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My 1st Mossberg

Zach H.

.22LR
Hey all. As you can guess, my name is Zach. I grew up (kinda) shooting an 870 & watching my dad shoot an 1187. Now that I have kids of my own, I wanted an extra shotgun so they can go with me. I found a guy with a 935 that was just sitting in his closet. He didn't like shooting it because it didn't cycle right. He wasn't shooting upland game shells, only high brass but it was still not working. I tore it down several times, lubing and cleaning but it still didn't have a crisp cycle. Who ever put the rail on the receiver, had the screws rubbing against the top of the bolt ever so slightly. I removed them & put dummy screws in it & it's better but still has some issues with cycling.
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BTW, what are dummy screws? I'm interested.

I think they are just the tiny little screws they put in the screw holes from Mossberg.

Zach: make sure the top of the bolt is not gouged up from the screws and dress high spots with a file if it is. Also examine the inside of the receiver for similar marks. Good Luck and BTW, Welcome Aboard! :)
 
Welcome from the socialist republic of New York. Looks like you received a couple of rescue shotguns. You came to the right place. There is an abundance of experience here on a wide range of firearms. I think you’ll get the answers you are looking for. If not you’ll have multiple people looking for answers for you.
 
Dang.

I need new friends or something.

This particular shotgun has some (cough cough) questionable "etching" that looks like it was done by a 12yr old on the left side of the receiver... a symbol that I would not want on any of my firearms :doh: so there's going to be some sanding and primer to try to fill the affected area.
 
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Sand it down below bare metal like you would do painting a car. It's aluminum and pretty soft. Unless the scratches are super deep, you should be able to get below them using some 80 grit paper, and then once the etching is removed, use 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it back up. It'll take a while of course, but the questionable graphic will be gone with some elbow grease and time.

Just don't remove the serial number.

You'll have to refinish it afterwards as you would expect because blueing doesn't work on aluminum, but afterwards, put a side saddle over top of it is another good option.

This is the one I use. It replaces the trigger pin (which you are familiar with now) and replaces the screw in the ejector. Easy peesy. The shell holder install is like a 3 minute task. You drive out the trigger pin and put the longer screw through it (like how your roll pin was earlier)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275009817659?hash=item4007dccc3b:g:6~IAAOSwON1hf4Q5

 
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Zach, along the lines John recommended you could use ESSTAC shot cards which attach with 3M industrial strength velcro. The velcro would cover the "etchings" and eliminate the requirement to rework the receiver. Their shot cards are excellent and hold up longterm plus you can rip the empty one off and slap on a fully loaded spare.

Regards
 
Zach, along the lines John recommended you could use ESSTAC shot cards which attach with 3M industrial strength velcro. The velcro would cover the "etchings" and eliminate the requirement to rework the receiver. Their shot cards are excellent and hold up longterm plus you can rip the empty one off and slap on a fully loaded spare.

Regards

I have been looking at 7 round cards & they would be prefect for covering it up!
 
I have been looking at 7 round cards & they would be prefect for covering it up!

Zach, I've used these for years on both my 500 and my 590. Key is using good quality velcro like 3M and let it cure for a bit. I rip these off using the loop and have never had any issues with velcro n the receiver coming loose. One thing to remember is not to cover up your serial number. I just cut a slot in the velcro before appling. Also don't cover your trigger group takedown pin.

Also easy to carry a spare loaded card or two in your jacket or pants pocket for quick application.

Good luck.

Regards
 
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