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I'm making my own CHEAP poly-coated cast bullets with Powder Coat

would you be happier if I said "does the lead still deform as it hits bone causing further tissue damage, yet remaining mostly in tact for the penetration needed to reach the vitals of shit that wants to kill you in the woods" in place of the word "expand" ?.....for which I was hoping to save in typed words but that relied on you knowing what I was meaning, knowing I know that it isn't going to expand in the since of the word we are usually talking about with hollow point bullets.
Sounds like they will work good, I don't want the FMJ effect, or Full Metal Jacket if you prefer.
I'll have to try to do this someday !
 
They expand as if they are traditionally lubricated. I have recovered a number of them that impacted my gongs and they are as flat as straight lead. The big advantages are, no messy lube. If you drop one in the sand no crud clinging to it. No leading at higher velocities. It allows you to run straight wheel weights without the need to alloy your lead with additional antimony, or water drop them for additional hardness. I have put more than 5000 through a Glock 19 and a Glock 23. No leading. I shoot them in my 357, 44 and 480 at max velocities with lighter bullets with no need for expensive alloys. Wheel weights only, no leading. Well I add a little tin to fill out the mold more efficiently but that is the extent of the alloying I do for casting. It is win, win.
 
oli700 said:
would you be happier if I said "does the lead still deform as it hits bone causing further tissue damage, yet remaining mostly in tact for the penetration needed to reach the vitals of shit that wants to kill you in the woods" in place of the word "expand" ?.....for which I was hoping to save in typed words but that relied on you knowing what I was meaning,
Click to expand...

My friend, I made it too plainly worded, I know. But it was to prevent a reader who is just starting out and knows somewhat less than what guys like you know from getting the wrong idea, so that it was over-simplified.

But I enjoyed you having to type more just to bust my chops! Bwaahhaahhaaaaaaa!!!!!!!! :)
 
If you're like me you have your tongue partly stuck out while you furiously type.... douchebag
 
no, I don't do that ......probably because I am a little better than you at everything
 
:p:D:) I guessing that you thought you really zinged me with that one.

Uhhhh...... Okay. :rolleyes:
 
It’s all god man, I realize you don’t know enough words to play this game with me but I got to probe you every now and then


really cool bullets, keep pushing the envelope !
 
I hope you are still around to answer this question, nitesite. I Know Nothing about lead bullet reloading by the way and was intrigued to read that you size after coating. My question is, "Why not size before coating in case the tool abrades some of the coating off"?
Sorry if it is a stupid question.
 
You size after because there is a lot of inconsistency in the coating thickness. When you size Powder coated bullets you will get some that show signs of the coating being rubbed off. There does not seem to be any problem with this however. On another forum where this is a big topic there has been a lot of conversation about the fact that even though it shows sign of rubbing off it does not actually remove the the coating completely. This makes sense because the test to see if your coating and baking has been adequate is to take a hammer and pound one of your completed bullets flat. If it is done properly the coating will not come off. I am pushing 30 caliber bullets consisting of straight wheel weights and no water dropping at up to 2600 fps with absolutely zero leading.
 
Deep1 said:
I am pushing 30 caliber bullets consisting of straight wheel weights and no water dropping at up to 2600 fps with absolutely zero leading.
Click to expand...

Holy Smoke:eek:o_O:)
All jokes aside, thankyou for that very full explanation. I would never have dreamed that cast bullets could go so fast:)
 
Hi there, Terry.

I do the toaster oven at 375-400 degrees for 15 minutes or so.

Dollar General has (in their BBQ grilling aisle) some steel trays that fit my oven like a champ and they cost a dollar. With parchment paper I can keep everything rolling with one in the oven, one cooling and one getting coated bullets placed on it for the next trip into the oven. It really goes quite fast.
 
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