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Model 510 hard to load

Dunigan1

Copper BB
hey guys,
I have a new 510 .410 bore and i've shot about 25 rounds with it. My 9 yr old daughter who i bought the gun for can barely pump it and its hard for me too. i'm 6'3 and 250 lbs lol. I have every gun from saige 12 ga to 300 whisper. So i know my guns. This is just ridiculous. I'm no gunsmith tho. I've cleaned
and oiled the gun numerous times with no luck. Any info would be appreciated. She's about to give up and go back to her .22 and I can't have that!!!
 
Dunigan1 said:
hey guys,
I have a new 510 .410 bore and i've shot about 25 rounds with it. My 9 yr old daughter who i bought the gun for can barely pump it and its hard for me too. i'm 6'3 and 250 lbs lol. I have every gun from saige 12 ga to 300 whisper. So i know my guns. This is just ridiculous. I'm no gunsmith tho. I've cleaned
and oiled the gun numerous times with no luck. Any info would be appreciated. She's about to give up and go back to her .22 and I can't have that!!!

hello. welcome from NY and congrats to your daughter on her new mossy.

sorry to hear about the problem you're having. obviously something is jamming.
i would contact mossberg if you can't spot anything yourself.
we have a contact at mossberg, send him an email.

Joe Zakher
jzakher@maverickarms.com

keep us posted.
 
I had the same problem with the same gun. I detail stripped everything, cleaned it, polished the high wear areas using my well worn 500E guts spilled out in front of me as a guide, lubed it, reassembled, and then cycled the action hundreds of times. It's still not nearly as smooth as my 15 yr. old gun, but it is 100% better now.
 
Hi all. New to the forums. I recently purchased a 510 mini (20ga) and shot it for the first time this weekend. I had trouble loading shells into the magazine tube. The shells would go all the way until the metal cap, but refused to go over/past the cartridge stop. After struggling for several minutes I found that pulling the forearm ever so slightly allowed the cartridge to push fully into the tube. I have not yet fully stripped and reassembled the shotgun but will try to do that tomorrow or Wednesday and see if that addresses the issue. Is there something that locks the tube to prevent loading that might be causing this? I think my issue is different than the linked thread at the top of this thread, as I don’t have issues loading shells from the tube to chamber, just into the tube itself. But perhaps they are similar issues (an overly bent cartridge stop)?

Will post update once I do field strip and clean…


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When you have the gun stripped down take a look at the finish coating on the lifter, cartridge stop and ejector. I seen cases where the coating is so thick it impacts cycling. I've actually taken the coating completely off all three components with scotchbtight pads. Also looks at the action bars. You'll typically see some running of the finish especially on the left side after a number of cycles. Over time the finish will wear off or use a pad on it to smooth it .

Dry cycling a couple of hundred times will smooth out the action.

Regards
 
Thanks Ernst.

Also, the inside of the mag tube is sharp (past the spring “cap”). I found when pushing hard to load the shells the over time my thumb was getting nicked on the sharp interior. If loading was less of a struggle it wouldn’t be an issue.

Is it always sharp? Can the inside of the mag tube be filed to smooth it out a little? Or will that cause other issues?


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so I field stripped my 510 and I am missing a pin that holds one of the levers that attaches to the forearm. My forearm was always a little wobbly, but I just assumed it didn't have a good tight tolerance. Now I can see it was missing a pin. I will email Joe Zakher to see if he can help.
 
so I field stripped my 510 and I am missing a pin that holds one of the levers that attaches to the forearm. My forearm was always a little wobbly, but I just assumed it didn't have a good tight tolerance. Now I can see it was missing a pin. I will email Joe Zakher to see if he can help.

Sometimes Midway and Brownell's have 500 parts. Or your local ACE Hardware may have a pin or roll pin that will work. Bring your foreend in and/or measure the pin on the other side. My local ACE I would bring in my whole shotgun--they wouldn't care... :D

BTW, Welcome Aboard from the Daytona Beach area. :)
 
Sometimes Midway and Brownell's have 500 parts. Or your local ACE Hardware may have a pin or roll pin that will work. Bring your foreend in and/or measure the pin on the other side. My local ACE I would bring in my whole shotgun--they wouldn't care... :D

BTW, Welcome Aboard from the Daytona Beach area. :)
Sometimes Midway and Brownell's have 500 parts. Or your local ACE Hardware may have a pin or roll pin that will work. Bring your foreend in and/or measure the pin on the other side. My local ACE I would bring in my whole shotgun--they wouldn't care... :D

BTW, Welcome Aboard from the Daytona Beach area. :)
Thanks Bobster. It looks like it’s a pretty special pin.

cd8bbfbe9697ecc6a856114a89f39588.jpg



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Yup, I'd say that is special... :( I'm not familiar with .410 slide tubes. Is this a metal tube with the bars coming off of it and foreend slides over and is held on with a ring nut? Thanks for updating, also! :)

PS: this is off a M500 12ga.

m500slide.jpg
 
Last edited:
Actually this is a 20 ga. Here are two additional photos. One of the forearm (showing hole where pin goes) and another showing the flat rail (rod) that attaches to the forearm by the pin. There are rails on both sides. One of the 2 rails was missing the pin. So the rail has a guide on the inside of the forearm, but without the pin it’s loose. I’m actually surprised it functioned when loose.

f2a32096bd8af16bebc6325839c8f724.jpg

007dd3984a1e0b1d5ec9edced4674362.jpg



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That looks like a pinned plastic foreend--no metal slide inside. So the pin presses out from inside to secure the rail? Know anyone with a lathe? :) Or try Havlin or Numrich. I posted a pic of 12ga above, refresh to view.
 
Make sure the retaining "ears" inside the hole will hold the replacement pin--there must be a reason the original was lost. Or look on debay for a slide w/rails?
 
Here are 2 additional pics of the forearm. It is all plastic. It’s molded on the inside to hold the rails. It’s somewhat dark in the photo, but if you zoom in you can see it more clearly. The pin inserts from the outside pushing in. To remove the pin you push from the inside to push it out.

Edit: I added another pic with adjusted exposure to see the plastic grooves.

063d76fb3db22dfd9d31b745ceb93b72.jpg

f2a9559b774c7600f3e6b450fc6b3658.jpg


a14edcf63d231447cba9297b1037008d.jpg



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Make sure the retaining "ears" inside the hole will hold the replacement pin--there must be a reason the original was lost. Or look on debay for a slide w/rails?
It looks fine on inside. Either they forgot(?) to put a pin in during assembly or it worked it’s way loose and fell out post assembly. The internal plastic guides and all the other parts pretty much hold it in place fully assembled. It’s just without being pinned it won’t “slide” properly.


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So I emailed Joseph (the contact from these forums) and he sent me a replacement forearm.

I installed it and the forearm is still a little wobbly (I guess that’s just how it is). I tested loading some shells. I think the key is pushing down slightly while pushing into the magazine tube. They seem to load better, but still not a really easy load, like I would have imagined. I’m going to assume it’s just me and my expectations don’t necessarily match reality.


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