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Reloading .410

John A.

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Something I have always wanted to do was reload for .410.

But cost has always been prohibitive for it for some reason. $100 bucks for a used Mec loader for just loading for .410, isn't going to happen.

So, I remembered a company making a hand loader for it, based on the old LEE loaders from years ago the best that I can tell.

But after finding them online and browsing their website, they're expensive too.

Why on earth does .410 reloading tooling cost so much?

So, the wheels start turning and I start looking around my "scrap pile". As soon as I started thinking about the "scrap pile", I am instantly reminded of my Dad when the thought came to mind.

I would always bug him about going through his "scrap pile" of wood growing up while looking for something to build a bike ramp with, or needing some rough lumber to finish a fort up on the mountain or something, I would ask him if I could go through his scrap pile to find what I was needing to finish my project.

He would always tell me that there is no such thing as scrap anything. It's all just waiting to be turned into something better.

You know what, he was sure right about that.

So, I look around in my shop and find a piece of steel that used to go to the cranking handle of my old 3" cast iron vise that the guts broke out about a year ago that has been sitting in the corner.

410 loader 009.JPG

That looked like a great start for a depriming ram and a primer seater.

And made of stainless steel too.

I know I'll have to turn the sides down just a little to accommodate for when I use it to seat the wad on the powder later, but for now, I was concentrating on the "hard cuts".

I measure a 209 primer to find out how big of a diameter I need it to be. Then I proceed to start turning the stainless steel vise handle down.

After I finished, I made it longer than this cut in the picture and I'll explain why later, but here's the start of it.

This is the side that deprimes the shell.

410 loader 010.JPG

Then I flip the vise handle around and make it so that it fits down inside the shell and seats the new primer into place. This was a little tricky due to the tight constraints of the .410 brass, but turned out well nonetheless.

410 loader 011.JPG

410 loader 012.JPG

The main reason for the recess in the part is so that none of the parts actually contacts the primer portion itself while you are seating the new primer. The last thing I want to do is blow myself up.

Again.

Once the ram arm is complete, I make the base from a large piece of 7075 aluminum rod that I had left over from another project.

On one side, the base is hollowed out deeper than it needs to be so when the old primer is pushed out, there is room for it to fall down out of the way into the base.

410 base 001.JPG

And on the other side, I had to counterbore so the entire brass rim would slide down into the base to help center the hull and the primer together.

Out of an abundance of caution, the bottom of the hole is almost all the way flat across the entire circumference but there is a slightly deeper recess in the center so the actual primer itself doesn't contact the base when you're seating it so I don't inadvertantly light off a primer while trying to press it in.

410 base 002.JPG

Now, the reason that I said I would explain why I made the depriming side of the stainless steel longer was because I made a handle for it to help assist in seating the primers and the wads later.

So, I started thinking about tapping out the old primers and how I could accomplish that if I didn't have a hammer at the cabin or wherever I was at when I was reloading these, so I made the handle so it would have a dual purpose because I wanted it to slide it over the enter stainless steel rod and use it as dead blow hammer to help get the spent primers popped out.

410 handle 004.JPG

And when you're ready to reprime it, just flip it around and use the other end.
410 handle 002.JPG

And when you're ready to put the new wad in:
410 handle 005.JPG

And if a picture is worth a thousand words, a video is probably priceless.

 
Cool project.

Not sure about reloading but the price of 410 ammo is why I still havent bought one. Last time I looked it was about 3 times the cost of 12g or 20g for just birdshot.
 
the price of 410 ammo is why I still havent bought one. Last time I looked it was about 3 times the cost of 12g or 20g for just birdshot.

Sounds like you know WHY I wanted to reload .410. :giggle:

But actually loading .410 won't be bad at all.

Granted there are only a few "main" powders for it, the "Lil'gun" does double for a blackout subsonic powder, so gives me more of a reason to stock that powder.

But the powder and pellet charges are pretty small compared to 12 and 16 gauge especially so the actual "cost" of reloading 410 is pretty minimal.

