• Mossberg Owners is in the process of upgrading the software. Please bear with us while we transition to the new look and new upgraded software.

The Start of Something Good? Glock 19 Deadpool Slide and Barrels...

Bobster

.30-06
The Start of Something Good? Glock 19 Deadpool Slide and Barrels...

Picked these up locally for $250 last Saturday. I found them on a "local" guntrader website. I limit my search to 20 miles and guy was just around the corner and I was the first lucky contestant. :) He was firm on the price as he should be for factory parts. He updated his pistol to compensated slide and barrel. His frame and slide are Gen 4 G19. Pics are sellers and his gun before and after... I didn't make the connection with Deadpool and asked him if he liked Mexican food... :D Those are older Trijicons at about 50% left. I promptly sold the spare barrel on debay for $133.33 BIN shipped and will probably clear about $110 after fees. So the slide and matching barrel now stand me $140. :D

chimislide.jpg IMG_5477.jpg imagejpeg_0.jpg

A little research and a little more money and I've got a FDE PF940C 80% frame, US-made/OEM parts kit and US-made/OEM slide parts kit on the way from California where ironically, I don't think 80% frames are on the "approved" list nor "legal" (unless serialized?)... :rolleyes: $203 to my door which I suppose is not bad even though bare 80% frames were going for $60-$70 on sale before the panic hit a year and a half ago. :(

pf80ckit.jpg slidepartskit.jpg 1030675172.jpg

A minor issue is that is that PF940C takes Gen 3 Glock parts and the Gen 3 and Gen 4 slides ARE different. Barrels are interchangeable as are the most of the parts except the recoil spring... To use a Gen 4 slide/recoil spring/rod in a Gen 3, the spring channel needs to be enlarged but the more simple solution is to use an adapter bushing (ordered, $10 from debay) with a Gen 3 spring/SS rod which happen to be included in the kit I ordered. As the pic shows, the Gen 3 spring and spring channel in the frame are narrower. The 2-stage spring was incorporated into the Gen 4 to solve a frame cracking issue with the Gen 3 and earlier when used with .40S&W.

glock17-gen3-gen4-026.jpg glock17-gen3-gen4-005.jpg glock17-gen3-gen4-024.jpg bushing.jpg

The main quandary I face is that the bottom of the Gen 4 slide is wider than the dust cover of the Gen 3 and PF940C frames so some relieving will have to be done. There are videos on gootoob showing it done with pistol working perfectly afterwards.

I'm tempted to just sell the Deadpool slide and barrel on debay. I could probably get a quick and easy $400, maybe more if I include the sights. After profit, then after buying an aftermarket slide and barrel for under $200 shipped, that would put my cost on a complete (w/o mag) PF940C at $150! :D What do you'all think I should do? I should note that the "CHIMICHANGA"s on the slide are ETCHED in, so no easy re-cerakoting... :(

PS: this LINK is where I got my parts, US Patriot Armory in Apple Valley, CA.

PPS: even if you bought the parts kits and aftermarket barrel and slide without your own parts, you'd be paying under $400 for a PF940C 80% Glock 19 clone... :)
 
Last edited:
I have no advice to offer you, my friend. I have only shot factory basic stock GLOCK guns and I never have gotten around to futzing with them, as fun as that sounds. :)
 
I have no advice to offer you, my friend. I have only shot factory basic stock GLOCK guns and I never have gotten around to futzing with them, as fun as that sounds. :)

But your sig line says "GLOCK Certified Armorer"? What gives? ;)
 
Just a tease for now... ;) I hope to get to the range this weekend for testing. I'll update with build pics once I get around to editing them. The color looks weird because of the camera and lighting. Yes, the slide and frame colors do not match perfectly--the frame has more of a red/brown tint to it. The frame hardware kit I received with the frame had all the "goodies" a growing boy could want: extended slide release, extended take-down latch, smooth trigger face and extended mag release. I'm not a fan of extended mag releases for carry guns but I haven't decided which role this gun is going to play--have to see how it does at the range. I'm not sure if the connector is "lighter"--I have yet to check the trigger pull. The slide parts kit came with a SS guide rod and yes, that is a threaded barrel! :D I swapped the Trijicon tritium sights over from the Deadpool slide with a $20 3D-printed tool off debay. That is a MagPul magazine of which I have several.

p80done.jpg
 
Just a tease for now... ;) I hope to get to the range this weekend for testing. I'll update with build pics once I get around to editing them. The color looks weird because of the camera and lighting. Yes, the slide and frame colors do not match perfectly--the frame has more of a red/brown tint to it. The frame hardware kit I received with the frame had all the "goodies" a growing boy could want: extended slide release, extended take-down latch, smooth trigger face and extended mag release. I'm not a fan of extended mag releases for carry guns but I haven't decided which role this gun is going to play--have to see how it does at the range. I'm not sure if the connector is "lighter"--I have yet to check the trigger pull. The slide parts kit came with a SS guide rod and yes, that is a threaded barrel! :D I swapped the Trijicon tritium sights over from the Deadpool slide with a $20 3D-printed tool off debay. That is a MagPul magazine of which I have several.

View attachment 26113
Like that 2 tone grey !!
 
Like that 2 tone grey !!

Sorry to disappoint but it is FDE. ;) Or are you viewing on a black and white monitor? :D Camera and lighting made it look weird... :( The pic below looks better but yes, the FDE is a little mis-matched.

