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Mossberg MVP Bolt Action Accessories

Artful

Lurker
Well my used one came with a Harris bipod, and I was not happy with the magazine release so found on e-bay a clamp on extension that's on it's way will give a report once installed and tested.
 

Artful

Lurker
Ok, got it in and put it on - the con's - not easy to get put in the right place and I don't like finicky so rounded and thinned one side now seems to work great with the mossberg and two twenty round Old surplus AR mags. Still have some issue with the magazines not being stable - saw the hose clamp option - didn't like that so dremeled the feed ramp and polished and now seems to feed pretty darn good - the test ammo is Aguila and seems the head space is very minimal or the ammo is long going to test Friday with different brand.
 

Bvhawk

Lurker
I installed a Lantac Dragon muzzle break on my Mossberg MVP Patrol 308. The break really tamed the recoil which I’m (my shoulder) is really happy about. I guess because of the shorter barrel the recoil impulse was fairly sharp. The only downside would be the concussion to any shooters nearby.
 

Buffalo Jim

Lurker
After awhile the mags began to move around and if not careful it would not always feed. It wasn't that frequent but was annoying. My son and I visited the range last year with the MVP Patrol and a couple other guns. He had a lot of trouble with feeding issues on the MVP. After that visit I purchased 2 Henry 22s and have spent a lot of fun shooting them and swaping scopes and red dots to compensate for my vision issues and age. Anyway due to this virus lockdown I've spent some time cleaning the garage, basement and my armory. I cleaned the MVP and checked a couple targets I'd shot at the range on previous visits. Accuracy was pretty good and I do enjoy shooting the rifle. I weighed the options and decided to fix the wobbly mag issue. I ordered a mag well from Tromix. I watched a YouTube installation video many times and picked up a new chisel. The mag well only took a couple days for delivery and I installed it today. Thank goodness for the video! And like the video I did drop the little spring. Found it after a frantic search. Checked the fit with the Mossberg and Lancer mags and had very little wobble. As I was writing this I stopped and went back down to my basement workshop and tried one of the Pmags in the new Tromix mag well. It fit a little better than the others! Can't wait to be able to visit the Range. Looks like it will be awhile before they can open.
 
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Hey MVP shooters! I have a question. I recently bought an EGW 0-MOA Picatinny rail for my MVP Predator 5.56mm. I installed it and realized right away that my scope sits about 1/4" higher than it did on my Weaver mounts that came stock on the rifle. Now with that being said, after the fact, I realized that Mossberg sells their own pic rails for the MVP on their website, and the MVP's with factory rails seem to be lower to the gun than the EGW brand which seem to sit high about 1/4". They EGW has their height specs on the website. Would anyone out there happen to know of the EGW rails are higher than the Mossberg brand picatinny rail? My reason for this is, I want to add open sights to my rifle, and I cant have a picatinny rail that blocks my view of open sights. If the EGW is higher than the Mossberg brand, I will have to sell it and get a Mossberg rail. Thanks ahead of time for any info!!
 
Hi, I have just received my MVP LC, but my bundled sling-stud bipod that came with it is rather clumsy and bulky. I am thinking of changing it to MLOK foldable two pcs bipod, any accessories I should install so that I can attach MLOK bipod to it? doing so I can free the stud and put a sling in place. Thanks.
 

zzrguy

Lurker
Anyone find any parts for the 308.
The trigger guard still suck.
I'd like to glass bed the action but with all this plastic what's the use without metal part to lock down on.
 

EvanB

Lurker
Changed out the magwells and the trigger guards on my 3 MVP's. Didnt like the cost either but I like the product. Tromix. Predator in .223, Varmint in .223, and Varmint in .204 Ruger.
 
Hey Flash Thunder85, I see your post is from 2020, so you probably already figured out that the EGW 0-MOA Picatinny rail is the same one Mossberg sells on their webpage for that gun.
I am trying to put one on mine too because I had a problem zeroing my scope with those Weaver rails that come stock on that Rifle. I bore sighted it with a laser but couldn't align the scope with the red dot.
Anyway, I thought adding a one piece Picatinny Rail might fix the problem, but I am having a problem removing those 5/64 Allen Screws that secure the Factory Installed Weaver Rails to the Receiver.
I removed the stock, and sprayed some CLP on the underside of the screws and let it penetrate overnight, then I heated each screw individually with a soldiering gun and was able to get one of the screws to loosen, the threads were clean with No Red or Blue Locktite, so I'm assuming the remaining screws are the same.
I tried more CLP, let it sit overnight again, and used a propane torch on the underside of the screws, but they still won't loosen.
So my question is, did anyone else have a problem removing these very small screws, and if so what did you do to finally remove them?
These are small Allen Screws with only about 6 fine steel, to steel machine threads holding them, and should unscrew with minimal effort...
 

Bobster

Lurker
So my question is, did anyone else have a problem removing these very small screws, and if so what did you do to finally remove them?
These are small Allen Screws with only about 6 fine steel, to steel machine threads holding them, and should unscrew with minimal effort...

I can't answer specifically to your gun, but it is likely those screws may be held in with loctite. Try taking a hair dryer (or heat gun) and heat the area of the receiver next to the screw and see if it helps loosen them up.

BTW, Welcome Aboard! :)
 
I can't answer specifically to your gun, but it is likely those screws may be held in with loctite. Try taking a hair dryer (or heat gun) and heat the area of the receiver next to the screw and see if it helps loosen them up.

BTW, Welcome Aboard! :)
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Here's What I Mentioned before:

I removed the stock, and sprayed some CLP on the underside of the screws and let it penetrate overnight, then I heated each screw individually with a soldiering gun and was able to get one of the screws to loosen, the threads were clean with No Red or Blue Locktite, so I'm assuming the remaining screws are the same.

I tried more CLP, let it sit overnight again, and used a propane torch on the underside of the screws, but they still won't loosen.
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I'm thinking of trying a small hand held impact tool, but the Allen Screw is only 5/64, so to much pressure might snap it off.

Anyway, thanks for responding...
 

John A.

Unconstitutional laws are not laws.
Staff member
Administrator
Global Moderator
Getting them with a soldering iron should melt any loctite if there is any present. Let it get hot as hades. I also like to use those little screwdriver bits rather than allen wrenches. Seems that I can keep from stripping the heads out as easily since I can push down and turn at the same time. And by using them are able to get more torque while turning them too.

I have also found that using kroil and a deep freezer sometimes works too.

I understand why companies use loctite, but I wish that they didn't. Guns vibrate and the companies don't want a reputation of their guns falling apart in a few years. But, most of use are more than capable of maintaining our weapons.

Bushmaster used to even use loctite on their castle nuts/buffer tubes once upon a time.

On another note, welcome to the forum. We're glad you joined. I'm hoping that you can get the MVP lined out to your liking.
 

Bobster

Lurker
I tried more CLP, let it sit overnight again, and used a propane torch on the underside of the screws, but they still won't loosen.

I think you are on the right track... Be patient and keep trying with the heat which may help expand the screw hole. Besides the loctite (or not), the threads may be slightly distorted from factory over-tightening. Try tightening slightly to see if it budges at all. Whatever you do, do NOT strip the screw head out or you will make a lot more work. :(
 
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