POINT OF AIM.
AS FOR THE HAMMER SPRING I WOULD TAKE IT OUT AND STRETCH IT.
I WOULD TAKE THE FOREARM OFF AND TEST FIRE. IF IT STILL STRINGS TRY TEST FIRING WITH THE LOADING TUBE OFF.
GOOD SHOOTING HOPE ALL THIS HELPS
PACO"
I emailed Paco Kelly and told him what we were doing, and asked his opinion and advice. Here is his reply:
"
RON.. THERE IS A NUMBER OF THINGS THAT WILL CAUSE STRINGING. A WEAK HAMMER SPRING HITTING THE PRIMERS DIFFERENTLY EACH TIME CAUSING DIFFERENT PRESSURES.
THE WOOD OF THE FOREARM IF IT'S CHANNEL HAS A HIGH SPOT: I WOULD TAKE IT OFF AND SAND THE CHANNEL VERY WELL.
IF THE LOADING TUBE IS SO TIGHT THAT, AS THE BARREL HEATS IT CHANGES THE POINT OF AIM.
AS FOR THE HAMMER SPRING I WOULD TAKE IT OUT AND STRETCH IT.
I WOULD TAKE THE FOREARM OFF AND TEST FIRE. IF IT STILL STRINGS TRY TEST FIRING WITH THE LOADING TUBE OFF.
GOOD SHOOTING HOPE ALL THIS HELPS
PACO"
I am still slogging away at my long term project but still managed to get my rifle to a smith, who replaced its hammer spring. Have not had a chance to try it out yet. You might recall that my fore arm was taken off for testing with pretty bad results leading me to wonder if the stringing has been a result of the hammer spring all along. Ony testing will tell but the project has priority.
hombre243
.30-06
I knew someone mentioned that they suspected the spring. I do not want to send this rifle in but I think I can find a smith around who can fix it if it is bad, Let us know what you find out. If I knew how to get it apart I would do as Paco mentioned and stretch it but it does not look like an easy task, so I may have to send it in anyway if I can't find a gunsmith who can do it.
Just a wild guess from me hombre but you might find a complete strip-down on you tube. I have done this kind of thing on another make and it was not easy, so I don't blame you for being cautious. Having mine done by a smith cast $116 for the spring and labour plus $50 for petrol You can buy a few tools for that money.
As for stretching the spring, that is something I have never done. I would think that you would want to test the original spring before replacing it but have no clue about that. BTW, my smith checked firing pin protrusion and very importantly, the timing of the locking bolt # 58 which houses the firing pin striker #59. These complexities are beyond me but now it is no longer a cheap gun. In the end, I opted for the peace of mind provided by a competent smith.
Best of luck hombre, thanks for the post about Paco and one day, I will be in touch.
You can buy a few tools for that money.As for stretching the spring, that is something I have never done. I would think that you would want to test the original spring before replacing it but have no clue about that. BTW, my smith checked firing pin protrusion and very importantly, the timing of the locking bolt # 58 which houses the firing pin striker #59. These complexities are beyond me but now it is no longer a cheap gun. In the end, I opted for the peace of mind provided by a competent smith.
Best of luck hombre, thanks for the post about Paco and one day, I will be in touch.
hombre243
.30-06
Just a wild guess from me hombre but you might find a complete strip-down on you tube. I have done this kind of thing on another make and it was not easy, so I don't blame you for being cautious. Having mine done by a smith cast $116 for the spring and labour plus $50 for petrol
As for stretching the spring, that is something I have never done. I would think that you would want to test the original spring before replacing it but have no clue about that. BTW, my smith checked firing pin protrusion and very importantly, the timing of the locking bolt # 58 which houses the firing pin striker #59. These complexities are beyond me but now it is no longer a cheap gun. In the end, I opted for the peace of mind provided by a competent smith.
Best of luck hombre, thanks for the post about Paco and one day, I will be in touch.
I quake just thinking about completely disassembling the rifle. In the meantime I will take off the forearm and look for high spots.