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REMOVING a heatshield from a 590A1 with ghost rings

bangbang

.22LR
I need to remove a heatshield from a brand new 590a1 20" retrograde model and I would like to hear feedback on methods that *WORKED* without destroying the finish. The barrel is going to be installed in a lathe to get worked on so the shield needs to come off.
I only got 1 shot at this or else I'll need to get it refinished ...

So far I got 2 ideas.
1) put small wood shims on either side of the "ears" ( where the bolts go through to hold the shield on ) and tap them in basically opening them up and then hit it off with a 2x4

2) wrap the barrel in electricap tape a few times. Move the shield forward so the ears are over the tape, use a set of duck bill pliers to spread the ears open enough and lift it off .

The spring tension on the ears is rather high which is why I don't think idea #2 will work and I'm stuck with smacking the shield off...

Thanks
 
I removed mine but I have a bead, I unscrewed the bead and I was able to remove it with no issues.

At first, I was going to use plastic shims, but I was unsure if the metal was going to bend and stay bent.

In your case I would keep them, loosen them up for cleaning.
 
Ya the bead sight is a piece of cake, slides right on ans off..
I believe these shield gets put on from the factory before the front sight post is soldered onto the barrel because how else do they do it .

The replacement shields that are parkerized for the 590a1 even say on the packaging for bead sight, plain barrel only
 
Ya the bead sight is a piece of cake, slides right on ans off..
I believe these shield gets put on from the factory before the front sight post is soldered onto the barrel because how else do they do it .

The replacement shields that are parkerized for the 590a1 even say on the packaging for bead sight, plain barrel only

Yep it gets added before the iron sights. I wouldn't take it off, keep it for what it is! :)

Here is mine without the shield.

PXL_20210418_194049419.jpg
 
Because it needs to go into a lathe and it is a 3 jaw chuck on both ends and where the one jaw is the heatshield is in the way . I'm lengthening the forcing cone from .75" to 4" . Then backboring the barrel .020" and then reaming it out shy 1" from the muzzle to create a "modified" choke persay. Vang comp job .

This allows buckshot to shoot between 9-12" at 25yrds compared to a standard 25" spread at 25 yrds. Buckshot rule of thumb 1" of spread per yrd.

So any ideas how to get them off . I don't expect it to be flawless but I dont want to destroy the finish either.
 
Yep it gets added before the iron sights. I wouldn't take it off, keep it for what it is! :)

Here is mine without the shield.

PXL_20210418_194049419.jpg
Plus this is a standard 590 not a 590a1 barrel. Atleast the barrel isn't 590a1 because there all parkerized and this barrel isn't. The heavywalled barrels make the heatshields a big pain as you can only run the 590a1 shield as its a larger inner diameter.
 
Plus this is a standard 590 not a 590a1 barrel. Atleast the barrel isn't 590a1 because there all parkerized and this barrel isn't. The heavywalled barrels make the heatshields a big pain as you can only run the 590a1 shield as its a larger inner diameter.

Oh, slide it up high as much as you can. If it is a 590, thin walled barrel, use plastic shims, or an inverted clamp.

It should work!

Something like this to spread the top portion of the heat shield.

C-40-1.jpg
 
Oh, slide it up high as much as you can. If it is a 590, thin walled barrel, use plastic shims, or an inverted clamp.

It should work!

Something like this to spread the top portion of the heat shield.

C-40-1.jpg
I was referencing the photo you shared that it's a 590.
My barrel is the 590a1 heavy walled
 
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I'm a new member here, longtime Mossberg fan. I'm still learning how to start a new post.

Where can I find a heat shield for a 590 Class 3 with a 13.5", heavy-walled barrel? I contacted CS at Mossberg and they told me they sell the heat shield for the 590a1 20" barrel. (I was thinking about buying that version and then modifying it as some people have done on YouTube.)

Thanks in advance.
 
