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Issue with 930 SPX Stock

As William noted, the bushing stops the pin from coming out of the side of the tube.
You said the pin was too short, so eventually it popped out the end I'm guessing.
 
Oh. I misunderstood then what he was trying to say. The way that I read that was that the pin was not needed at all once it was assembled with the bushing, and pin is only a temporary hold in place until bushing was installed :)
 
FYI, as I should have mentioned this, but looks like pin did sheer vs installing odd size pin. The pin that fell out was nowhere near long enough to hold the spring even temporarily.

Or I guess it could have been a defective pin that was abnormal or deformed in such a manner that it only held for assembly.

My point being, that when you compared the two pins, they were identical, except the notches were missing :)
 
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So I have another problem. This whole thing started when I tried to install a Limbsaver butt stock pad. It says you can use the factory screws. However, when the screws are tight and to their tightest point, you can still pull the limb saver off of the stock a good 1/4 inch. I would have to overdrive the screws and that concerns me a little bit, as I don't know if I'm doing some kind of damage.

Anybody have experience installing one on a Choate pistol grip?
 
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Think it's going to take a call to Limbsaver, as it's now obvious upon closer inspection it's not the same mold as the original. Always frustrating when something as simple as a butt pad wont fit..

The design and shape is dead on. But on original, the plastic insert piece the pad goes around and where the top of the screw head rest against to secure it, is much higher than the Limbsaver.

Being its lower, shorter screws are needed and so the statement "uses factory screws" is incorrect.

Also on the original, they have molded in spacers to fill in the gap on the raised ridge, which means more stability. The little round filler pieces are missing on the Limbsaver, which means if you were to over tighten the screws, you could bend the plastic insert.

It will still function, but in theory, it won't be as secure. I'll just never understand why it's so hard to look at the original then just simply duplicate it.
 
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Did you install the bolt after replacing the recoil spring? The tail of the bolt must be installed into the recoil spring assembly for it to function correctly.
 
Did you install the bolt after replacing the recoil spring? The tail of the bolt must be installed into the recoil spring assembly for it to function correctly.
Plumber.... I think Smitty meant the tail of the bolt assembly in the receiver
 
Well I'm not sure. I assumed it did. When I turned the gun upside down, out came a small black plastic insert piece, similar to the one on the butt stock end. It appeared to obviously only go one way. So I just stuck the long nose part of it it in the rear of the spring and push the spring back into the long tube. The other side was flat and looked like a just sat on the bottom of the long tube by the bolt, so I would think everything went right. But as I said, it feels a little funky when I cycle it :)
 
Are you saying that I have to remove and reinstall the bolt if I never did originally and only removed the recoil spring and reinstalled it, for it to work properly.

A gunsmith I am not...
 
Make sure the end of the link engages recoil plunger properly.
Remove the trigger group if you haven't so you can see what you're doing.
 
I decided to completely disassemble it so I can start to learn my own weapon. I am assuming that everything goes together first, the bolt and trigger assembly, then the last thing to go in would be to recoil spring?

I'm trying to get a different view to make sure he goes together right.
 
Watching the video by Jerry Miculek, he says to completely break down the piston. Yet every other video I have watched including advice on this forum too, says you don't have to disassemble the piston. Any input?
 
I decided to completely disassemble it so I can start to learn my own weapon. I am assuming that everything goes together first, the bolt and trigger assembly, then the last thing to go in would be to recoil spring?

I'm trying to get a different view to make sure he goes together right.

Bolt or recoil spring assembly, the order doesn't matter. Re-install the trigger group last. Allows you to see what you're doing.
Then I install the barrel and related components.
 
Watching the video by Jerry Miculek, he says to completely break down the piston. Yet every other video I have watched including advice on this forum too, says you don't have to disassemble the piston. Any input?

I always remove the piston rings for cleaning. They get gunked up with carbon.
 
I think I found the problem. Because the plunger came out accidentally when I turned it upside down, I naturally assume the long skinny piece ( Pinocchio's nose ) stuck into the spring. I just watched a video and it looks like the flat piece goes up against the spring and the long Pinocchio nose piece goes towards the bolt correct.

Intuitively, I would have bet my life the long skinny piece went into the spring it just fits so perfect.
 
Sorry, we both posted at once :). I very much appreciate your help at this late hour, it always helps knowing there's someone out there to assist me when I screw up :). Thank you for your time sir
 
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