1. Check out the Hot Deals section of the Marketplace forum to order an official Mossbergowners.com hat.

Mosin Nagant

Discussion in 'Long Guns' started by DaveinCT, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Itsricmo

    Itsricmo .30-06

    Messages:
    4,127
    So.. I can buy a 440 or 880 can for a few Benjamin's and it really won't be that hard on the rifle??? I think this thing just got a whole hell of a lot better! I was hesitant to shoot the 5 shells through it today and when I cleaned... I CLEANED IT lol... My patches were coming out cleaner then when they started in :lol:

    I am not in this rifle for the "purist" or collectors value but am in it for a fun project rifle. Can the Mosin Barrels and everything be Blued with the "Cold Blue" stuff from Walmart???

    Also, I missed your picture of the Archangel Stock Rip... Any updates?!!?
  2. LAZY EYED SNIPER

    LAZY EYED SNIPER Overwatch Staff Member Global Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    21,109
    All I buy and shoot in 7.62x54r are the spam cans of old Russian comm. block ammo at $80-$90 for a 440 round can. Never had any problems with corrosion. Run some water through and clean it after every range trip and that rifle of yours will still be good to go when your kids are your age...
  3. ripjack13

    ripjack13 Resident Sawdust Maker Staff Member Administrator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    22,552
    Too much drama at the domicile this past weekend. :roll:
  4. Itsricmo

    Itsricmo .30-06

    Messages:
    4,127
    Awesome news! I will have to look at buying a spam can for a rainy day!!

    RIP, no excuses :) I want a range report lol
    Also some help on how to reblue the action and barrel :D
  5. LAZY EYED SNIPER

    LAZY EYED SNIPER Overwatch Staff Member Global Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    21,109
    Wish I could help, but I've ever tried to re-blue anything...
  6. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    2,840
    I've had mixed results bluing with Birchwood Casey stuff (gel and liquid) It really all depended on the steel I was trying to re-blue... some turned out great, others wiped off after the first cleaning. Brownells and Midway both have their own brand of bluing for which you can find a plethora of reviews on the interwebs... neither of which I have experience with. I've also tried the vinegar method on one of my blades and it's still holding up... probably a bit complicated for a whole action and barrel ;)
  7. ripjack13

    ripjack13 Resident Sawdust Maker Staff Member Administrator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    22,552
    JohnA is the blueing expert.....
  8. Itsricmo

    Itsricmo .30-06

    Messages:
    4,127

    UPDATE: I bought some Birchwood Casey lastnight at Dunhams and tried it out. BAD IDEA... for me at least. Upon application all looked well, until I went to wipe it off and the metal turned a goofy green color. Sort of like what happens when Copper is left out in the weather for too long.

    So I went back and redid all the cleaning process and actually had to use a buffing compound to remove this new "film" or coat of crap... I decided instead of wasting anymore precious free time, I went to walmart, grabbed 2 cans of Krylon Camo-in-a-can (1-black and 1-OD Green) and HAD AT IT!

    Everything is still drying and awaiting one more coat before reassembly but until then...... here is a nice photo before I destroyed all hopes of keeping the Purists happy :)

    [​IMG]
  9. John A.

    John A. Unconstitutional laws are not laws. Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator

    Messages:
    15,991
    I've never seen birchwood casey turn green, but you could check out brownells oxphoblue if the paint doesn't work out.
  10. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    2,840
    John saw paint + Mosin and went :?
  11. John A.

    John A. Unconstitutional laws are not laws. Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator

    Messages:
    15,991
    Nah, I'm not a purist. I'm more into personalizing them to suit my taste or needs.

    If I owned even priceless and historical guns like Bonnie and Clydes' guns, or Wyatt Earps' guns, or Gen. Pattons' guns, I'd still shoot them. May even replace springs and ???? :)

    Truthfully, I understand that some guns are more desirable for a number of reasons, but old military surplus rifles were made by the truckload. And hence the old saying: "There are many like it, but this one is mine".
  12. Itsricmo

    Itsricmo .30-06

    Messages:
    4,127
    I agree with what you have to say, John!

    Also, if the paint doesn't work out on the metal, it looks promising, I will give that stuff a shot! As for the stock... OD Green was the wood and the metal is currently left a nice polished steel. I went to mask off the sling slots and metal cap, the paint started to come off. Still needs to cure a little longer. Going to give it a stab tomorrow after I get back from a long night of work, at which point I will know if I have to RE-sand the whole thing or if the paint is going to stick.

