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Patriot .375 Ruger question?

Shawn.54

.410
This is my first post on this forum and I'm glad I found it. I have been trying to get a patriot in .375 Ruger for almost a year now and on a whim I called a gunshot that had me on a waiting and said that when they got one in they said they would give me a call. Well I called them and they said they had one left so I put money down. I know they are inexpensive but I was leaving on vacation in the next week.
My question is has anyone shot one in the synthetic stock? It only weighs 6.9# and that is a little light. I shoot a 35Whelen that is loaded to the max with 225gr acubonds so a little recoil doesn't bother me but it weighs 9#.
As I search the net I find very little info on Patriot.375 so any information would help.

Shawn
 
Shawn, Welcome to the forum from E TN.
Truthfully, I can't help you out with your question, but I'll guess somebody here has some experience that may be of some aid to you. Even if they don't I know you'll have an experience w/ your new Moss Pat and I'll be looking forward to hearing from you.

We love pix, pix, pix. Rifles, targets, sandbags, mods, anything. C'mon back.
 
Welcome from MI!!

Sorry I can't help here, all my rifles are wooden stocked so I cannot compare recoil to that of one with a synthetic stock.
 
When I started looking at the 375 I thought it would make a great short to medium range rifle then I found a bullet company that made copper bullets that would make it shoot a lot flatter.
GS Custom out of South Africa for game up to and including Cape Buffalo they recommend a 200gr hollow point at high velocity (up to 3275fps). Now this is not where I was headed when I started this project but if I can get hard hitting and flat shooting I'll take it. They are not cheap but after finding tiny flakes of lead 12" from bullet hole in a deer my son shot with a 7mm-08 I started looking for alternative bullets.
 
Yes they do but does not reach the speeds that GS bullet does. If you look closely at pic the rings on this bullet are not grooves but bands that are .375 the body is .366 so very little of the bullet comes in contact with riflleing so they can be pushed faster. I ordered them from their second plant that is here in USA run by his daughter. I was looking at Barns but copper fouling seems to be present.

Found these while I was reading reviews on .375 Ruger.
Figured I would give them a try.
 
Shawn. Is this similar to what you are using?
I got this excerpt below from http://www.realguns.com/archives/143.htm
brnsbltadgscus.jpg
GS Custom HV product is unique in respect to performance, design and handloading practices. As I noted earlier, the GS bullet, far left, has an undersize shank and slightly over caliber diameter, and very narrow, driving bands. As a result, they offer very little resistance when being driven through rifling and start pressure are extraordinarily low. Load data for the GS bullet is not interchangeable with any bullet of same caliber and similar weight; not moly, not dry coated, nada. If you like the performance of these bullets, and I assume you would, you need to buy the product from GS Custom. There is no performance or loading relationship between the GS Custom product and the Barnes Triple Shock. The Barnes bullet is basically a Barnes X bullet with several grooves cut into a conventional bullet shank. Load data for the Barnes is only slightly hotter than the standard Barnes X and does not even approach the levels of the Barnes dry lubed XLC series. You might want to drop by the GS Custom web site and review the technical data for the HV and their other products and get a sense for how they perform on tough game. Impressive.
 
Yes that is where I first saw them I ordered.224 40gr for my sons 22-250 and they work well on deer even when bone is hit. Had to wait close to 4 months to get those so I ordered these so I had time to work with them and they came in a week and a half go figure.
When I ordered the the 375 I told them what I was going to hunt and they said that unless I had a chance to run into a elephant that it was less pain and suffering for me to use the 200gr.
 
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Well I guess I took my own post off the original path and I don't believe that anyone who has shot a patriot in 375 with a synthetic stock has survived to post it on internet.

In two weeks when I pick mine up and my ramblings stop you'll know Why. lol
 
I find all my synthetic stock guns are too light, and so far they are hollow too.

I take off the butt plate and fill that cavity with a plastic bag filled with aquarium sand and enough lead weights to make it feel solid and balanced.

You can position the lead fore or aft to get a better balance without changing the total weight, and it really makes a difference if you move 2 or 3oz of lead from the grip area to the butt plate region & vice versa.

On my bull barrel gun I put 4oz of lead right under the butt plate, to get a balance point at the trigger.
 
I was planing to do what seen a guy on YouTube do he filled a ruger American stock with silacon rubber a very soft and extremely stretchy type.
My plan was to fill part way let it set up then suspend a lead weight and fill around it to the plate this should let the weight move and help with recoil.

Works in my mind. Any thoughts?
 
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The rubber kit will add up to 2 pounds its self then I can tape the lead to the out side to see where it needs to be then put it in a little toward the wrist to offset rubber behind and even use a couple muzzleloader balls at very back to get it perfect I have them in 36 40 45 50 54 and 20ga should be able make it balances out.
 
Silicone sounds like an expensive PITA.

You just need a plastic bag, tape, some sand and a few lead fishing weights or scrap lead.

If you don't like the balance point you dump some sand out and move the lead around or add or subtract lead where you need it until it all works for you.

Adding lead and packed sand, or any solid mass, will reduce the recoil, but I don't know about suspending lead in live silicone rubber.

I think it will dampen vibration more than recoil.

But much depends on the ratio of total mass versus the suspended mass used, and the durometer of the rubber used.

If you do it wrong you might end up with a funny double recoil.
 
I talked this over with a engineer at work who thinks that the suspended weight would work like a mercury reducer which in reality does give you two separate hits of recoil spread out over more time. So you are correct in that aspect. The rubber is shore 10 which is rather spongey rubber is around $30 mercury dampers around $70. This is a low budget project like most of my projects with 1 kid starting college(the one who asked if I would give him my Whelen for a graduation gift that started this whole thing).

I think I may try your method first and if it works I'll save $30 at the worst I can dump it out and start over with no cost lost. And use the $30 for reloading components. But I may have to at sometime try my plan just to see if it works well or not I get that way sometimes get that way.
Thanks for the advice.
 
I bought a bag of aquarium sand, since its nice and clean artificial sand.

I paid about $5, and $2 worth of lead sinkers.
 
Was just checking in still no one else out there that has one of these 375's just ordered brass an some factory blemish bullets to use as break in for me and rifle.
 
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