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What lumen light is best for HD?

oli700 said:
I think this may be the second time I have discussed this with Gunny and before that I can remember really ever debating it.......I am not debating anything really, I know the right answer for me.....
I am asking these guys serious questions because I want to hear the thoughts of folks like Nite and Gunny who have been officially trained.......well I am starting to suspect Gunny is getting some training from facebook or Wikipedia lol

Alaska ?......what do you want to bet I have spent more time in the Alaska back country than you :) ?

and I don't remember the sun ever going down in the summer, but all my time was spent quite a bit farther North than your nice little tropical island :p
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That depends on what you consider back country ;) I've been here four years now... with at least one more to go (although I've got plans in mind that might make me permanent!)... but yes, I wouldn't doubt your "Frontier" time has been more than mine.... and even on my Tropical Island (sure feels that way when it's 70 and sunny here!) the light never fully goes away, there's always a bit of twilight towards the north
 
My kitchen is right off of the 2-car garage. The kitchen is totally opposite from our bedrooms and living areas.

It is full of light 24/7 so if I sense trouble (at the opposite end of the one story house) and I maybe don't have perfect illuminated ID but I pretty much would know that it is not my 16-y/o son or my wife.

That is why I suggested night lights. Not so much throughout the house but properly located to backlight an intruder.

Great questions, oli700.... you made me back up and re-think my first response.
 
In the interest of full disclosure, let it be known that I have no training of any kind. :oops:

I keep the house as dark as possible (blinds closed, no "night-lights") to make it as difficult to see in the dark as possible should a BG make an unwelcome entrance. He'll need a flashlight to see.

I definitely believe in having various levels of protection. The house is alarmed, has two protective dogs inside that alert me to any irregularities, as well as door braces to give me plenty of time to reach the weapons (which are actually very close).

I have a shotgun for HD on which I have a 250 lumen light installed. I also have a "sporting" rifle with a 500 lumen light installed. Although the 250 lumen is pretty darn bright, the 500 lumen is truly blinding. The intent is for me to have full visibility of my target so that I know exactly what I'm shooting at while the BG will have to attack in the direction of a blinding light. :cool:

You can get a 3-pack of the 250 lumen lights at Costco for $15-20 + tax. That light has so far handled about 200 rounds of 00 and slugs without missing a beat. And at a cost of about $5/each they're easily replaced should they fail. If you make the jump to 500 lumens, it'll set you back about $65. I have tactical flashlights from FourSevens, StreamLight, and Olight and they are all top quality. Although the Costco lights are a great value, when you get yourself a top quality light you notice the difference.

Features that I prefer in the flashlight are instant access to max lumens and strobe, as well as the capability of momentary on.

So in a nutshell, what lumen light is best for HD? There probably isn't any one that is best. It's purely subjective. IMHO, 200 lumen is a minimum, while 400-600 is ideal. I have yet to see a light the was too bright when I'm not on the receiving end of it. ;)
 
It seems like there are two questions:

1. Should the OP have a light on his gun?
2. What should he do if there is an intruder in the house?

Having a light doesn't mean you have to use it. If you can see well enough in ambient light, maybe that's enough. Of course, I'd want a really good identification on my target. You don't want to shoot your own kid sneaking back from a date by accident. I don't recommend shooting her boyfriend sneaking out the window. Having the light gives you an option if ambient light isn't enough. Remember: you can't shoot what you can't see.

As for the second question, my understanding is that clearing a building by yourself is generally a bad idea. The best plan may be just to call 911 and stay in a room. If they come in, I guess that's when the weapon light kicks in if there isn't enough ambient light for clear identification.

Also note that lumens can be inflated. Don't go by the number alone.

A highly-regarded firearms instructor recommends the KISS principle when it comes to flashlights. If I recall, he says something to the effect of: the light should only have one on setting. The only other setting it should have is off. In a stressful situation you don't be able to cycle through six settings to get to the one you want.
 
I have a weapon-mounted light Armytek Predator 670 lumens but I choose the mode according to the situation, usually it is 200 lm.
 
Whatever lumens you choose, get a light that has a lot of spill and flood.... and certainly isn't a pencil-thin beam good beyond 100-yards.

And DON'T get some dipshit light that you press and cycle thru LO-MED-HI-STROBE-RED-BLUE-WHITE-RARE-MEDIUM-WELL DONE-DISCO BALL settings. Those light may be inexpensive and their lumen numbers seem attractive but you need a light that has two switch positions: OFF and ON.

Wide FLOOD and Off/On. That's it. Those two features are more important than lumen numbers (numbers which vary so much between manufacturers that except for weapon-grade lights costing hundreds are totally meaningless). Keep it totally SIMPLE.
 
nitesite said:
And DON'T get some dipshit light that you press and cycle thru LO-MED-HI-STROBE-RED-BLUE-WHITE-RARE-MEDIUM-WELL DONE-DISCO BALL settings. Those light may be inexpensive and their lumen numbers seem attractive but you need a light that has two switch positions: OFF and ON.
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'Nuf said :cool:
 
nitesite said:
Whatever lumens you choose, get a light that has a lot of spill and flood.... and certainly isn't a pencil-thin beam good beyond 100-yards.

And DON'T get some dipshit light that you press and cycle thru LO-MED-HI-STROBE-RED-BLUE-WHITE-RARE-MEDIUM-WELL DONE-DISCO BALL settings. Those light may be inexpensive and their lumen numbers seem attractive but you need a light that has two switch positions: OFF and ON.

Wide FLOOD and Off/On. That's it. Those two features are more important than lumen numbers (numbers which vary so much between manufacturers that except for weapon-grade lights costing hundreds are totally meaningless). Keep it totally SIMPLE.
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Do you have one you recommend?
 
Nitesite nailed it!!

Don't go too bright as it is easy to blind yourself. You need enough to ID a target, not light up a stadium.
 
Omidh44 said:
nitesite said:
Whatever lumens you choose, get a light that has a lot of spill and flood.... and certainly isn't a pencil-thin beam good beyond 100-yards.

And DON'T get some dipshit light that you press and cycle thru LO-MED-HI-STROBE-RED-BLUE-WHITE-RARE-MEDIUM-WELL DONE-DISCO BALL settings. Those light may be inexpensive and their lumen numbers seem attractive but you need a light that has two switch positions: OFF and ON.

Wide FLOOD and Off/On. That's it. Those two features are more important than lumen numbers (numbers which vary so much between manufacturers that except for weapon-grade lights costing hundreds are totally meaningless). Keep it totally SIMPLE.
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Do you have one you recommend?
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How much are you looking to spend? The TLR1 is a pretty great all-around performer. I've got an Elzetta ZFM-60 hanging on my 590. I've also used 4sevens lights with great sucess... all of wich have been mounted to weapons with no issues.
 
aksavanaman said:
How much are you looking to spend? The TLR1 is a pretty great all-around performer.
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I have a TLR1 on my EDC, it's a great light.
 
TLR-1 is HANDS DOWN the best weapon grade light in its price range/ Potted electronics are necessary in a heavy recoiling weapon and the Streamlight has them. Professional grade stuff and affordable.
 
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