Mossberg SA20 Break In

[lance4glas]

Looking for information on what is the proper load data to properly break in a new SA 20 in order to be able to cycle 7/8 and 1 oz loads.

I am looking for specific information regards shot weight and velocity to perform the above.

I purchased 75 rounds of #7 3/4 oz. steel shot with a 1325 fps velocity by mistake and I am wondering if these would suffice as ' heavy loads ' as a proper break in .

Thanks in advance, Ed

 

[Rodburner]

I’ve never owned a semi auto shotgun, so I can offer no help, but I’ve never heard of breaking in a new gun before. Disassemble, clean and lube, sure, but not subjecting the weapon to hot loads to start, or working my way up to hot loads. The first rounds through my 9 mm were +p and I was the tool getting the break in. Lol never again. And it was the same with my Shockwave. I just stuffed it with whatever shells were available when I bought it, and just recently found that they are for all intents, magnums, despite the 2-3/4” length. I only popped off a couple to know I screwed up, but the gun didn’t know they were hot. It’s mini’s all day now, which won’t help your situation . Good luck with your inquiry. With the current state of ammo available, my guess is that new guns are gonna get fed anything and everything because it’s all there is..

 

[lance4glas]

I’ve never owned a semi auto shotgun, so I can offer no help, but I’ve never heard of breaking in a new gun before. Disassemble, clean and lube, sure, but not subjecting the weapon to hot loads to start, or working my way up to hot loads. The first rounds through my 9 mm were +p and I was the tool getting the break in. Lol never again. And it was the same with my Shockwave. I just stuffed it with whatever shells were available when I bought it, and just recently found that they are for all intents, magnums, despite the 2-3/4” length. I only popped off a couple to know I screwed up, but the gun didn’t know they were hot. It’s mini’s all day now, which won’t help your situation . Good luck with your inquiry. With the current state of ammo available, my guess is that new guns are gonna get fed anything and everything because it’s all there is..

Thank you for the reply, I reload my own spent brass / hulls so the availability of viable ammo is a non issue in my particular case.

What I was seeking was ' heavy load ' data so I could effectively break in the ' action spring ' in order to accelerate the time frame to be able to properly cycle 3/4 oz loads efficiently without Failure to Eject / Failure to Feed issues.

 

[Bobster]

I don't "break" my guns in, I EASE them in. New or used, they get taken apart before firing and sharp edges on stampings are smoothed with a file or deburr tool. Don't touch edges of things like sear, disconnector, extractor, etc. that are supposed to be sharp.

I don't recall having an issue with loads with my Turkey Thug. I was using blue box Federal "Target" loads that cycled well and were available at WM. I don't have any load data handy. I have a S-load of other ammo I'm going to try the next time I bring it to the range to assure functionality.

If you wanted a "heavy" load, I suppose ANY 3" round will be more powerful than a 2-3/4" 20ga round...

BTW, Welcome Aboard! Search my handle and "SA-20" and you should find my posts on the gun...

 

[lance4glas]

If you wanted a "heavy" load, I suppose ANY 3" round will be more powerful than a 2-3/4" 20ga round...

BTW, Welcome Aboard! Search my handle and "SA-20" and you should find my posts on the gun...

A while back, pre Covid, I purchased 200 3" Fiocchi primed hulls from BPI.

According to the Lyman 5th Shotshell Handbook - they list 1 oz. 1 1/8 oz and 1 1/4 loads for this hull using Long Shot powder, with a Fed 20S1 wad. I only have to locate the wads or an acceptable substitute as I have everything else.

I surmise by what I have been reading here and elsewhere, I should load the 200 hulls with the 1 1/4 oz lead shot, putting the hulls to good use and hopefully achieve the intended results I am looking for.

While perusing this forum I did notice that you had numerous contributions to questions asked and your answers were clear, precise and informational.

Thank you for your informative reply as you are quite knowledgeable and more importantly, willing to share your knowledge with others.

Wishing you and yours a Healthy, Wealthy and Stealthy New Year !

 

[John A.]

1325 fps would be considered heavy loads, or "high brass".

Anything below ~1225 or 1250 fps is what I consider to be low brass, or handicap loads. Anything faster, high brass.

ballisticproducts or precisionreloading may have the wad you're looking for. Pretty sure that Downrange manufacturing makes close copies of the wad you're looking for.

You can also find wads at brownells and midwayusa regularly too.

 

[lance4glas]

1325 fps would be considered heavy loads, or "high brass".

Anything below ~1225 or 1250 fps is what I consider to be low brass, or handicap loads. Anything faster, high brass.

OK, kindly correct me if I am wrong -

For a ' heavy break in ' load I should be using Longshot 24.0 grs , FIO 616 primer , One Win WAA20 wad w/1 oz lead @ 1367 fps, 10,800 psi instead of Longshot 17.0 grs, FIO 616 primer, One Fed 20S1 wad ( unavailable ) w/ 1 1/4 oz lead @ 1100 fps, 10,300 psi ?

The above load data is from Lyman #5 page 191.

I was under the assumption that by " heavy load " that meant a heavy weight charge and not a " heavy powder charge ".

The 1oz load @ 1367 fps would be fine with me - IF - it will properly break in the action spring so I can feed this gun a steady diet of 3/4 - 7/8 oz loads in the future, as my wife will be shooting this gun after the break in, and will be used primarily for clay pigeons in the 1200 +/- fps range.

Edited :

So in essence, the 75 rounds of #7 steel shot Win Super X loads that I purchased by mistake with a velocity of 1325 fps - would suffice as a " break in " load , therefore, I can burn these up and reload them with lighter loads of lead. Which would kill 2 birds with 1 stone !

 

[John A.]

I've never done a break in with any load that I wouldn't shoot any other time.

I have never purchased ammo specifically to "break a gun in".

I think why some companies recommend it, is the hotter loads, will generally cycle the gun without a failure easier, and will help smooth out the action. For that matter, you could essentially do the same thing by just pulling the charging handle back about 150 times with nothing in the gun. At least that should make sure the contact surfaces are not rough or gritty or have any burrs on them.

Yes, you could use the superx cheap shells. Though, I'm not really a fan of those, so if you have any failures with them, just know that odds are, it's ammo related rather than gun related. But, there's no reason you couldn't blow through them. The whole point is to shoot the gun a bunch of times and to just make sure it's gonna work.

 

[lance4glas]

Yes, you could use the superx cheap shells. Though, I'm not really a fan of those, so if you have any failures with them, just know that odds are, it's ammo related rather than gun related. But, there's no reason you couldn't blow through them. The whole point is to shoot the gun a bunch of times and to just make sure it's gonna work.

I immensely appreciate your input , you just saved me a whole lot of unnecessary and useless grief and aggravation with what I thought was a " heavy load "

The Win Super X steel loads were purchased by mistake - but - in this particular instance I believe they will serve my purpose.

Thank you again for your candid input !