395 k

[hock]

I got a 395 kb that I would like to make it into a project deer gun and was wondering if it can be taped and drilled for a scope mount. It looks to me as there isn't enough room infront or behind the bolt to be drilled, but I do not know how much room they need. If anyone has any experience with this gun I would greatly appreciate any info? And is it taped and drilled or drilled and taped???

 

[Sn3aKyGuY]

As long as there is room for a couple of 1 1/2" or 2" weaver rails, any competent gunsmith worth his salt should be able to set you up with a solution.

 

[hock]

Here is a pict of the bolt area if this gives an idea of the space available???

 

[John A.]

I don't know anything about that particular gun, but the appropriate method of threading a screw hole is to drill the slightly undersized hole, and then using the tap to thread it.

Here is a very chart that can be very useful.

http://www.stanford.edu/~jwodin/holes.html

 

[hock]

Im sorry I was not clear on what my concerns were. I know the thickness will handle a drilling, the question is will the space marked in the photo be long enough to install the weaver mounts? Behind the bolt should not be a problem but in front of the bolt looks narrow and I would think they would or should put two screws in that mount to prevent a rotation of the mount and it looks narrow

 

[hock]

This is the first pict of my project with no modifications. Since then I have already shortened it by about three inches, and have a black synthetic stock that Im going to order, and drill and tapping for a scope mount as soon as I get the stock. The gun has no use so its now being converted into a deer killer. With a 3 inch shell this thing will knock me and a deer down!

 

[hock]

I have finally found some time to work on my 395. I shortened the barrel by about 3-4 inches taking off the c lect choke at the end. I Did some home bluing on it and replaced the stock. I will be bluing the entire thing once I have it drilled and taped for a scope and the front sight, but Im trying to find a more reasonable price for the drilling and tapping so far the best price I got in my area is $25- $30 a hole, right now im talking $125-$150 before mounts and scope.

 

[Sn3aKyGuY]

Thanks for the update. That's not a bad price, but you could do it for the price of a tap and die set if you were so ibclined.

 

[hock]

I would give it a try but from everything Ive read they talk about the possibility of taps breaking. If that happens and I go to a smith to have it removed they will certainly be smiling when I walk out. Any suggestions with the drilling and tapping process would be appreciated?

 

[Sn3aKyGuY]

Just like good bbq, low and slow. Low torque setting on the drill (if it's adjustable) and take it slow. With the tapping, same deal, just make slow deliberate turns. If you have some spare metal laying around you could try it on that first to see if you feel comfortable doing it on your gun.

Hey, if all else fails just duct tape it!

 

[ripjack13]

It's drill and tap. the only time you want to use the drill is when you drilling a hole. not for the actual tapping. that is how the taps break and the gunsmith makes money.

after you have the proper size hole for the tap, (no drill...only by hand -->)twist it by the handle gently until it stops itself inside the hole, then back it out a 1/4 turn, then go forward 1/2 turn, then back out a 1/4 turn, use tap oil on every twist forward. it will get a little messy, so do it on a thick rag and don't worry about using to much oil, you want it wet, but not overflowing.... repeat that process until you have tapped through the hole. also while twisting out the 1/4 turns take a small brush and remove any shavings that come out. after you have completely tapped the hole, twist the tap through completely and back out then blow air through the hole with a compressor to remove any chips.

careful of splattering oil where the wife will clearly see that you have not taken care of splattering oil on the curtains and ream you a new hole, yet not where you expected it to be....true story.

 

[John A.]

Drill press makes it easy but maybe not how you think.

First, mark where you want the hole

next, drill the hole to the correct depth you need

finally, insert a live center in the press chuck and tighten it, but you don't turn the press on. you simply use the chuck and press for center and stabililty while you turn the tap wrench by hand, frequently reversing directions to clear the metal chips.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRv6UXpVwrE[/youtube]

 

[hock]

Gentlemen thanks go out to everyone, I may just give it a shot on my neighbors drill press this weekend I will post how it goes. This is my last weekend to give this a shot for a month because the following weekend opens turkey here in Jersey and the following weekend opens a month of turkey in new york. Good luck to anyone that participates in the fat bird season.

 

[ripjack13]

Thanks. Keep us updated here so we can help you through the process if you get stuck...

 

[John A.]

I only have one last tip.

Use (or get) a small level that will cover both places on the receiver that you are going to drill/tap to ensure that the receiver is as level as possible before you drill the holes for the rings.

You'll also want the holes centered on top of the receiver too for obvious reasons so your scope will be as centered as possible over the barrel so it will be aligned with the bore.

There is a couple of reasons for making sure that it's not only straight, but it's level too.

#1 so when the screws are installed, the heads will be flush with the parts and will evenly distribute the load (for structural reasons).

#2 that is the biggest reason that taps break is because they get in a bind.

Taps are made out of very hard, but brittle metal. If you do happen to break a tap, a punch and hammer may be able to bust the tap. But that is a long tedious process. The best way is to not break a tap Gently turning the tap by hand while maintaining a gentle downward pressure on the press handle, and frequently backing it out clearing the chips is the best way to thread a hole.

 

[ripjack13]

Great points John. I forgot to mention the centering of it....kudos.

 

[John A.]

No worries ripjack. We're all just trying to give the guy a crash course to make it as easy as we can for him and is a group effort.

This is where I always add the disclaimer that if he doesn't think he can do it, he probably shouldn't. But it's really not hard as long as he does it right.

Right drill bit and correct sized bottom tap for the machine screws he is going to use, occasional lube, everything straight and level, patience, a little nerve. No problem.

 

[hock]

Well Ive drilled and tapped the 395 myself, three through holes and two blind. Everything went well until I went back to put a couple more threads in one of the blind holes AND SNAP!! Luckily I had a small piece of tap I could get my center punch on. I moved the tap about 1/16 and then it just crumbled and I got the scope mounts on. Im going upstate this weekend to fire a few 3 inch shells using a string and a few sand bags to make sure it doesnt come apart in my hands this deer season. As soon as the scope comes in I will install it and post a few picts.

 

[ripjack13]

Great! Glad to hear that...well not the crumblin part..but you know.

Looking forward to pix!!! Good luck & happy huntin!!

 

[hock]

I put a bushnell banner 1.5-4.5 on it, set it up with my laser shell, and it took 2 shells to get it dead on at 50. Basically I gave a useless gun a second life as a new deer slayer! I just photographed it last night with my cell and will be sure to do a better photo shortly.
Thanks guys for any of the drill and tap info!