• Mossberg Owners is in the process of upgrading the software. Please bear with us while we transition to the new look and new upgraded software.

Mossberg 190 Full Breakdown Guide

_Kodiak_

Copper BB
Hey, everyone. Thought I'd share the knowledge I've picked up working on my (new to me) shotgun! It's an old 190 in 16 gauge. First time tear down was a bear, especially for a deep clean and polish. If this is the wrong sub-forum, please let me know or maybe a moderator could move it. Thanks!


Just a quick detailed breakdown of the Mossberg 190 bolt action shotgun. There's three models; 185, 190 & 195, chambered in 20, 16 & 12 gauge respectively. Breakdown should be the same for all three, maybe with minor variations. I can only speak of behalf of the model 190. When I bought mine, it was definitely neglected and covered in old cosmoline and surface rust. Cleaned and polished with 0000 steel wool to get it where it is now. Without further ado, let's get into it!

NOTE: I'm not a certified gunsmith, nor do I take responsibility should something happen on your own gun. I'm only doing this to share knowledge.

Another note: A good supply for replacement parts is Havlin Gun Parts or Numrich Gun Parts. I've bought from both and they seem to be pretty good as far as quick shipping and parts supply.

These are the tools and supplies I'll be using to clean my gun. Only thing pictured is gun cleaning solvent, but I'm using the Remington brand in the spray can. Phillips screwdriver is #1, unknown what size flatblade. Just find one that fits snugly in screw groove without slipping. Tweezers pictured were not used. Red bottle is Outer's Choke Tube Grease.


First off, obviously make sure your gun is empty and the magazine clear. This gun only holds three shots total, two in the magazine & one in the chamber.


Next, remove the bolt by opening it, holding the trigger down and sliding it out the back of the receiver.


Flip shotgun over and remove the flat and Phillips head screws on either end of the mag well. Flathead won't come out of the plate, don't worry. Just loosen it so it's free of the receiver and the plate will come off after removing the Phillips head. Take care not to lose the Phillips head, it's rather small.


Now, gently separate the stock and the barreled action by pulling them apart. I found the best places to grip are the forend and barrel just in front of there. A careful tug should be all you need to separate them. Trigger and magazine release come out with the action. Set the stock off to the side for later if you plan to do any cleaning work to it.


Flip the action over and you'll see four flat head screws. I've labeled the screws for their respective parts. The two for the magazine catch are the same and the other two are their own sizes. Hard to mix these ones up. When reinstalling, I'd suggest a dab of Loctite to keep them from working loose like mine did. Also remember, the flat "L" shape piece goes UNDER the mag release. I tried putting mine back together the opposite way, didn't work well :)
cCFkyRi.jpg

F7AIuDN.jpg
 
I don't recommend taking the safety plate under the trigger off because there's a small spring loaded plunger in the trigger itself that when you pull the plate out, that plunger pops out and can get VERY easily lost! You can if you want to completely remove the trigger for work, but make sure you have a good set of needle nose plies handy that can fit in the tight space.

At this point, you can do all your cleaning or inspecting of the individual parts on the receiver. Pay close attention the ejector to be sure it's not broken or anything. Check all the parts for cracks. My magazine slot arm had a crack in the middle, but it's not deep, so I left it for now and have another in the parts bin just in case. This is also a good time to do polishing work in the receiver if you chose to do so. I used 0000 steel wool, as you can see on the side of the trigger there.

Now, on to the choke. It's a simply screw on/off, known as the C-Lect Choke. I find it quite effective, especially for trap and skeet for varying distances. Just a simple turn of the choke and you have three different levels; Improved Cylinder, Modified and Full. Easy to remove as well, just unscrew it. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. Depending on how long the gun has been sitting and collecting rust, it might be gorilla tight, but it has a ridge texture surface all the way around, making it a good base to wrap a rag around and crank it with channel locks.
zEjKsUk.jpg


If you remove it like I have, you'll see the choke itself, which is a bunch of fingers that constrict as you tighten the choke. Check these fingers for cracks and even if they're broken. I've seen them broken off from people shooting their gun without the choke sleeve on and blew them off. Probably a slug could do it, too. Look at the threads both on the barrel and in the sleeve to be sure they're in good condition. As you can see below, I've got a couple small spots in my sleeve's threads that someone monkied up. Hard to see, they're in the middle of the threads. Also, check the bead on the choke level plate to be sure it's not only there, but also secure. Again, a dab of Loctite'll do it. Careful if you plan to remove it, it's softer metal that's easily disfigured. I put a bit of the choke tube grease on the threads to protect them from the elements and make it easier to thread on and off.
sVvjo3I.jpg

Zzkzikk.jpg


Now, on to the bolt.
uDJxs7I.jpg


It's a two piece design, split in half. Rotate the front portion with your extractor attached to 180* and it'll slide right off. Don't worry, the ball bearing won't come out (unless something's wrong with it). To lower the firing pin, carefully push the now exposed pin against a flat surface, like a table to lift the end off it's seat, rotate to the right and release the pressure. The pin will uncock and relieve the spring tension. Here you can inspect your pin and spring for wear/damage. To replace it, use some pliers with a rag around the small nut on the pin at the base of the spring and unscrew it. Might be tight, so be ready, yet be careful not to damage the nut or threads. When the nut is off, the pin will drop right out the other end for replacement. Reverse to install.
LLztLTj.jpg


Here you can see the extractors, which lean to the right a little. This is normal, don't worry. Just check they're intact and secure. In the picture, the firing pin is cocked, which is why there's no protrusion. Check yours protrudes enough when uncocked to ensure good primer strikes.
ZvRsuoS.jpg


Now we can move to the magazine. Shouldn't be any need to disassemble it, but if you do, it's very easy. You can push the follower up and down to check the feel. Should be smooth and easy yet firm, not gritty nor should it stick anywhere.
zQBHSgG.jpg


If you need to disassemble it, rock the front of the follower down, the wiggle the back out past the feed lips. Once the back is out, pull it out some and do the same with the front to get it the rest of the way out. Might seem kinda tricky, but there's just a special spot you need to have it at for it to pop out. Only takes a few moments to find it, though. I have faith in you :)
S5wtAOa.jpg

Tt1rZ4K.jpg


Same as usual here, check for damage and wear, fix as necessary. Reinstall is a little tougher, but still easy. Just fiddle with it until it's in (that's what she said).

Now, if you're all done inspecting and cleaning, just reassemble in the reverse order you took the gun apart. Put the parts back on the receiver, reassemble the bolt and rejoin the action and stock. Don't go monkey nuts tight on the screws for the stock-to-receiver screws, ESPECIALLY the Phillips! It's VERY easy to strip that one! You done been warned, son!

Once you have it all back together looking pretty, functions check it. Test the safety by clicking it over and ensure the trigger does not fully depress. Should only move about an 1/8" or so and NOT drop the pin! Put two snap caps in the magazine (if you have them. Substitute with EMPTY, repeat EMPTY shells if you don't), slide in into the gun and make sure the bolt lifts one up and into the chamber. You can pull the trigger if you're sure it's a snap cap/empty. Open bolt and ensure good extraction & ejection. Cycle it like you normally would so it will instead of baby it, otherwise it might not eject properly. The shells will sit cocked a little so the front is raised in the magazine, this is normal.
2WB4wLv.jpg

nx3KXaD.jpg


If everything works, looks and feels good, you're done! Good job, now have a beer if you haven't already. Personally, I had two cleaning mine up. Thanks for reading along and I hope I presented this knowledge well enough for others to find helpful! Have a good one and see you later!
 
Back
Top