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Annealing

dieselmudder

.30-06
Elite Member
"Philanthropist"
Is it really something i should be concerned with at the moment? Should i focus more on the actual reloading process more? I have an abundance of handgun, .223, and .308 cases, which i plan to reload for but the one i want to start with is .22-250 and i have a limited supply of those. so i would like to make them last. the few plaqces i looked at online don't have unprimed cases in stock, and factory ammo is limited.
 
Is it really something i should be concerned with at the moment? Should i focus more on the actual reloading process more? I have an abundance of handgun, .223, and .308 cases, which i plan to reload for but the one i want to start with is .22-250 and i have a limited supply of those. so i would like to make them last. the few plaqces i looked at online don't have unprimed cases in stock, and factory ammo is limited.


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Is it really something i should be concerned with at the moment? Should i focus more on the actual reloading process more?
no and yes
I've never done it to a piece of brass new or used, don't know anyone who has. All the brass I reload over and over and over is all from factory loaded ammo so if its a round that needs it then its been done.
If I was buying new brass I planned to shoot till unloadable like 556 or something that gets shot a lot I might consider it
Now that I think about it the only new brass I have ever bought has been 10mm, the rest was from people who don't reload, rock pit pick ups, and just scavenging in general
 
Okay thanks Oli, I was under the influence that the reloading and firing process would harden the brass, similar to work hardening of steel. And that annealing would help keep it softer and allow it to be formed more times.
 
Great question.

I've never done it. Now if I had but a very few cases for which to handload it would be something I would probably do.
 
Problem is, you can do the annealing wrong and cause issues. I bought some reloaded .223 ammo from a large company. They had annealed the brass as part of the reloading process. Most of the ammo I had did fine, but then the second batch of 1000 had issues. 1st 1000 rounds, I had one case break in half right at the base of the annealing. Thought it was fluke, and moved on. 2nd batch of 1000, is when it really showed up. 1st box from that batch, I opened and fire 16 rounds out of the 50 in the box. Had 6 rounds out of that box broke in half during firing right at the base of the annealing. After speaking to some friends in the industry, and returning all of the ammo I had from the company, I found out that the issue was that the either annealed the cases for to long, or they annealed at to high of a temp which weakened the cases. The last case that was stuck, was in there so bad I had to jam a chamber brush into it and then use a rod from the muzzle end and tap it with a hammer to get it out.

Long story short, don't mess with it unless you know what you are doing with annealing. It's to soften the neck after forming it, but you can soften it to much if you aren't precise about it.
 
Okay thanks Oli, I was under the influence that the reloading and firing process would harden the brass, similar to work hardening of steel. And that annealing would help keep it softer and allow it to be formed more times.

it is true.....but that is the benefit to a reloader, and folks who reload for precision .....I mean serious BR precision people do it for consistency.
The grouping difference for an average to good shooter even is negligible and the true life added to brass is said to be a couple reloads, and if its once fired brass and its been done its done.....molecularly. Not sure if it should be done multiple times on the same piece but I would bet no

The reason you see it in military surplus, who couldn't care less if their spent brass gets reloaded, and high pressure bottleneck rifle rounds is because it makes brass more resilient when the round is fired thus making it safer.

Its like insurance for a proper chamber seal expansion and the ability to relax the moment the case needs to be extracted , even if ammo has been miss treated.

That however has its limits. I found a box of 556 ammo I lost like 15 years ago, outside. The box was just pulp fiber laying under 20 rounds of black brass Federal 556. I fired them through my AR and they all shot and extracted however cases were all cracked in 4 opposing places clean through the neck, never an indication of a problem......even hit what I was shooting at
 
Oli touched on an interesting topic. You'll see annealing on military brass quite often but almost never on factory ammo for civilian/commercial sale. But all that commercial stuff was also annealed. The bluing was just polished off because consumers don't like it because it looks old and dirty.

I know of very few bottlneck rifle cartridge reloaders who futz with the whole process. I know of ZERO handgunners who do it.
 
Okay, good to know. As of now I've only got about 45 cases for 22-250. They will only be shot from one rifle, so I intend to neck size only. Whats a realistic number of times I may be able to reload the cases? They're Winchester and Remington cases.
 
Okay, good to know. As of now I've only got about 45 cases for 22-250. They will only be shot from one rifle, so I intend to neck size only. Whats a realistic number of times I may be able to reload the cases? They're Winchester and Remington cases.

Probably 7-10 or even more if you aren't absolutely hot-rodding them with some absurd load. (Hell, I have gotten five reloads on lots of decent 5.56mm brass thru an autoloader and full-length resizing with no annealing step) Sometimes when you are 'neck sizing only' the primer pocket will get loose before the case neck gives. If your necks are round you might even look at skipping having the stem in the die and just bumping the shoulder back a couple thousandths. Sounds like you have really done some homework on the process!
 
I'm trying to. I have no intention of going real hot with the loads. Not even trying to get bench rest accuracy. Just want to load reliable, consistent ammunition. Came across some annealing processes, figured I would ask around and see what the general consesus is.
 
Everyone is right, you don't need to anneal the cases to reload them. You will be surprised how many times you can reload them. The one thing that will really shorten the life of a case, especially hand gun, is putting too much bell on the case to seat a new bullet. The belling and roll crimping weakens the mouth of the case and it will split. Just bell the case enough to get a bullet in and you'll be ok.

Even when I make 25-06 and 338-06 cases from 30-06 cases, I don't anneal the brass and I don't have any problems loading them numerous times.
 
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