I posted about some of these problems previously but I don't think I posted about all of them in the same place.
Being reminded of it all by a new member here I decided that I would compile this for posterity.
I have a an Uberti evil Roy .38/.357 and compared to a Colt or S&W it's crap IMHO.
It looks glossy, but if you look close the metal finishing is not perfect like an American-made gun was. I could forgive that. Guns get scratched so what the heck.
BUT...If the one I own is a representative sample of the breed, I wouldn't ever bother trying to shoot .357s from one of these.
I have three serious problems with the .38/.357evil Roy, and they have not yet been resolved.
The first one is that the main cylinder pin would get dented and burred a little bit, by it's release/retainer every time I fired the gun. It was worse when I shot .357s.
That burr would prevent the main pin from being removed easily.
Eventually I figured out that I needed to reshape the notch in the main pin so it made better contact with the retainer. The groove in the pin just had the wrong radius on it.
Also I think the main pin is too soft and needs to be D2 steel or something harder than the release/retainer. If it gets damaged it is easily removed and replaced but not so the main pin!
Anyhow I made that work.
The second issue is that the cylinder was not honed the same on all six holes. One was ridged bit, and one ringed even worse.
Whenever I shot the gun those two holes would hang on to the spent case. With .357s they swell a little bit more and I literally had to hammer the cases out of the chambers.
I measured them carefully and I can hone the cylinders out a bit, but the fit will never be 100% because there is undercutting. If I hone it enough to remove that the chambers will be too large.
Anyhow so far I haven't bothered.
The third problem is the screw that retains the ejector mount to the muzzle end of the barrel. There's not enough threads on the screw and there's not enough threads in the barrel.
After less than 24 rounds it Shook loose, and I tightened it. In fact every screw on the gun had shook loose and I clean and lubed and tightened the entire thing.
The rest of the gun stays pretty tight, but I have 200 rounds through this pistol now and that screw cannot stay tight.
Red Loctite will hold it for a little while but after about 6 rounds the muzzle heats up and it just melts.
You run 6 more through it and that little screw shakes loose. I'm not certain but I don't think they drilled the barrel quite deep enough before they tapped it.
I may solder it in place.
Anyhow I've loaded up a whole bunch of .38 specials and .357 mags for this gun, that I don't dare shoot thru it.
Being reminded of it all by a new member here I decided that I would compile this for posterity.
I have a an Uberti evil Roy .38/.357 and compared to a Colt or S&W it's crap IMHO.
It looks glossy, but if you look close the metal finishing is not perfect like an American-made gun was. I could forgive that. Guns get scratched so what the heck.
BUT...If the one I own is a representative sample of the breed, I wouldn't ever bother trying to shoot .357s from one of these.
I have three serious problems with the .38/.357evil Roy, and they have not yet been resolved.
The first one is that the main cylinder pin would get dented and burred a little bit, by it's release/retainer every time I fired the gun. It was worse when I shot .357s.
That burr would prevent the main pin from being removed easily.
Eventually I figured out that I needed to reshape the notch in the main pin so it made better contact with the retainer. The groove in the pin just had the wrong radius on it.
Also I think the main pin is too soft and needs to be D2 steel or something harder than the release/retainer. If it gets damaged it is easily removed and replaced but not so the main pin!
Anyhow I made that work.
The second issue is that the cylinder was not honed the same on all six holes. One was ridged bit, and one ringed even worse.
Whenever I shot the gun those two holes would hang on to the spent case. With .357s they swell a little bit more and I literally had to hammer the cases out of the chambers.
I measured them carefully and I can hone the cylinders out a bit, but the fit will never be 100% because there is undercutting. If I hone it enough to remove that the chambers will be too large.
Anyhow so far I haven't bothered.
The third problem is the screw that retains the ejector mount to the muzzle end of the barrel. There's not enough threads on the screw and there's not enough threads in the barrel.
After less than 24 rounds it Shook loose, and I tightened it. In fact every screw on the gun had shook loose and I clean and lubed and tightened the entire thing.
The rest of the gun stays pretty tight, but I have 200 rounds through this pistol now and that screw cannot stay tight.
Red Loctite will hold it for a little while but after about 6 rounds the muzzle heats up and it just melts.
You run 6 more through it and that little screw shakes loose. I'm not certain but I don't think they drilled the barrel quite deep enough before they tapped it.
I may solder it in place.
Anyhow I've loaded up a whole bunch of .38 specials and .357 mags for this gun, that I don't dare shoot thru it.
