I Just Joined the Club
- Thread starter hombre243
- Start date
hombre243
.30-06
I did notice this and it has to do with the screw that holds the cap on the magazine tube.
I did not know the forend is drilled for the barrel to slide through. This is where a lot of binding is taking place. Notice that when the screw that holds the cap in the end of the ammo tube is tightened, the tube is pushed out from the barrel. This binds the stock.
I noticed that when the stock is slid forward and the screw is tightened the stock is very hard to slide back into its' position nearest the receiver. Loosen the screw and the stock slides easily.
If that screw seats too deeply there has to be a lot of pressure placed on the muzzle area and can explain the stringing as the barrel heats up. I am with CADD, I think I will grind off the tip of the screw, or just only screw it in part way and add some Guntite (blue) to hold the screw in place.
I did not know the forend is drilled for the barrel to slide through. This is where a lot of binding is taking place. Notice that when the screw that holds the cap in the end of the ammo tube is tightened, the tube is pushed out from the barrel. This binds the stock.
I noticed that when the stock is slid forward and the screw is tightened the stock is very hard to slide back into its' position nearest the receiver. Loosen the screw and the stock slides easily.
If that screw seats too deeply there has to be a lot of pressure placed on the muzzle area and can explain the stringing as the barrel heats up. I am with CADD, I think I will grind off the tip of the screw, or just only screw it in part way and add some Guntite (blue) to hold the screw in place.
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hombre243
.30-06
Caddmann,
I got the buttstock off and I checked out the hammer spring. Nice and clean, working smoothly. I also took a look at the magazine tube and looking at it square from the bottom, I see that the screw that holds the cap on to keep the spring in the tube was off center to the right (looking at it from the bottom) This extra pressure may be a cause of stringing. And you did mention you thought this could be a cause, as did Paco Kelly. I got a punch as near the size as the hole in the underside of the barrel and twisted the tube as near as I could towards the left and centered the screw best as I could feel. I think you mentioned you whittled down the end of the screw to eliminate the binding. I think I will keep this the size it is and just see what happens. I found that I have to remove the front sight to remove the forend stock so I will save that for another day. I have a filler for the dovetail but I don't want to mess with it yet. Maybe later. I am not using the iron sights any way.
The fire lapping kit is due today and is out for delivery. But I don't want to try that remedy until I see how well I screwed it up, or unscrewed it ...know what I mean? I think that cockeyed tube may be part of the problem. When it comes to heat and metal, combining the 2 always means expansion somewhere and I think if these barrels were made a bit thicker it would help a lot.
We shall see.
I got the buttstock off and I checked out the hammer spring. Nice and clean, working smoothly. I also took a look at the magazine tube and looking at it square from the bottom, I see that the screw that holds the cap on to keep the spring in the tube was off center to the right (looking at it from the bottom) This extra pressure may be a cause of stringing. And you did mention you thought this could be a cause, as did Paco Kelly. I got a punch as near the size as the hole in the underside of the barrel and twisted the tube as near as I could towards the left and centered the screw best as I could feel. I think you mentioned you whittled down the end of the screw to eliminate the binding. I think I will keep this the size it is and just see what happens. I found that I have to remove the front sight to remove the forend stock so I will save that for another day. I have a filler for the dovetail but I don't want to mess with it yet. Maybe later. I am not using the iron sights any way.
The fire lapping kit is due today and is out for delivery. But I don't want to try that remedy until I see how well I screwed it up, or unscrewed it ...know what I mean? I think that cockeyed tube may be part of the problem. When it comes to heat and metal, combining the 2 always means expansion somewhere and I think if these barrels were made a bit thicker it would help a lot.
We shall see.
hombre243
.30-06
Here is an interesting article about "breaking in" and caring for a rifle barrel.
http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/How+To+Break+In+a+Rifle+Barrel.html
http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/How+To+Break+In+a+Rifle+Barrel.html
I was getting some unreliable strikes but I think it had more to do with poor quality ammunition. I have had too many primer failures in all calibers.
