Helpful Tips for Pistol Caliber Ammo?

[Frank Castle]

HAHA Well now that is no fun! Do you load 45 for Trex?

nope, but hot 45's would be cool trex ammo. I have never shot a hot reloaded 45 but I bet there are some good loads out there for the ACP round.

Now, when you say "hot" you are speaking of +p correct? Hornady is coming out with a new Critical Duty +p ammo for 2013.

MikeD, I will certainly be shooting a lot more! If I don't feel confident I can hit a target within a certain distance, I will not be carrying it out into public. Maybe in my Vehicle but not into Walmart or a Mall.. I won't put someone else in danger due to my lack of experience!

Above Mention "Recoil Reducing Guide Rod".. All that I have found are Full length.. Can anyone dispute the argument over Full Length or Half Length Guide Rods? Which is better or worse? (Is it caliber specific?

See my post above, you may have missed it.

With the standard length guide rod, there is a potential for the slide spring to get jammed up on itself (note: easier to field strip). The full length guide rod all but eliminates this (may be harder, or require tools to field strip).

I recommend the one above. Best of both worlds. Full length won't let the spring bind, secondary spring allows for easier field stripping with out tools.


Frank

 

[Itsricmo]

Ahh, okay! That makes some sense.. do you happen to remember what brand it is?

 

[Frank Castle]

From my Third Post in this thread, I think you may have missed it some how. It is the one with the picture in it. There is a lot of good info in that post.

The Guide rod is made by EFK Fire Dragon. http://www.efkfiredragon.com It is called a "Dual Action Recoil Spring". The Main Spring I use comes with the kit. It is a very ingenious design. The main spring lets the slide move back till the spent case ejects, then the secondary spring activates from the slide and reduces the recoil as the slide continues back to cock the gun.

Frank

 

[oli700]

From my Third Post in this thread, I think you may have missed it some how. It is the one with the picture in it. There is a lot of good info in that post.

Hmmmmmm picture?......read?......picture?.........read?..........PICTURE…

 

[Itsricmo]

Frank, thank you so much! I totally missed that post!! Great looking gun and thank you for the link!
I saw that EFK on Brownells lastnight in my own investigation.

How easy is it to take down? What extra tools may or are required?

I have considered building my own but I do not know anywhere near enough knowledge of the 1911 to build my own haha.. I wouldn't know where to start.. I will get the RIA and possibly build it up

 

[Frank Castle]

Frank, thank you so much! I totally missed that post!! Great looking gun and thank you for the link!
I saw that EFK on Brownells lastnight in my own investigation.

How easy is it to take down? What extra tools may or are required?

No extra tools needed. Field strips like a stock guide rod model. It is just a little tougher to press the Slide Spring button (you are pushing on two springs, not one) to turn the barrel bushing.

I have considered building my own but I do not know anywhere near enough knowledge of the 1911 to build my own haha.. I wouldn't know where to start.. I will get the RIA and possibly build it up

Frankie was my first build ever, and started with a bare frame. I had no previous knowledge about 1911's at the time. Just started reading (Competition, Casual, and Combat 1911 forums), and ordering parts. I learned by jumping in head first. They are not that complicated (Designed in 1908), if you have an exploded diagram, it was pretty self explanitory.

You have a good plan with getting a full gun, then modifying. At leaset you can see how the parts come out to put new ones in. Like I said in the above post, if you plan on modifying, start with a cheaper base model. Once you have the frame, everything else is available to go from mild to wild in any direction you want to take it. Just a quick note, most parts you order will come a little on the fat side (Larger Tollerance) so that you can remove material to get it to fit your gun perfectly.

Frank

 

[John A.]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a 2 piece recoil reducing guide rod, and bushing from Sprinco in my .40 XDt. I also have a slightly reduced weight spring in it.

It made a considerable difference in both handling, and better groups.

I'm not sure if that was mainly due to the factory guide rod being hollow, and no slide bushing or what, but it shot better at any rate.

And they have them for 1911 9/38 super in mind if you look at the link too. They're the 4th item number down from the top.

I could take some detailed pics of my stuff if you need me to if you want comparison to efk. The only EFK stuff I have ever looked at was their threaded 40 to 9mm conversion barrels

http://www.sprinco.com/recoil.html

 

[Itsricmo]

Just a quick note, most parts you order will come a little on the fat side (Larger Tollerance) so that you can remove material to get it to fit your gun perfectly.

Frank

That's interesting! I would have thought that everything would have extreme tolerances and would be almost completely 100% drop in. Good to know so that I don't feel totally stupid when I get my first part in and can't get it too fit haha...


Well I am getting some more useful information about 1911s that's sweet but yet no one has a specific bullet they like? Lame...... Oli, what 10mm do you use to reload?

 

[Frank Castle]

That's interesting! I would have thought that everything would have extreme tolerances and would be almost completely 100% drop in. Good to know so that I don't feel totally stupid when I get my first part in and can't get it too fit haha...

Tollerance is probably the biggest thing with the 1911's. For accuracy you want a very tight tollerance, but you will sacrifice reliability. For reliability, you want loose tollerances. The bad reputation the 1911's got during WW2, and other wars was from their lack of accuracy. The government purposly made them with extremly loose tollerances so they would fire through anything (you could actualy shake them and they would rattle). With this in mind, the manufacturers make them so that the end user can customize the parts to their goals. The hardest part of building my 1911 was keeping the tollerance tight enough to be accurate, but loose enough to be reliable, finding that sweet spot. You can always take more off, but you cant put more back on.

Well I am getting some more useful information about 1911s that's sweet but yet no one has a specific bullet they like? Lame...... Oli, what 10mm do you use to reload?

I don't. I use whatever I can get my hands on for a good price. My 1911 isnt picky and has shot everything I have fed it. Now if I was to shoot cometition, I would find what brand and type worked best in my gun. I think that is the hardest part to answer your question. Like the shotty, each gun will like and dislike ammo specific to the gun. What works well for one, might not work for others.

Frank

 

[Itsricmo]

Like the shotty, each gun will like and dislike ammo specific to the gun. What works well for one, might not work for others.

Frank

Yeah, Roger that! I am just trying to narrow my options down because there are 100s of bullets lol
Between weight and type they get tricky I guess for that part I will just wait till I have the pistol in hand and can shoot it

I am going to switch out grips too, was looking at some VZ Grips