Discussion in 'Long Guns' started by John A., Mar 6, 2015.
^ Stick a plumb bob in your bead hole!
...I like it...
I don't think I'd be able to use the plumb bob on this barrel because it's tapered. I don't think I'd be able to verify that everything is square with each other due to that.
How about a small level across the barrel end???
id leave it in the reciever , since it needs to be true to the reciever anyway
Awe...you know you wanna....
Nice score John.
Thanks, but I have to give my better half all the credit for finding this one.
I was serious about thinking about porting it. What's a few more minutes holding a Dewalt?
Found this on drilling for bead sight,,,,,,read down a bit,,,,,,
bro, you should seriously consider scrounging up a drill press
I have a drill press.
And an X,Y cross table vice
then you don't need a dewalt or a plumb bob lol
I still will have to find the center so I can mark the barrel where I need to drill it.
Clamp the reciever, level. Rest the barrel in a v block , center on the cross table , secure and drill
Level reciever. Find center of the sighting plain on the reciever and tape a long piece of thread on center.
Run the thread down the reciever, down the barrel and over the the muzzle and back down the underside of the barrel
Take your calipers and measure where the thread crosses the the open muzzle. Adjust the thread till it is equal measurement on both sides and secure the thread with tape.
Center punch or mark right on where the thread crosses where you want your bead, center in drill press and drill
My cross vise isn't long (big) enough to install the entire gun in place but would be handy if it was.
But your 2nd option was similar to how I was going to do it.
I'm going to remove the original bead, run dental floss through the hole and to the receiver. I can tape the floss in the rear position, the front position won't need it. It will be tied in a knot.
I will have some tape over the barrel in the area that I will be working on. I may rub some paint on the floss before it touches the masking tape to leave a reference mark. Then remove the barrel from the receiver, use a center punch so my bit doesn't wander and then cut to length, then put the barrel in the cross vise and use the press to drill the hole where the paint is (about a half inch back from the muzzle) and then tap it. I will likely have to smooth the toolmarks on the muzzle, then some cold blue.
On a tapered surface use half and quarter bubbles.(as long as they are the same all around)
I forgot to ask you if you are doing anything with the LOP?
No, I'm not changing the LOP, however, I am going to swap out the factory pad for a Limbsaver.
I got the new barrel and the mag extension today.
I was able to shorten it, and got the new bead hole drilled and waiting for the new bead, and got the newly exposed metal blued.
You can't really see the bead thread very well because there is some lint from the rag that's covering them up from where I cleaned it, but the threading is there just waiting on the new bead now.
After I get the heat shield and bead and light, butt pad, and ribbed handguard installed, I'll show another picture of the final product, but everything is tied up in shipping right now.
Look's great. What did you use for the cut,tube cutter? Any tricks on cleaning up the crown?
There really isn't much of a trick to it. You just have to take your time. Aside for drilling the hole for the bead (which I did on my table vise), everything else was done by hand.
I started out using a pipe cutter, but it wasn't staying in the same groove each pass, so I stopped, put a pipe clamp around where I was going to cut it to use the clamp for a guide to keep the saw blade as straight as I could, and got out the trusty hacksaw and finished the cut.
Once cut, I used some 250 grit paper to smooth and face the muzzle and rotated the barrel by hand until smooth.
Once the face was straight and true, I switched to 400 grit to polish and somewhat tapered the inner and outer edge of the barrel by using my thumb and forefinger to hold the sandpaper and turned the barrel back and forth (around) until I got the contour I wanted, then I rubbed some birchwood casey cold blue on the exposed metal.
The reason I cut the barrel twice in the photo above was because of the bead hole. My X/Y vise didn't have as much travel as I needed to go from the factory bead hole to the new bead hole location, so I put the barrel in the vise, moved it as far as I could and drilled another reference hole (inline with the OEM bead), then cut the excess barrel off, and repeated the process the 2nd time to to get the bead where I wanted it while keeping the hole centered in the barrel. It worked out very well.
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