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The No Solder Ghost Ring Sight Conversion

carbinemike

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I had wanted a GRS model but could not find one. I ended up buying a bead site model. I liked the bead better than I thought I would but part of me still wanted the GSR. A thread where Nitesite explained to me his reasons for carrying slugs on his service shotgun (put distance between yourself and trouble) made me want the GSR more. I did not want the cost or hassle of having a gunsmith silver solder the base onto my barrel and re-coat it so I decided to make the change myself without soldering.
I started by gathering the items needed:
1) Mossberg Ghost Ring Site Conversion Kit #SKU 95300 which was about $70.
2) #5-40 Thread tap. About $6.60. The hardware stores here only carry #4 and #6 taps and screws. #5 is an oddball. I ordered it from McMaster-Carr #26955A25 http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/2531/=u62gw2
3) #5-40 x 5/8" long flat head cap screws, black oxide finish. As above I ordered them from McMaster-Carr, #91253A130. 100 for $9.25. I found packs of 10 etc. but they were $6 or so. If anyone wants to do this PM me and I'll send the screws for free. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3116/=u62j7p

I had hoped the base would be solid as it would have been an easier project but it is hollowed out some.

The steps to complete:
1) Insure the shotgun is safely cleared and remove the barrel.
2) Remove the bead site.
3) I put some masking tape on top of the site base and marked two centers for the mounting holes 21/32 apart and center punched the points.
4) I drilled through each with a #30 drill which is a clearance hole for #5-40 thread.
5) I put a screw into the front site base hole and threaded it into the tapped hole for the bead site.
6) I ran the drill into the rear site base hole and lightly marked the barrel with it. Keep the drill (I used a vice and bench top drill) as square as possible to the barrel centerline.
7) I removed the site from the barrel and center punched the mark I made.
8) I used a #39 drill (tap drill for a #5-40) and again, keeping the barrel square to the drill, I drilled the tap drill hole. I went slow to try and help keep the burr down when the bit hits the barrel bore.
9) I used a little tap Majic cutting oil and tapped the second #5-40 hole.
10) Next, I used the 90 degree countersink tool I have for cleaning up MIL crimped primer holes and the holes on the site base were countersunk. I went slow and kept checking the depth with one of the screws. I didn't want the countersink to open up the holes any more than necessary to get the top of the screw flush with the site base top.
11) I screwed the site base to the barrel and noted how much thread stuck into the barrel bore.
12) I drilled and tapped a hole into a piece of metal I had, threaded the screw into it until the amount I wanted to grind off stuck out the other side and then the extra thread was ground off. I did this because I didn't have a #5-40 die to clean up the threads if they were damaged while grinding.
13) I repeated step 12 as needed until the screw was as long as possible but didn't stick into the barrel bore.
14) Some blue Loctite was applied to the screws and the site base was torqued down.
15) I had trouble drifting the front site into the base dovetail. Mossberg tolerances weren't right. A little filing on the dovetail and it went in nicely.
16) The rear site was mounted on existing holes that Mossberg had drilled and tapped into the receiver.
17) The most enjoyable part was sighting it in and practicing acquiring targets. I was a little slower than the bead but slugs at 25 and 50 yards were great! If I ever want to go back I can be back to a bead site in 10 minutes...can't do that with solder.

If I can make any recommendation it would be to wait and get the gun you want. It is cheaper and easier than turning one into what you wanted.

Pictures say quickly what I rambled on above to describe so (sorry for the crappy after pic...lousy phone):
10378218_756060507798913_4551727759030532628_n.jpg

1238392_756060567798907_7070933111236230671_n.jpg
 
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Thanks OM. I looked all over the internet for a way to do it without solder and the only thing I came up with was double sided tape. Double side tape seems like a rig job to me that won't last. I hope this will help someone out.
 
that is the coolest thing I've seen someone do to a gun in a while, way to think outside the box.
Seriously......I love creative thinking and respect how you took no shortcuts like so many do when trying to get around silver soldering services. I've never seen anything other than silver solder that is acceptable until today.
 