Not the reloads, but factory loads. Reload primers have been 100% good so far.
Anyhow I increased the spring pressure, before I shot those last 2 targets I posted.
I'm not sure if it affected the stringing.
Not the reloads, but factory loads. Reload primers have been 100% good so far.
Anyhow I increased the spring pressure, before I shot those last 2 targets I posted.
I'm not sure if it affected the stringing.
I don't remember whittling on that screw I think I might have said that I diddled with it, meaning that I tried to straighten it out as you did.
Mine was on crooked as well, and I noticed that the first time I disassembled the gun.
Mine was on crooked as well, and I noticed that the first time I disassembled the gun.
I thought the hammer spring and the hammer mechanism looked pretty good, but I didn't like the look of that stamp metal link to connect the spring to the Hammer.
I don't know what Mossberg calls it but it's the rebound link. That lets the hammer striking and pushes it back a bit.
I tweaked around with that link a little bit trying to get better strikes with less Hammer pressure, sacrificing some of the rebound travel in the process.
After a series of unreliable strikes I put it all back as close to the stock configuration as possible.
But two things occur to me.
First that link that connects the spring to the Hammer is crude. I dressed it off a little bit, but I'd like to make a sturdier one. Its contact with the spring, and the springs contact with the tail of the receiver, are both sort of tenuous.
That link is one of the cheapest parts of the gun and it certainly looks it.
Second, several of those bad strikes were eventually proved to be due to poor primers. I get a flyer every now and then when I shouldn't and I'm starting to suspect that primer may have a lot to do with it.
I don't know what Mossberg calls it but it's the rebound link. That lets the hammer striking and pushes it back a bit.
I tweaked around with that link a little bit trying to get better strikes with less Hammer pressure, sacrificing some of the rebound travel in the process.
After a series of unreliable strikes I put it all back as close to the stock configuration as possible.
But two things occur to me.
First that link that connects the spring to the Hammer is crude. I dressed it off a little bit, but I'd like to make a sturdier one. Its contact with the spring, and the springs contact with the tail of the receiver, are both sort of tenuous.
That link is one of the cheapest parts of the gun and it certainly looks it.
Second, several of those bad strikes were eventually proved to be due to poor primers. I get a flyer every now and then when I shouldn't and I'm starting to suspect that primer may have a lot to do with it.
hombre243
.30-06
Well, whittle or diddle, I knew you mentioned something about it. Now that I have you here, how do you remove the magazine tube from the receiver?
I never did. I just pulled the plug and brushed out the rust with oil. Then I hit it all with WD-40 & 90psi compressed air.
I was going to blue the inside of the tube, but instead I just swabbed it well with anti-corrosion oil and patches.
I was going to blue the inside of the tube, but instead I just swabbed it well with anti-corrosion oil and patches.
hombre243
.30-06
I could move the tube up about 1/8" and twist it about double the width of the screw hole in the barrel where the screw holds the cap on. But I can't figure out how to get the tube out and I won't be tearing the rifle down to find out. O well...
I have been trying to get to the range but now doc says I have COPD and I have to use inhalers. Also, he says my testosterone levels are way too low so I have to start replacement medication. He said that alone can give me all the symptoms I have...lazy/fatigued; low concentration; lack of energy; bone mass loss; excessive weight gain; loss of muscle and strength ... and I have felt this way for several years. My head says "go to the range, have fun, go do laundry, but my body just refuses to go except when I know i absolutely have to.
Maybe the new treatment will help. But, tomorrow i will try to force myself to go to the range. I have not shot the rifle since i used the J&B and have not shot the grit treated bullets either. So, I have my work cut out for me.
hombre243
.30-06
I will look...
hombre243
.30-06
I smoked from the age of 17 until 52, so 35 years. I have some percentage of lung obstruction but it's small and I have large lungs. I am hoping that I have dodged the bullet on things like COPD and emphysema.
