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sighting of scope ?

mojo0107

.22LR
I've got my set up all ready to go and with al my experience with hunting rifles I am so mad I'm ready to get rid of it...help me out. I've adjusted the scope to the max and nothing more and its still off. the first pic is of the gun and then you can see my grooping at 100 yrds. You can laugh if you want but I don't have experience with a handle on my gun and think that could be the issue. :?:
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IMG_0951_zps2ff90cc3.jpg
 
Not too shabby for 100yd.

The problem is that even with the low rings your line of sight through the optic is a good 3-4" above the bore axis. The extreme height above the bore is causing you to run out of elevation adjustment before you can calibrate the optic's point of aim to the bullet's point of impact, especially considering that your average .22lr load will drop as much as a foot as it travels to 100yd.

You'd do much better backing off to an optic with a 2x or even 4x fixed power magnification and a slightly larger objective diameter. You won't need as much adjustment in the optic and will be able to compensate for bullet drop a lot more effectively...
 
This stinks...I researched scopes but not for this hi rise mount. Now I've got two scopes and neither will zero in at 100 yrds. I guess it's back to ebay. any suggestions as to what I should go for, it's my son and daughters guns.
WAIT!!!! That is a 4x32 scope.
 
He's already got the handle rail height to deal with - tough it adjusts the angle more height could make shooting position, erm, unconventional not to mention the zero process.
 
mojo0107 said:
That is a 4x32 scope.

It's not necessarily the magnification, but the overall length of the tube that's causing the problem. The longer the tube, the more fine the adjustments. What would be ideal is more of a magnified red dot of sorts. I've got an iTac 3x Prismatic scope on one of my ARs and an NcStar MK III on my wife's AR-22. Here's a review I did on the iTac a while back...

iTac Defense 3x Prismatic Scope Review

The shorter distance between the lenses will make adjustments more extreme and will help compensate for the height of the optic mount.

However in your situation, I would be more likely to try an angled replacement rail before spending any money on new optics. It shouldn't take much of an angle to get your POA/POI relationship evened out. Instead of a whole new mount, try looking for an angled drop-in replacement rail. I know I've seen them out there before.

-OR-

You could try the shim under the rear end of your factory rail to create a slight downward/forward angle. A small washer between few cut to fit pieces of rubber might do the trick. You could add or remove height as needed...
 
I haven't gotten to the range with my new 715T yet, but I bought a BSA 4x30 AR Carry Handle Tactical Weapon Rifle Scope TW4x30. It came with ring mounts and carry handle mount (rail).
I noticed that the carry handle mount has a slight downward angle (1/8") back to front. Is this to fix the problem that mojo0107 has?
I would rather use the mount that came with the gun which is straight in line with the barrel, less weight, and larger sight opening.
Any thoughts?
 
Yes, the mount angle is designed to work with the angle of the carry handle.

I'd try them both and see which one works best for you...
 
I have to try this shim thing too....i have the A2 style handle and a scope up top.

My question is y are so many ppl bent out of shape about this "weld" b.s.? I can see through the scope just fine and still use the iron sights.
 
stickyricky3 said:
My question is y are so many ppl bent out of shape about this "weld" b.s.? I can see through the scope just fine and still use the iron sights.

It's not BS. A good check weld keeps your head and neck muscles still and helps keep the rifle still, even from a rest. It also allows for a consistent sight picture. You'll likely still hit what you're shooting at. You'll just not be as precise and consistent as you could be. Depends on what your goal is. You can get "gopher" accuracy without a decent weld at short to intermediate distances. But if you want to explore the far end of the bullet's capabilities, you'll need to stabilize the rifle better than that.
 
yz9890 said:
stickyricky3 said:
My question is y are so many ppl bent out of shape about this "weld" b.s.? I can see through the scope just fine and still use the iron sights.