Thanks for the kind words Oli and LES! You made my day.

^ This.
Way to go Mike, excellent work! I think this deserves sticky thread in the maintenance/modification sub-forum...

I hadn't thought about the maint./modification sub forum so thanks for moving it where it will likely be found in the future by someone seeking an alternative.
 
Mike, fantastic job on this! You just wait... people will want to send their barrels to ya for this mod;) I'm assuming you'll be using the GRS picatinny rear sight base that just mounts to the top rail?
 
Well AK, I have enough screws now to do 50 guns so who knows? 1 down and 49 to go. If anyone wants to try this or just needs a couple #5-40 screws PM me and I'll send some. I will never use them up.

The rear site from the Mossberg kits screws directly onto the receiver. 590A1's have pre drilled and tapped holes but I think 500's need them added.
images
 
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Great job Mike!! I love that you can always go back to the bead without much hassle.
 
That is a very nice job, I really like beads but it sure is a good mod for anyone that don't and your able to change back if you desire, great idea.
 
Nice work! I really like that front sight and I agree with Oli, and second what LES mentioned.

It's weird, I was just thinking about the three dot models, I have an itch to use the tritium beads and was just thinking about the process for that right down to drilling and tapping.

Very nicely done!
 
It's weird, I was just thinking about the three dot models, I have an itch to use the tritium beads and was just thinking about the process for that right down to drilling and tapping.
If you want some screws let me know. I'll send you all you need. I had to get a box of 50. That thread wasn't available in hardware stores.
 
Does anyone have any idea if this would work just using a Meprolight tritium bead and the rear ghost ring piece ??
Possibly "shim" the bead sight up a tad using an appropriate crush washer or what have you. As I understand it the Meprolight comes with a with the threads long from the factory, but long enought IDK.
http://www.meprolight.com/default.a...itemid={240E1DB5-E898-4638-8414-0BC8889868B4}

This could eliminate the need to drill and tap extra holes. Also my 500 has 4 holes drilled, tapped and plugged on the top of the reciever. This is where the ghost ring attaches - correct .?.

EXCELLENT WRITE UP - THANKS
 
I don't why the pictures disappeared again. I added them again to the original post. I had the Meprolight bead that you are looking at before I made the switch. It doesn't come close to being long enough to work with the rear ring. You wouldn't be able to get the two to work together for accurate aiming.

Yes, the four holes on the receiver are for the rear site set up. It's nice that they are pre drilled and tapped.

The only thing I know of would be to add the kit as I detailed above and use this Meprolight tritium front site that's made for it:
http://www.amazon.com/Meprolight-Mossberg-Night-Sight-Tru-Dot/dp/B0002INGOM

Good luck and let us know what you decide on!
 
Nice job. I once did this with an Miniature Machine clamp on sight. Worked fine bit it is a bit expensive. Today I would just use your method.

I think ghost ring sights are necessary on any self defense shotgun. JMHO after using them for many years.
 
As the founder of the "fix it even though it's not broke", "I can make it better" and "KISS" club, my hat's off to you. Now I'm curious enough to order a Mossberg Ghost Ring sight to see if a receiver sight will help minimize my variable eye dominance woes.
 
I'm just curious. Why not just solder it if that's the standard way. I haven't don't any firearm soldering yet but I've done a tone of electrical soldering and a fair amount of pipe sweating. I assume sweating a sight on would be similar to the later.
 
I had wanted a GRS model but could not find one. I ended up buying a bead site model. I liked the bead better than I thought I would but part of me still wanted the GSR. A thread where Nitesite explained to me his reasons for carrying slugs on his service shotgun (put distance between yourself and trouble) made me want the GSR more. I did not want the cost or hassle of having a gunsmith silver solder the base onto my barrel and re-coat it so I decided to make the change myself without soldering.
I started by gathering the items needed:
1) Mossberg Ghost Ring Site Conversion Kit #SKU 95300 which was about $70.
2) #5-40 Thread tap. About $6.60. The hardware stores here only carry #4 and #6 taps and screws. #5 is an oddball. I ordered it from McMaster-Carr #26955A25 http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/2531/=u62gw2
3) #5-40 x 5/8" long flat head cap screws, black oxide finish. As above I ordered them from McMaster-Carr, #91253A130. 100 for $9.25. I found packs of 10 etc. but they were $6 or so. If anyone wants to do this PM me and I'll send the screws for free. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3116/=u62j7p

I had hoped the base would be solid as it would have been an easier project but it is hollowed out some.

