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Finally found a parkerized 18.5" barrel. Rust removal?

Discussion in 'Mossberg 500 Pump Action' started by JayC, Jul 1, 2016.

  1. JayC

    JayC .270 WIN

    Messages:
    362
    Well, after a long time searching, I finally found my hen's tooth. :D A long time ago, shortly after joining the forums, I began searching for a parkerized 18.5" barrel for my 500. My 500 is unique in that it was a bundle that came with parkerized barrels and mag tube. I looked all over for a parked 18.5" barrel. eBay rarely had any. I bid on one, but got bid sniped at the end. I was so mad. I was frustrated, and likened trying to find a parkerized 18.5" barrel to trying to find hen's teeth. I think I even mentioned it in an old post here. I even called Mossberg and the lady that answered the phone said they don't make any parkerized 18.5" barrels. When I gave her my serial number, and told her about the ones I saw on eBay, she said that they do make parkerized 18.5" barrels every so often for specialized store packages.

    A week ago I came across an eBay Buy It Now auction for a parkerized 18.5" barrel. The seller had nine of them, so I grabbed one. I couldn't believe I finally grabbed one! It was advertised as NOS, so I thought that was even better. It came yesterday and I was a little surprised. It came in a plastic bag wrapped in brown paper. The plastic bag had a sticker on it with some packaging info. The info looked like it had a date of 05/07. I think it also might have been a police barrel or something, because the label also had a cage number. I have no idea what a cage number is, but it grabbed my attention.

    Anywho, back to why I was surprised. I understand that the barrel had been sitting awhile. It had some light rust all over it. I always thought parkerization was supposed to be more rust resistant than standard bluing. It also looked dried out. I sprayed it liberally with Rem Oil, and that did a really good job of cleaning most of it up. However, it didn't clean up the rust around the lug for the barrel nut.

    This is my question, is there anything I can do to clean it up? I haven't been able to clean it with what I have so far.

    Here's a couple pictures. I know it's nothing special, and it looks like what I posted before, but now everything matches. :D I also threw my heatshield back on because I wanted to see what it looked like now that it all matches. I'm happy to say the search is finally over. I wanted to get some pics outside, but it's currently raining. We desperately need the rain, so I'm not minding it.

    [​IMG]

    The rust on the post isn't really noticeable unless real bright light is on it. It's just if I can do anything to remove it I'd like to. It's like that on all sides of the post.

    [​IMG]
  2. John Hermesmeyer

    John Hermesmeyer .22LR

    Messages:
    17
    No parkerization is not any more rust resistant than blueing but parkerization is porous so you can lube it up and the oils will help protect the gun and stay in the parkerization better
    you can use CLP and a brush to clean up the rust and that should do the job
    nitesite and Rossignol like this.
  3. Rossignol

    Rossignol The Original Sheriff Staff Member Global Moderator Sponsor Moderator

    Messages:
    12,760
    Same here. Oil the heck out of it. Leave it wet.
    nitesite likes this.
  4. JayC

    JayC .270 WIN

    Messages:
    362
    Would CLP work better than Rem Oil? I even tried some PB Blaster that I had sitting in the shed. I put it on then used one of those brass brush things from my cleaning kit to try and scrub it off.
  5. John Hermesmeyer

    John Hermesmeyer .22LR

    Messages:
    17
    I use it and slip 2000 ...it worked in the Corps so yeah
  6. JayC

    JayC .270 WIN

    Messages:
    362
    I've been trying to get rid of that rust around the lug post without any success. The first time I tried, I let the CLP soak on it for about an hour. I then took a brass brush from my cleaning kit and scrubbed it. After that didn't work, I tried again letting it sit on there for a couple hours. Failing that, I even let the CLP soak on it overnight. Is there anything else I can do or is it stuck there?
  7. Rossignol

    Rossignol The Original Sheriff Staff Member Global Moderator Sponsor Moderator

    Messages:
    12,760
    I have a little rust on all mine. I do as you've done and after that just oil and leave it alone. I've never been able to get rid of all of it. I have a couple spots on my 500 Persuader that never go away.

    I'm sure there are ways to deal with it but not without cost. Duracoat or ceracoating would do it but it wouldn't be the parkerized any more.
  8. John Hermesmeyer

    John Hermesmeyer .22LR

    Messages:
    17
    You probably wont get rid of it totally without damaging the finish but id also lube it up with petroleum jelly, wrap it in a bag and drive it around in your car for a few hot days. The Petroleum jelly soaks into the parkerizaton and keeps the metal from rusting. Learned that from a old Gunny back in the day. Of course when I tried it my gun smelled like ....well you know what it smelled like ;-)
  9. nitesite

    nitesite Sheepdog Moderator "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    5,480
    Lug post? Like where the silver solder weld joint meets the barrel? It's going to disappear as you get to regularly oiling and cleaning it, and maybe it will leave a tiny bit of pitting behind but it's all harmless.

    BYW, very nice shotgun you have put together. I approve.
  10. JayC

    JayC .270 WIN

    Messages:
    362
    Thanks guys. I guess I'll just leave it. Yeah, I don't really want to do any ceracoating as that would defeat my purpose of trying to find a matching barrel.

    Thanks! I've got wood furniture, too. I switch it out for the synthetic stuff depending on which way my mood is at the time. It changes often. :D
    nitesite likes this.
  11. Allan DeGroot

    Allan DeGroot Copper BB

    Messages:
    9
    If you have a plastic office garbage pail or a length of 4" PVC pipe capped at one end, you can soak the barrel overnight in store bought White Vinegar
    This will reduce the rust to something that can be removed with a plastic bristle toothbrush.

    I recommend the length of PVC pipe because it will inly require a gallon or two of Vinegar, the pail might require four or five gallons
    and the vinegar is $2-$3gal

    For removing rust Lemon juice also works, as does a product called Bar Keepers Friend (which is Oxalic Acid based), but anything else that is more effective at removing rust could harm the finish.

    Note: these materials are not Necissarily safe to use on Aluminum
  12. texasjarhead

    texasjarhead .410

    Messages:
    32
    For Parkerized items, I like to apply a good coat of lithium grease. The Parkerization soaks it up like a sponge. After a couple of days, wipe the excess off, and it will last for quite a while.

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