Took my dot and her BF to the range Sunday. Put about 100 rounds through it with the only issue being my dot limp-wristed a couple times, keeping it from fully going into battery but quickly remedied by a bump forward on the back of the slide with her palm. The slide to barrel lockup is still a little tight probably due to the cerakote... Accuracy was good and I shot a few very tight groups.

Those are the guns I brought and my dot's BF brought HIS Heritage RR and Marlin 60 as well as plenty of ammo... :)

rangeguns.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sorry to disappoint but it is FDE. ;) Or are you viewing on a black and white monitor? :D Camera and lighting made it look weird... :( The pic below looks better but yes, the FDE is a little mis-matched.

Took my dot and her BF to the range Sunday. Put about 100 rounds through it with the only issue being my dot limp-wristed a couple times, keeping it from fully going into battery but quickly remedied by a bump forward on the back of the slide with her palm. The slide to barrel lockup is still a little tight probably due to the cerakote... Accuracy was good and I shot a few very tight groups.

Those are the guns I brought and my dot's BF brought HIS Heritage RR and Marlin 60 as well as plenty of ammo... :)

View attachment 26142
Nope in color, in the first pic is looks grey to me, in the second pic a copper color with a slight color difference. And my eyes have a few miles on them sooooo.
 
UPDATE: Since my last post I have acquired a few more P80 frames/kits and a Freedom Wolf 80% kit that takes Gen4 slides (like the Deadpool slide). They have all required a bit of troubleshooting but all are now bench-test functioning fine. The real test will be at the range and I have not had a chance to go lately. :(

I can confidently say that you can NOT build one of these in 30min like Bidet claims. In a nutshell, to build an 80% frame you need to accurately drill some holes and fit and install slide rails and remove some plastic with files or Dremel tool. There may be a little modification/troubleshooting here and there to get them to assemble properly and function reliably. And there is a small tool investment required to do it correctly. I have a 3D-printed Glock-only sight tool ($20) and pin block ($12) as well as an OEM Glock pin tool ($8) and OEM test "half" plate ($8) for inspecting trigger function. If done right, you should not need a hammer to disassemble/reassemble a Glock--the pins should just push in or out with the Glock tool and/or pin punch. I also have a set of "generic" Glock tools including a pin tool modified to ease slide assembly, a mag disassembly tool and front sight nut driver. Most of these gun kits run in the $300-$350 range with aftermarket slide/barrel, without magazine. To put it into perspective, you could get a basic PSA serialized "Dagger" Glock-clone for about $300-$350. They had a sale last week for a model with tall sights, threaded barrel and slide cut-out WITH an optic for a bit over $400! :)

The FDE PF940C (G19/23 "compact" size) above got a set of Ebay black metal sights ($20) for now and the night-sights went back on the Deadpool slide. The slide on this gun was used for troubleshooting a black "23" (.40S&W) PF940C frame. A set of plastic aftermarket sights ($14) were absolute garbage and the company wouldn't take them back--not a good way to keep a customer... :rolleyes:

The Freedom Wolf came with a Lone Wolf frame parts kit but required an OEM trigger group to work properly. A common theme with a lot of these guns is to use OEM parts to avoid headaches. This gun takes a thinner Gen4/Gen5 trigger block out of stock everywhere so I had to use the Lone Wolf supplied block with OEM parts. The LW block has a little fore/aft movement that probably shouldn't affect function but I'm not satisfied with the LW frame or potential reliability down the road. :(

I got a FDE PF940SC (G26/27 "sub-compact" size) frame/parts kit that I was able to build with P80 parts but had to remove some material from the barrel ramp of the front rail assembly so the gun would come out of battery with the OEM slide from my G26. I also had to install an OEM disconnector to get the trigger to function normally. An aftermarket FDE cerakoted slide/barrel are about $180 from a "local" machine shop when I am ready to complete it.

I also built a black PF940C frame into a "23" (.40 compact) by using a Patmos "Judah" slide kit. The first slide had to be warranteed because the firing pin hole was not drilled concentric to the striker/firing pin assembly and the Recoil Spring Assy was binding in the frame. The company that sold it to me warranteed the kit with a new slide and RSA. I had to get an aftermarket magazine ($15 from ETS) and a .40-9mm barrel ($60) while I was at it. I took a 9mm ejector and squeezed it straight in a vice to get a .40 profile ejector (because the case is larger in diameter). This is a case of building a gun because I had a bunch of ammo for it... ;)

I have a FDE PF 940V2 (G17/22 "full" size) sitting at 80% in the box still. I plan on making a long-slide target gun (G34) out of this one once I gather a little more slush money to buy a slide/barrel (probably be $300+ for that).

The pics show how to release the striker assy if there is a trigger issue. That is one of the benefits of the half-plate. The plate is really only for troubleshooting and not meant to stay on the gun. Also shows some bling I got in a kit (keychain, Glock tool and another half-plate. You would put the Glock tool in the back of the gun and press down on the cruciform as shown. This will pull allow the striker to move forward and allow slide removal.

Feel free to comment with any questions. Whether or not Bidets "order" to eliminate un-serialized frames results in compliance remains to be seen. I believe the date is in August so if you are looking to build a gun you should probably get a "kit" while you still can...

orangeplate1.jpg orangeplate2.jpg presshere.jpg
 
I used to love working on my Glocks while I was allowed to keep them.... I had a Glock 21 that i bought new, and still had the "New York" trigger.. first thing I did was replace that with a competition trigger for use in IPSC Standard class... My other Glock was a 17, previously owned by a top practical shooter.. that had an "Austracomp" fitted so I had to use that in Modified class.
 
Bravo and much respect for making your own !!!
 
Back
Top