The steps to complete:
1) Insure the shotgun is safely cleared and remove the barrel.
2) Remove the bead site.
3) I put some masking tape on top of the site base and marked two centers for the mounting holes 21/32 apart and center punched the points.
4) I drilled through each with a #30 drill which is a clearance hole for #5-40 thread.
5) I put a screw into the front site base hole and threaded it into the tapped hole for the bead site.
6) I ran the drill into the rear site base hole and lightly marked the barrel with it. Keep the drill (I used a vice and bench top drill) as square as possible to the barrel centerline.
7) I removed the site from the barrel and center punched the mark I made.
8) I used a #39 drill (tap drill for a #5-40) and again, keeping the barrel square to the drill, I drilled the tap drill hole. I went slow to try and help keep the burr down when the bit hits the barrel bore.
9) I used a little tap Majic cutting oil and tapped the second #5-40 hole.
10) Next, I used the 90 degree countersink tool I have for cleaning up MIL crimped primer holes and the holes on the site base were countersunk. I went slow and kept checking the depth with one of the screws. I didn't want the countersink to open up the holes any more than necessary to get the top of the screw flush with the site base top.
11) I screwed the site base to the barrel and noted how much thread stuck into the barrel bore.
12) I drilled and tapped a hole into a piece of metal I had, threaded the screw into it until the amount I wanted to grind off stuck out the other side and then the extra thread was ground off. I did this because I didn't have a #5-40 die to clean up the threads if they were damaged while grinding.
13) I repeated step 12 as needed until the screw was as long as possible but didn't stick into the barrel bore.
14) Some blue Loctite was applied to the screws and the site base was torqued down.
15) I had trouble drifting the front site into the base dovetail. Mossberg tolerances weren't right. A little filing on the dovetail and it went in nicely.
16) The rear site was mounted on existing holes that Mossberg had drilled and tapped into the receiver.
17) The most enjoyable part was sighting it in and practicing acquiring targets. I was a little slower than the bead but slugs at 25 and 50 yards were great! If I ever want to go back I can be back to a bead site in 10 minutes...can't do that with solder.

If I can make any recommendation it would be to wait and get the gun you want. It is cheaper and easier than turning one into what you wanted.

Pictures say quickly what I rambled on above to describe so (sorry for the crappy after pic...lousy phone):
10378218_756060507798913_4551727759030532628_n.jpg

1238392_756060567798907_7070933111236230671_n.jpg
I will agree somewhat. I completely customized my Mossberg 930 Auto loader which if I added up everything that I put on it IE Improvement parts and stocks modifications I probably spent as much as the cost of a new 940.
Having said that it was a lot of fun changing out the parts and it I have a one of 930 Auto loader Plus I have a custom barrel (181/2", threaded for RemChoke extended choke tubes.) Technically the rim choke choke tubes make the barrel 19 in long because they're extended a half inch from the original muzzle. As I stated before it is a really nice shotgun with the 18 and a half inch barrel which for the 930, seems like they've become unobtainium unless you can find a used one. The other parts were reduced tension trigger spring to get a safe three and a half pound trigger pull, and improved safety button, and the rest were SBE precision and OR3 gun parts.
Oh yeah and I put a Choate stock on it. It was a fun project and I probably have a little bit better Parts on mine than the 940 Auto loader so I ended up with a nice shotgun and had fun doing it. I do however still agree that sometimes it's better to buy just a new one instead of thinking a lot of money into an older one unless obviously you do it as a hobby project.
 
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