    Bought some Surplus 174grn FMJ stuff tonight for $8.50 OTD! That is what I call AWESOME!
  13. jgwills

    jgwills 20g

    Messages:
    660
    Yellow painted tips? Steel or brass cases? If you scored some of the mid 80's Yugo stuff you did really well. Just remember the 174 ish grained stuff was more intended for the machine guns and the 149 ish grain stuff was typically for the bolt guns. Your gun being a carbine its gonna be even more stout with the recoil. Its safe to shoot that heavier stuff in the bolt guns so no worries. Just give your shoulder a heads up before you hit the range :lol: Some carbines actually shoot the heavier stuff more accurately. As always with any surp gun and ammo, trial and error. Buy up all you can in various flavors till you find the best combination. Then once you know which one pairs up the best stock it often and stock it deep as best you can. Good luck on your refinishing project.
  14. Itsricmo

    Itsricmo .30-06

    Messages:
    4,127
    Well I opened the package upon your question and it turns out they are a more like BT-FMJ and aren't some sort of penetrator or mild steel core stuff. Fine by me haha but it is 174 grain that was marked on the pack. Bi-metal case too for what it's worth lol

    As for the stout recoil.. I answered that with a swift visit to Amazon and purchased an ATI buttpad thingy! :D
  15. jgwills

    jgwills 20g

    Messages:
    660
    Hopefully your gun likes whatever they are. My apologies, I just remembered the Yugo 80s stuff was 182 grain anyways. My mistake. Its tough to remember all the various surplus stuff out there. I still to this day believe the Czech silver tip stuff was some of the best. Most others concur so if ever see some offered for sale SNAG it. Same with that Yugo stuff. Historically you can't usually go wrong with either. All highly corrosive so heed the warnings earlier in this thread. Having a bottle of windex at my station always got me funny looks at the range sometimes but it does the trick.

    Best of luck. Range report when you have one sir. ;)
  16. John A.

    John A. Unconstitutional laws are not laws. Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator

    Messages:
    15,991
    I use windex and/or lemon scented ammonia to clean any kind of corrosive ammo.

    Lemon scented is kind of a misnomer though. It still smells really strong, but until they make bacon scented ammonia, it works. :lol:
  17. Itsricmo

    Itsricmo .30-06

    Messages:
    4,127
    lol I filled up a little water bottle with Windex and got some funny stares and a "Why are you pouring kool-aid down your barrel??" from one of the younger shooters there :lol: I am certainly going to take it any time I have corrosive stuff that I am going to be shooting!!

    As for the range report, I will hopefully get one here soon! I finished my stock and all the metal, got it reassembled and barrel cleaned out. Just waiting for some parts in the mail now and then I will be all set!

    Aside from that, how soon does the corrosive ammo start working? Is it some time after you finished shooting and it is left to sit, or is it an immediate kind of thing? (I just ask so I know whether I need to clean my Mosin before switching guns or if it can sit there for a little bit.)
  18. John A.

    John A. Unconstitutional laws are not laws. Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator

    Messages:
    15,991
    You don't have to clean it the second you get done shooting, but don't leave it sitting overnight or for days afterward.
  19. jgwills

    jgwills 20g

    Messages:
    660
    This ^^^^

    Anytime I suspect ammo is corrosive I usually flush the bore/ bolt face with windex right at the end of the range session while the metal's nice and warm. Main reason is to immediately nuetralize any of the salt deposits left by the corrosive primers. That way if I can't get around to cleaning the the gun for a couple of days it won't develop a light layer of surface rust. Doing it right after the session isn't a requirement but the sooner you can flush the bore the better. Then you can clean at your leisure with clp, hoppes, or whatever else you like to clean your guns with. The water/windex is just to neutralize the salts. The bore still requires a proper cleaning from all the other fouling left behind. Some folks literally think you just use windex and thats it. Not a great idea. Sadly in the early days when the soviet curtain fell some of the best Mosin specimens were in those first shipments. Many excellent to good condition bores got jacked up by folks who simply didn't know about all that new to the market surp ammo being corrosive :(
  20. Itsricmo

    Itsricmo .30-06

    Messages:
    4,127
    Okay, I didn't want to be Russian around, whoops I mean rushing around :lol: to clean my gun at the range if I could postpone it for a few hours till I got home. That's all good to know and I hope tomorrow to get to test the sights out too 500yds... If it dings twice its good enough for me :)

Share This Page