So there are lots of bullet casters who are tired of lubri-sizers and expensive lube sticks and gas checks or using Alox sticky lube.
Polymer coated lead bullets have for years been widely sold to reloaders as a much cheaper alternative to copper jacketed bullets. So it didn't take long for do-it-yourself guys to figure out that poly coating lead bullets can be done at home with our own cast lbullets.
See, I can cast wheel-weight alloy bullets for virtually nothing. Okay, maybe a thousand cost me a few dollars; not counting a lot of scrounging and some investment of molds and furnaces and such. But now I am making bullets for practically nothing. Still each bullet needs lubed, and that can be a pain in the butt. It just isn't "fun".
Powder Coat Paint is just a fine polyester dust applied to metals and then baked, and it turns out that those polymer coated bullets sold commercially were nothing more than a clear powder coat on a bullet. Voila! A great way to shoot lead bullets without any barrel leading, and it can be accomplished at home for an investment of about twenty-thirty dollars!
I am just a noob at this, and there are some REALLY SERIOUS bullet casters who do this with a true passion and a pretty deep wallet, and their results are magnificent. You want cast lead bullets in a certain color? Just ask. There is almost no limit to the rainbow of coatings that take to a lead bullet.
Here's what I did to get started:
I got a bunch of my cast bullets, and a re-used Cool-Whip tub, and a pound of red powder coat paint. Shaken bullets in the tub create sufficient static to make the powder cling to them
and then a ten-dollar thrift shop used toaster oven bakes the coating in about 15-minutes until it is hard.
The bullets are ready for a push-thru sizer, which I can size at about 300~500-per hour. Then we can load 'em and shoot 'em!!! At velocities that I could not normally do with conventional lubed bullets without some barrel leading. Even GLOCK polygonal rifling likes this polymer-coat type of lube!
Before this I was usually using Lee Liquid Alox lube that was easy but took days or weeks to dry sufficiently so I could then reload my ammo. Now, in 30-minutes from start to finish I can coat, bake, cool, size and shove em in the charged case and I am GTG.
Looking down the barrel after shooting these, I might find some unburned powder or soot but that cleans with just one patch. No leading though. I shoot these in .357-Magnum and I can hardly find any deposits in the bore.
Zombie Green? That's my next color I'm ordering. And Gloss Black. That will make them look like evil talon ammo.
These pics were taken of a batch I did using a bottle of powder coat paint that was left open on a shelf for over a year, so some clumping is evident. New/fresh unopened powder coat paint should look a whole lot better!!!!
Polymer coated lead bullets have for years been widely sold to reloaders as a much cheaper alternative to copper jacketed bullets. So it didn't take long for do-it-yourself guys to figure out that poly coating lead bullets can be done at home with our own cast lbullets.
See, I can cast wheel-weight alloy bullets for virtually nothing. Okay, maybe a thousand cost me a few dollars; not counting a lot of scrounging and some investment of molds and furnaces and such. But now I am making bullets for practically nothing. Still each bullet needs lubed, and that can be a pain in the butt. It just isn't "fun".
Powder Coat Paint is just a fine polyester dust applied to metals and then baked, and it turns out that those polymer coated bullets sold commercially were nothing more than a clear powder coat on a bullet. Voila! A great way to shoot lead bullets without any barrel leading, and it can be accomplished at home for an investment of about twenty-thirty dollars!
I am just a noob at this, and there are some REALLY SERIOUS bullet casters who do this with a true passion and a pretty deep wallet, and their results are magnificent. You want cast lead bullets in a certain color? Just ask. There is almost no limit to the rainbow of coatings that take to a lead bullet.
Here's what I did to get started:
I got a bunch of my cast bullets, and a re-used Cool-Whip tub, and a pound of red powder coat paint. Shaken bullets in the tub create sufficient static to make the powder cling to them
and then a ten-dollar thrift shop used toaster oven bakes the coating in about 15-minutes until it is hard.
The bullets are ready for a push-thru sizer, which I can size at about 300~500-per hour. Then we can load 'em and shoot 'em!!! At velocities that I could not normally do with conventional lubed bullets without some barrel leading. Even GLOCK polygonal rifling likes this polymer-coat type of lube!
Before this I was usually using Lee Liquid Alox lube that was easy but took days or weeks to dry sufficiently so I could then reload my ammo. Now, in 30-minutes from start to finish I can coat, bake, cool, size and shove em in the charged case and I am GTG.
Looking down the barrel after shooting these, I might find some unburned powder or soot but that cleans with just one patch. No leading though. I shoot these in .357-Magnum and I can hardly find any deposits in the bore.
Zombie Green? That's my next color I'm ordering. And Gloss Black. That will make them look like evil talon ammo.
These pics were taken of a batch I did using a bottle of powder coat paint that was left open on a shelf for over a year, so some clumping is evident. New/fresh unopened powder coat paint should look a whole lot better!!!!
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A range report of about 50 or 100 rounds fired and pics of barrel and patches after is warranted here! And zombie green might show in the bore better. 