My pop died from cancer at 73 and it was in his lungs, his organs, his bones . . . everything.
But nobody in my mom's family seems to die from smoking and they all did it, so perhaps I will be luckier than my dad.
My pop died from cancer at 73 and it was in his lungs, his organs, his bones . . . everything.
But nobody in my mom's family seems to die from smoking and they all did it, so perhaps I will be luckier than my dad.
If I were going to build a tube feed gun into a Target gun, I might skeletonize the mag tube to reduce beam strength in relation to the barrel.
But the rod & coil spring stiffness is also a factor & it is a changing spring tension as rounds feed.
Everything Changes a bit with each shot fired, including the perceived recoil of the gun. Variable recoil means variable shot placement.
Of course I notice this a lot more on the .30-30 that on the twenty two's.
But the rod & coil spring stiffness is also a factor & it is a changing spring tension as rounds feed.
Everything Changes a bit with each shot fired, including the perceived recoil of the gun. Variable recoil means variable shot placement.
Of course I notice this a lot more on the .30-30 that on the twenty two's.
hombre243
.30-06
Just got back from the range and it was an ok day. I zeroed the sights for 50 yards after firing several different loads. Best of the bunch were a toss up between 30,0 grains and 30.5 grains of IMR 4064. 170 grain Speer HCFN. (hot core flat nose) I will remember that target next trip to the car so I can post it. I fired 6 shots @ 50 yards and the first 2 were bullseyes. The next 4 strung down to the left about 2-3 inches from that. I just guesses...the group/string may be longer. This is the exact opposite from before and it is because of the hotter barrel per shot.
I also fired 5 125 grain hollow point flat nose from Sierra also but that group did not look good. About 4" at 50 yards but, it was a random pick for a powder charge...none were loaded at incremental powder charges for testing. The group was uniform though. I think it will shrink with more or less powder. That will have to wait.
I think the 170s are going to be ok. I have to figure out what the stringing is from. I think it is the screw on the magazine tube.
A new problem popped up. The feed tube spring is weak the first 3 rounds, then I can feel it tighten up. Only the first round chambers properly. After the first the rifle has to be pointed up and the cartridge falls into position on the ramp. But it is not feeding properly either. I have to cycle the lever a couple times to get it to work. It worked much better with all the factory crap in the receiver.
It will make an attractive canoe paddle. Problem is Now I need a canoe.
I also fired 5 125 grain hollow point flat nose from Sierra also but that group did not look good. About 4" at 50 yards but, it was a random pick for a powder charge...none were loaded at incremental powder charges for testing. The group was uniform though. I think it will shrink with more or less powder. That will have to wait.
I think the 170s are going to be ok. I have to figure out what the stringing is from. I think it is the screw on the magazine tube.
A new problem popped up. The feed tube spring is weak the first 3 rounds, then I can feel it tighten up. Only the first round chambers properly. After the first the rifle has to be pointed up and the cartridge falls into position on the ramp. But it is not feeding properly either. I have to cycle the lever a couple times to get it to work. It worked much better with all the factory crap in the receiver.
It will make an attractive canoe paddle. Problem is Now I need a canoe.
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It's good to hear you could get out to shoot.
It sounds like the feed tube is rough inside or the spring is.
I put a brass brush on a drill motor, and burnished the inside of the feed tubes, on all my guns, with oil.
I haven't blued the insides, so they get patched and oiled after each outing.
It sounds like the feed tube is rough inside or the spring is.
I put a brass brush on a drill motor, and burnished the inside of the feed tubes, on all my guns, with oil.
I haven't blued the insides, so they get patched and oiled after each outing.
hombre243
.30-06
I think I got gunk on the end of the plastic piece. Probably the J-B. It worked perfectly before the cleaning.
I am not so worried about that. Like you, I think it just needs a little cleaning.