Hey so to answer your question as mossberg already said for the 590a1 they ONLY make a 20" heatshield part MOS16335P
They do however make regular 500/590 class barrels in both 18.5 and 20" lengths.

The shockwave has a model also that had a heatshield on it and a unique picatinny shell carrier on the receiver aswell. Maybe you can find one of those but I've never seen one in person to know how the heatshield fits on it .

The videos online are people modifying there heatshields to fit the SHOCKWAVES as thats a big thing down in the states as they can't own a sbs without a $200 brand tax stamp and all that other crap ( idc really I'm canadian so doesn't apply) so thats why all the videos you see of a shockwave and a heatshield are popular. I've never seen anybody make a video for a class 3 and a heatshield. ( maybe I'll record when I do mine next week )

NOW the shockwave is 14.375 (14 3/8) long. A standard heatshield is also 14.375" long so they fit perfectly.
as for the 590a1 class 3. Is yours a bead sight, rifled sight, or a ghost ring sight model?? All of these barrels are 14" NOT 13.5" as your post said. Unless of course it's been modified but if it's stock then it's 14".
what I'm getting at is if you install a heatshield for the 590a1 14" youll have to cut it down 3/8 of a inch to fit flush as heatshields are 14.375" as stated. The heatshield has 2 ears at the end of it the spacer and 2 bolts go through. For a 590a1 compared to standard 590 this is more open to accommodate a thicker barrel (590a1 barrels are .101" thick)
Since you have to now cut it back 3/8 to make it flush your already destroying the end of the heatshield basically JUST but a standard, cheaper, and readily available 590/500 heatshield you can cut back 3/8" and then bend it open to fit around the barrel. Why spend x1.5 for a 590a1 heatshield when you will ruin it anyways? As I'm typing this I'm realizing that's what I should've done as I ordered a 590a1 heatshield for my class 3 but I have GHOST rings so it'll be even more difficult to modify...lol oops.

Hope this provides some info. If your still stuck on a 590a1 heatshield go to wolverine supplies they have them that's where I got mine...
 
Thanks, bangbang.
My barrel is thick walled and 13.5" from receiver to end with a bead sight. I think I'm looking at buying the version from Mossberg and having a gunsmith modify it.
 
Again all 590a1 class 3 are 14" a barrel isn't measured from the receiever face to the barrel externally. The internal part of the barrel that goes into the receiver has a notch ( chamber where the shell casing sits) this is where you measure from. So there may be 13.5" of exposed barrel but the actual barrel length is 14".

No need to pay a gunsmith 75 a hour when you can do it yourself. Plus you have a bead sight so even better piece of cake. Just put the shield on ( you need the bead removed first obviously be careful as its fine thread. Use a small adjustable wrench and gently turn it off. Slide on the shield. On the underside of the barrel that is exposed take a sharpie and put a dot where the barrel ends and the heatshield passes the barrel.
Put it on a bench or a vise and take a die grinder / zip cut / or a cutting wheel and just cut it straight down. Now you have the length.
Next is to drill a hole for your bead sight. Measure using metric ( for precision as imperial 1/64th get hard to see on a tape or ruler ...... and measure the end of the barrel to the center of the hole . Now copy that measurement onto the top dead center of the heatshield and then however far inward . Put a dot. Now either use a punch to make a center mark for a drill bit for 1 hole only. or use a small drill bit first then go up to the final size. The hole simply needs to be big enough for the bit to fit so like 3/32 or 1/8 id guess . Drill the hole , slide it on. If it lines up as it should thats steps done. Now all you need to do is get a allen bolt with lockout or a standard bolt and a lock nut ( typically smaller hardware is Allen head as a allen key won't strip inside a pocket easily like a small wrench could strip the outside of a hexagon bolt. Put the right size bolt through. Put a nut on. Done. You'll only be able to use 1 bolt as you'll be cutting off the first hole as you'll be taking off .375" or 3/8 which the first hold falls under.

Done
 
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