I know that LTB45 has called the .410 an "expert" gun in the past, but that's what I learned how to hunt on.

Granted I had to learn how to sneak in closer, and "aim better", I feel like the .410 actually helped me be a better hunter more than it "hurt" me.

I'll always have a soft spot in my heart for a good 410. It's also what I taught all 3 of my boys how to hunt with when they got old enough to go with me.

A 7 year old can handle a 410 a whole lot better than they can handle any other shotgun. That's for sure. I don't even consider handing anything larger than a 410 until they get about 10 years old or more (depending on their physical size).
 
Nicely done sir....very cool project.
 
Nice job, John! :thumbsup: Perhaps you could share your measurements in a semi-crude engineering drawing unless you plan on patenting your creation... :)

Could you not use powder and shot from bulk 12ga rounds? o_O Just curious and if only in a pinch...

I've been keeping the "empties" from the limited .410 I've shot. Hoarding comes in all shapes and calibers! ;) The little Rossi .410 single shot (with .22 barrel, also) is painful to shoot without a small slip-on Limbsaver.
 
You could use shot from any other shotgun shell, but not powder.

The 410 is pretty specific because of pressures, though there are 4 or 5 different commercial smokeless powders that work in 410, and you can also use black powder in a pinch.

The 410 uses the same primers as any other shotgun too.

I taught my 2 older boys how to shoot with a rossi 22/410 combo. Mine has the wooden stock on it and it's probably about 16 years old or thereabouts. Haven't been shooting it much since my oldest 2 are grown or about grown.

My youngest prefers the NEF single shot over the rossi and has been really successful shooting and hunting with it in 410 and he has recently graduated up to 20 gauge barrel.

Truth known, he's as good of a shot with a shotgun or most rifles as any man I know and has been for a couple of years now.

I'll sit down later and draw you a sketch if you're wanting to make a loader and send you a PM. I have no interest in patenting the idea. I just wanted something I could use without spending a small fortune on.
 
Thanks meanstreak.

They say "necessity is the mother of invention".

Well, I can load .410 bore if I want to now LOL
 
I love this stuff because I hate to buy anything I can build, and hate to pay others for anything I can do.

I needed to drill some tubing and I don't have a vblock. But with a drill press, a countersink tool, three clamps and a couple of small bars I was able to make one out of wood in about 15 minutes.

It's accurate enough and durable enough for this job and I can toss it when I'm done.

I wanted to make a doubler for some tubing and I didn't have anything the right diameter so I made a little swage to enlarge some tubing that I already had. I had to press it through the tube so I set up this little mini press frame in my vice out of assorted nuts and bolts and washers and some steel bars all of which I just had laying around.
20170429_113901.jpg
Even with an air wrench it is slow, but I need the exercise, it works, and it didn't cost me anything. I'm sure that anybody could set up something like this to size shells or press bullets, or in my case to make other tools.

I used some little sockets as various swages and then the finishing swage I made from an old 3/8 socket wrench extension ground to the right diameter. In the photo I am swaging a piece only 2 inches long, but I did pieces as long as six inches with this setup and I enlarged the tubing by about 0.12" OD in 3 steps.

Because I'm using a screw press instead of hydraulics the swaging is not as smooth and I ran a rod through the finished part to straighten & smooth it out.

I drew the swage through and then I pressed the swage through, and I noticed that when you draw you do get a smoother too if you can anchor the tube at the fat end. This means you knock the swage into the end of the tube and then Cross Pin that end of the tube so that you can draw the swage from the other end with a long threaded rod.
 
Thank you nitesite and dieselmudder.

I think you guys are being too kind though. I'm just a tightwad. LOL
 
I guess I'm just a cheapskate too.

Here I'm making Tools in order to make parts out of leftovers, in order to convert an old boat.

My buddy Bobby knows that I have the money and he told me, "You know, the average guy just would have just gone out and bought a Better Boat.

He doesn't have the patience and time either. Also he doesn't think this kind of stuff is much fun. I've been doing it long enough that I really don't know any other way.
 
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