It's not BS. A good check weld keeps your head and neck muscles still and helps keep the rifle still, even from a rest. It also allows for a consistent sight picture. You'll likely still hit what you're shooting at. You'll just not be as precise and consistent as you could be. Depends on what your goal is. You can get "gopher" accuracy without a decent weld at short to intermediate distances. But if you want to explore the far end of the bullet's capabilities, you'll need to stabilize the rifle better than that.

But what I mean is that it doesn't necessarely have to be the cheek is it? I left out the "cheek" part in the first post. I would say that in order to see through the scope properly i use my jaw/chin instead but can still keep the muscles in the neck and stabilize the rifle and what not. On another forum about mosin nagants a guy was debating with me saying that the jaw/chin is too far away from the eyes and eyes too far above the bore and so on. depending on the set up I would like to argue that this can still be achieved with the chin just as long as the rifle is stable right?
 
stickyricky3 said:
yz9890 said:
stickyricky3 said:
My question is y are so many ppl bent out of shape about this "weld" b.s.? I can see through the scope just fine and still use the iron sights.

It's not BS. A good check weld keeps your head and neck muscles still and helps keep the rifle still, even from a rest. It also allows for a consistent sight picture. You'll likely still hit what you're shooting at. You'll just not be as precise and consistent as you could be. Depends on what your goal is. You can get "gopher" accuracy without a decent weld at short to intermediate distances. But if you want to explore the far end of the bullet's capabilities, you'll need to stabilize the rifle better than that.

But what I mean is that it doesn't necessarely have to be the cheek is it? I left out the "cheek" part in the first post. I would say that in order to see through the scope properly i use my jaw/chin instead but can still keep the muscles in the neck and stabilize the rifle and what not. On another forum about mosin nagants a guy was debating with me saying that the jaw/chin is too far away from the eyes and eyes too far above the bore and so on. depending on the set up I would like to argue that this can still be achieved with the chin just as long as the rifle is stable right?

I think whatever you can do consistently that effectively immobilizes your head/neck/shoulder and gives you a consistent sight picture should be fine. I've seen a lot of people with fairly odd stances put round after round through the same hole. If you shoot (or plan to ever shoot) magnum rifles, make sure your technique works with that kind of recoil also because you probably don't want to learn 2 different techniques.
 
Thanks for the advice there. Ya thats what I was thinking. I dont know about putting rounds through the same hole but I have alway done well for the most part using the "weld" at the jaw.
 
mojo0107 said:
I've got my set up all ready to go and with al my experience with hunting rifles I am so mad I'm ready to get rid of it...help me out. I've adjusted the scope to the max and nothing more and its still off. the first pic is of the gun and then you can see my grooping at 100 yrds. You can laugh if you want but I don't have experience with a handle on my gun and think that could be the issue. :?:


You probably already know all this below, so it may be redundant, but might be a tip or two that would be helpful. :)

Take a look at the Scope videos from Sniper101 here: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... r+101&sm=1
 
your cheek and bone structure will not change in relationship to your eye, your jaw bone can and will from time to time.

Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk
 
I have a quick question, When I look through my scope, sometimes I see black around the edges and it's like looking through a tube at the wrong angle and I don't have a full view out the end, more like crescent. I know zilch about scopes, not sure what to do.
 
Gunowner99 said:
I have a quick question, When I look through my scope, sometimes I see black around the edges and it's like looking through a tube at the wrong angle and I don't have a full view out the end, more like crescent. I know zilch about scopes, not sure what to do.

Scopes are like a pair of glasses. Sounds like your moving your head closer or farther from the scope to try to get a good focus. You need to stop doing that. Find the right spot for your cheek weld and adjust the scope focus for that scope to eye distance and stick to it.
 
Meaning, move the scope in the rings? If so, at what mag and yardage adjustment do I do that at?

Sorry to be such a newb!
 
Gunowner99 said:
Meaning, move the scope in the rings? If so, at what mag and yardage adjustment do I do that at?

Sorry to be such a newb!

Before we go any further with this, it would be helpful to know what brand, model, scope you have.
 
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