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wood stock finishing

dieselmudder

dieselmudder

.30-06
Elite Member
"Philanthropist"
I know @ripjack13 or @John A. could probably help me out here. I got a new Remington 11-87 for Christmas. Wood furniture which i wanted. My question is can i get that beautiful deep shiny luster on the factory finish, without stripping or sanding? Seems Tru Oil is the go to for refinishing, but can it be added to existing finish?
 
Nope. It'll just flake, chip or peel off.
You need to remove the shine. You can use steel wool for this.
 
Hmm...have you ever refinished anything wood? Try on a practise piece of wood if you can. If you go to deep it acts like sandpaper and removes the stain too. Tru-oil is for direct application to wood. That's the point of the stuff. (Not sanding to bare wood makes no sense on any level.) Applying over an existing finish is not recommended. I would Just sand down to bare wood. It's not hard or complicated, and you'll get satisfactory results.
 
A small S/S wire brush should be good. Hold on. Lemme get a pic.
 
Okay, simple enough, ive got one or two of those laying around. Avoid chemical strippers?
 
I have never had good results with stripper other than on synthetic parts. I'm impatient when it comes to refinishing, so I've tried and FAILED many times to skip over the detailed sanding work. But really, there's no good way around it. Starting with a clean slate i.e bare wood will yield the best results!

Oh... and I've built up tru-oil to a supper glossy finish, just takes a quite a few coats.
 
I have never heard of Tru Oil before, but then I have about zero training as a woodworker or gunsmith.

Is it similar to linseed oil in finishing?
 
CaddmannQ said:
I have never heard of Tru Oil before, but then I have about zero training as a woodworker or gunsmith.

Is it similar to linseed oil in finishing?
Click to expand...

Tru-Oil is made by Birchwood and is pretty cheap. To be honest, I'm not sure what it's made of, but it's not natural. It has distillates and synthetic additives to allow it to cure pretty quickly. You can build it up to almost a lacquer finish.
 
I"ve had good luck with Formby's and Howard's finishing/refinishing products, and I've shot lots of poly & lacquer from different makers building skateboards.

But I have no clue what gun finishers use other than boiled linseed oil. My 1970's Mossberg appears to have an acrylic finish, but hard to say.

No clue what's on my silver 464 either. Looks like low sheen lacquer over epoxy filled plywood.
 
^^^^correct....

'Tru-Oil' is made from a mixture of 56% mineral paint thinners, 33% oil varnish and 11% linseed or Tung oil. The exact specification of the components are, of course, a trade secret.
 
ripjack13 said:
^^^^correct....

'Tru-Oil' is made from a mixture of 56% mineral paint thinners, 33% oil varnish and 11% linseed or Tung oil. The exact specification of the components are, of course, a trade secret.
Click to expand...

This almost sounds like the recipe for Formby's refinisher, except that also has some lacquer thinner to dissolve the old paint or varnish.

I'very had good luck with that stuff, but not the version for poly finishes.

Doesn't work worth beans on polyurethane. For polyurethane I always scrape and sand.
 
So heres a decent picture of what im working with. Definitely not a high gloss finish

edacbb7c0db5874848b504a832c4c34e.jpg



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And i found this little crack. Will i have success gluing it?


69055c927ee405c0ab4c68cff36a6c64.jpg


I got tru-oil today. I think i want to do this. Just really nervous because detail and finish work is not my thing.
 
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