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Dehorning a new 500

K

Kungfunerd

.410
I just got a 500 20" that has lots of rough edges...
Sides of the Forearm and Buttpad have molding marks (big ones).
My left thumb got cut up from doing lots of reps of Weak Hand loading drills, edges of swivels etc...

I'm guessing I could use super fine sandpaper, buffing wheel Dremel (carefully!)
But wanted some tips from people that have done it before.

Thanks,
KF
 
never even heard of doing it to anything other than a handgun....let us know how it works out.
 
I would avoide using a dremel tool. Not only can they remove alot of the plastic/rubber very quickly, but because of its speed will generate alot of heat that could cause some plastic to melt. I would use an xacto knife and then go over it with fine sand paper.
 
Oh...thanks for the Exacto tip.
Somehow I don't think I would have thought of that and I have like 10 of them...
The Mold marks on the sides of the Forearm are pretty big.
It was wearing a hole in one of my fingers,
 
I noticed that the receiver edges on the bottom are sharp too when reloading. I'm just afraid to sand it myself and the fact of having to reparkerize that area.
 
If you just take down the offending edges and just where you handle them, the finish isn't a big deal (to me).
I did a good bit of smoothing on my 1911 but only in a couple of places.
I just touched up with a Blueing pen.
On my 1911 .22 I used Aluminum Touchup. Looks fine but FEELS and FUNCTIONS better ( more important!).

If you keep your gun clean, protected and wiped down the finish won't matter so much.
 
Well, I was practicing my reloads and I cut the back of my thumb on the edge of the loading port. Five seconds later I had the file out! Feels so much better.
 
Grasshopper (Kungfunerd),
Lawman is right. The Dremmel can just take off on its own and grind away stuff like crazy and just one little jump can destroy a beautiful finish. And the heat issue he talked about is VERY real.

A lot of times I wrap a little sand paper (actually emory cloth) around a pencil and use that so it doesn't flex so much and sand stuff I don't want it to. Like when you polish the feed ramp and throat on a pistol - you just want to take it down to a smooth shiney layer overall and not really take off any metal - a pencil wrapped in fine emory cloth is perfect for that.

I would try the same trick on the furniture you're talking about (after using an xacto to trim off the big stuff)
 
To any one trying this....

The Exacto will tend to gouge into the plastic if you try to cut it.
Shaving/scraping very slowly is best.

For sanding, try finer grits first as they won't mark up the surface as much.
Find the Grit that does just enough and go slow.

RE: The Dremel
Yeah....I have lots of Dremel experience.
I only grind with that in extreme cases (like bobbing a Hammer).
The Buffing Wheel can do damage but done well, it gets NICE
 
You won't be able to see much if I get it touched up well.

I just did three grits of sandpaper using small squares on my fingertips.
60, 100 and 220 grit.
I completely beveled the edges and it feels MUCH better.
They should manufacture it that way.
 
Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black will darken the bare metal on the Receiver after sanding but doesn't match at all.
Paint will be a better Touchup if you care.
 
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