Slugs are like Kicking Mules !!
- Thread starter Lefty9
- Start date
I also bought some Federal Vital-shock 2-3/4" Magnum 00 buck, which carries 12 pellets.
I thought the magnums were all 3" shells.
Anyhow, my 500 says 2-3/4" on the barrel, but says nothing about magnums.
Is this just some marketing ploy, or are these real magnums that I should avoid shooting from my Moss 500?
I thought the magnums were all 3" shells.
Anyhow, my 500 says 2-3/4" on the barrel, but says nothing about magnums.
Is this just some marketing ploy, or are these real magnums that I should avoid shooting from my Moss 500?
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If it fits your models chamber, you can shoot it. There are some exceptions to that rule, like no slugs through the overboard barrels and and some other things with choke tubes, but in a 500 cylinder bore fixed choke gun you can safely shoot it. You'll probably feel it a little more because of the increase in the weight of the shot.
Frank McCarthy
.410
Nope, not at all. I wish I had more to run through it. It sure lit up the range though.
Thanks. I simply hadn't a clue about that.
Based on what I've shot so far I don't expect it to be a problem.
I don't think it hurts the hand as much as the shoulder because the arm is a much better shock absorber than the shoulder.
I'll get to test that theory tomorrow with the magnums and some deer slugs.
The key to slug shooting is getting very solid shoulder-pocket placement with the stock (a Limbsaver or Kick-Eez pad doesn't hurt). Along with that, a PG forms a very solid triangle that allows some downward-pull in recoil. Generally, most folks can get a good pocket, with practice, and maybe a couple of pointers. My suspicion is that if you're a large-framed guy, you may not have been forced to get that placement down until stepping up to a load that overcomes what you can easily absorb with your arms, i.e., you may be doing a bicep/forearm flex more than pulling into your shoulder.
Push forward on the forend while pulling back on the pistol grip, lean into it and put weight on your front foot and let 'er rip. It ain't bad at all.
NEVER EVER shoot 3" slugs from a bench.
Brenneke makes some of the hardest recoiling ammo on earth. But worth it.
NEVER EVER shoot 3" slugs from a bench.
Brenneke makes some of the hardest recoiling ammo on earth. But worth it.
Lefty9
.270 WIN
Lefty, that's the part I forgot!
Hope it helps!
Or a 3.5" slug....Unless you enjoy pain.
Lefty9
.270 WIN
Yes ! After physical shooting , I believe you nailed it !!
Good deal! If you're pretty sure you're getting a good "pocket", if you still have significant discomfort from less than a dozen or so slugs, it would be worth finding a local shotty instructor, or someone who's done a good bit of 3-gun, to help you refine your technique.
Not all slugs kick. Low recoil or "managed recoil" slugs are quite pleasant to shoot. I make them all the time for my deer hunting buddies using the cheap federal bulk pack hulls.
Penetration is excellent too.
Penetration is excellent too.
Titegroup works well in low brass.
Longshot works well in high brass.
Longshot is a little dirty, but typical for a little residue left in the barrel after shooting and hunting.
You may also want to look into clays, international clays, and titewad if you can find them. Those are among some of the other powders that is pretty popular with shotgun reloaders.
Also, Remington makes the best hulls for reloading too. Federal and Winchester are alright, but the Remington STS are among the cheapest factory loads you can get in my area, and then after you get to shoot them, you can reload the hulls upwards of 10 times a piece or more if you're loading them light. Best $7 or $8 you can spend for reloading shotgun. And I like the STS hulls because they're a smooth sided hull and eject easy too.
Anyway, here is some load data from the powder manufacturer itself. Tells you which wad, powder, etc combination too.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/shotgun
Also, the MEC brand loader is more expensive, but I am using the Lee Load-all 2. It's made of plastic, but has worked well and they also have conversion units from 12, 16, and 20 gauge shells, which makes it pretty useful.
Longshot works well in high brass.
Longshot is a little dirty, but typical for a little residue left in the barrel after shooting and hunting.
You may also want to look into clays, international clays, and titewad if you can find them. Those are among some of the other powders that is pretty popular with shotgun reloaders.
Also, Remington makes the best hulls for reloading too. Federal and Winchester are alright, but the Remington STS are among the cheapest factory loads you can get in my area, and then after you get to shoot them, you can reload the hulls upwards of 10 times a piece or more if you're loading them light. Best $7 or $8 you can spend for reloading shotgun. And I like the STS hulls because they're a smooth sided hull and eject easy too.
Anyway, here is some load data from the powder manufacturer itself. Tells you which wad, powder, etc combination too.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/shotgun
Also, the MEC brand loader is more expensive, but I am using the Lee Load-all 2. It's made of plastic, but has worked well and they also have conversion units from 12, 16, and 20 gauge shells, which makes it pretty useful.