Shotshell loading question

[John A.]

Just getting started into shotshell loading and wanted to ask a question. I think I know the answer, but wanted to ask here to verify first (the only stupid question is the one I don't ask--right?)

I am using a particular set of components and my question concerns mostly the wad.

When loaded, the shot appears to be ever so slightly higher/taller than the wad cup. I know the cups are for the 1-1/8 oz shot that I am loading into them, but I wanted to ask if this is alright or if I need to try a different 1-1/8 oz shot bushing in case this one was slightly oversize when they pulled it from the mold or something or if this is entirely OK.

Also, the crimp pushes in slightly too far and the shot rattles when it is shaken. I assume that I need to place a felt wad under the shot cup/wad to raise it up a little higher in the hull and that would be OK without affecting pressure?

Or should I use two overshot cards stacked to make up the difference over top of the shot?

I'm just trying to find out which is the best/preferred method to proceed.

 

[oli700]

looks like the shot column is too short, too far under the crimp line .
I wouldn't worry about the shot it looks OK but a touch full. Instead of messing with your bushing just weigh the payload and see what it is giving you.
I wouldn't put anything between the shot column and powder.
Felt , paper cards and nitro cards shouldn't effect pressure.
Load one the way it is and one with overshot cards and pattern them

 

[MikeD]

Due to variations in hull length you may get some variation from one brand to another. I would frequently get some that rattle a bit more than others, but I was also loading 7/8 oz 12g rounds for skeet so I did not have much selection of wads for light of a charge.

Did you weight the shot charge? It's possible that it is off but I would not just change the bushing without confirming it.

Also make sure are not compressing the wad as you seat it. With some of the designs it is easy to do without a lot of pressure.

It's been a while since I loaded shotgun shells but that's what popped into my head.

 

[John A.]

Thank you both for the replies.

I loaded a few with the clear plastic overshot card that I use for the roll crimp on my slugs and didn't get a very good crimp. The plastic overshot card is a little too thick and they tried to open back up on me overnight so I replaced the card with paper, which is considerably thinner.



I cut the paper overshot cards from an old notebook cover and it seemed like a really good crimp and no more rattle than a factory shell so that looks like what I will use with this load recipe. Although to make my life more simple, I am going to order some overshot cards. I need some more clear plastic ones anyway.



I won't be able to shoot any until at least the weekend to see how they do.

And I weighed a series of shot charges to satisfy curiousity.

I got 1.114 oz on average (some a touch more or less depending), but that is just about spot on to 1-1/8 oz loads which converted to decimal is 1.125 so I'm going to call it good there.

I guess I'm just being overly cautious and my OCD is showing.

 

[oli700]

I guess I'm just being overly cautious and my OCD is showing.

remain that way at all times during reloading

 

[John A.]

I just don't wanna screw up and hurt myself or someone else.

I know how easy a pressure spike can be caused even with a factory load that has been pushed back into the casing and I've seen enough pictures online of barrels that look like they were a peeled banana and receivers and mags that have fragged themselves all over the place and I just don't want that to be me or someone I love.

I know that many of you have a lot more experience than I do in this area and when I have a question or doubt, I feel a lot better about it if I just ask instead of second guessing myself so I know for sure and more importantly so I don't do a stupid mistake that could've been prevented.

I figured that I just needed to do an overshot card, but I wanted to ask, and I appreciate you guys for taking the time to look over things and help me out.

 

[MikeD]

Being OCD during the reloading process is NEVER a bad thing.

 

[John A.]

Was able to test out the reloaded shells today. They seem to be very similar to the factory sts handicap loads.

 

[MikeD]

Looks good John

 

[John A.]

I think they'll be alright for a "low brass" handicap load.

I also have some versatite wads I'd like to try. But they'll probably have some wallop to them. I don't remember how many grains of longshot the recipe calls for, but I think it's around 29 gr but that number may be a little off because I'm not looking at the paper. But I do remember the load data said the velocity was 1530 fps. That's really moving for a 1-1/8 oz hunting load. I shouldn't have any problem reaching the top of those tall hickory's and white oaks with them.

 

[MikeD]

I think they'll be alright for a "low brass" handicap load.

I have gotten into many a "discussion" at the range over my "high brass" reloads.

I would save my heavy field load hulls and just reload them as light skeet loads but the range kids would freak out when they saw the high brass hulls.

 

[John A.]

I'll be honest, up until fairly recently (in the last year I guess), I thought the height of the brass determined how much powder (how powerful-or not) a shell was.

I was entirely wrong. And had been wrong about that basically my whole life. I admit it.

Even this small 17.0 gr powder charge fills the hull up taller than where the top of the low brass rim is.

Go figure.

I have now learned the real reason behind high brass was because way back when paper hulls were being used exclusively, to help aid in extraction because with the powder at the time would often burn the paper hull so bad that the brass would sometimes separate if left smoldering in the chamber for a while.

But now with fast burning and smokeless powder combined with a plastic hull, it would be possible for the manufacturers to do away with high brass altogether from a reliability and extraction viewpoint, but due to because of those people like me that are wrong about "high/low brass", the consumer (albeit mistakenly) won't allow it.

Still though, when I go into a store to buy factory shells, it's good to see which have high and low brass because they are loading the high brass shells hotter than the low brass. Not necessarily because they have to, but my reply has now gone full circle.

 

[nitesite]

I confess... I still like to see high-brass ammo when I am loading my gun for certain hunting applications, even tho' in the back of my mind I know that the same performance can be achieved in a GOOD modern plastic hull loaded using a low-brass hull containing the same primer/powder/wad combination as the Hi-Brass factory load.

 

[John A.]

I'm not against high brass hulls either.

But rest well knowing I can use either or.