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.30-30 my latest reloads, and the state of the economy

CaddmannQ said:
So far I haven't had an issue with copper fouling, but I do clean the gun well after every trip.

We've loaded some FMJ 165 gr boat-tailed spitzers for the next test rounds, but I would not be able to load the tube mag with them. too dangerous.

I'm intending to shoot 2-round groups & we'll see if the fliers calm down.
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Copper is hard to get out. I am not sure how effective Hoppe's is on copper but my MVP had a streak in it and it took Sweet's and J&B to get it out.
 
I'm not seeing anything that looks like copper, but I'll run a bit of acid wash through it and see if the patch turns green.
 
CaddmannQ said:
I'm not seeing anything that looks like copper, but I'll run a bit of acid wash through it and see if the patch turns green.
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Green or blue, I don't remember but all my patches were pretty black and then white...almost anyway. But it took a lot of scrubbing. Too bad these don't clean like the Marlins. Take the bolt and lever out and you clean them from the back end.
 
There's just two screws and two pins. There it is in my avatar, all apart.

Bolt, lever assembly, firing pin, two screws, and two pins.

It takes 5 or 10 minutes If you've never done one, because you have to learn which way to jiggle the lever.
 
CaddmannQ said:
There's just two screws and two pins. There it is in my avatar, all apart.

Bolt, lever assembly, firing pin, two screws, and two pins.

It takes 5 or 10 minutes If you've never done one, because you have to learn which way to jiggle the lever.
Click to expand...

Done mine several times but ya still clean it from the muzzle right?
 
I use a bore snake from the breech, if the bolt is in.

Otherwise I use a soft stainless 1-piece rod. I also have a brass rod, but it's 3-piece & I just use it for pistols.
 
CaddmannQ said:
I use a bore snake from the breech, if the bolt is in.

Otherwise I use a soft stainless 1-piece rod. I also have a brass rod, but it's 3-piece & I just use it for pistols.
Click to expand...
I like the bore snake for a quick swab but I don't think it is really thorough. It is what I ran through my rifle several times when it was new and I needed to tear the gun down and re do all the innards and the bore. I have an Allen gun vice/lead sled and it is pretty solid for cleaning but 25 lbs with all my other junk is just too heavy to haul to the range. My Gorilla bag is 31 lbs so I do without the gun vice at the range and use it for work and cleaning at home. If it ever stops raining and dries out some I will try to get to the range but it doesn't look good.
 
Here is something interesting...but...if this is optimum, why is it not used. (Why a 1/10" twist?)

If one believes this, a 170 grain bullet with a length of 1.022" (Sierra FNSP) requires a twist of 1/13.9". A 125 gr bullet of .725" requires a twist of 1/19.6".

It is the Greenhill Formula: 150 (constant) x bullet diameter squared / bullet length.

A 1/10 twist seems a bit fast for anything but a huge 220 gr bullet. I do not have any of those so if someone has a 220 gr .308 bullet and can measure it please post the length here. I am real curious about the twist required.

Here is a calculator that may help see the calculations in action:

http://kwk.us/twist.html

I am going to post this in my "joined the club" thread also.
 
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